King size murphy beds wallbeds: Why you probably shouldn't buy one (and what to do if you must)

King size murphy beds wallbeds: Why you probably shouldn't buy one (and what to do if you must)

Honestly, the dream of a king size murphy bed wallbed is usually better than the reality. You’re scrolling through Instagram or Pinterest, and you see these gorgeous, seamless cabinets that magically transform a home office into a luxury master suite. It looks like a James Bond gadget for interior design. But here is the thing: physics is a jerk. A king-size mattress is massive, heavy, and awkward, and trying to fold that much surface area into a wall presents a set of engineering challenges that most people aren't prepared for.

Most people settle for a queen because it's the industry standard. It's easier. But if you’re 6'4" or you share a bed with a partner who kicks in their sleep, a queen just isn't going to cut it. You need the 76 inches of width that only a king provides.

Can you get a king size murphy bed wallbed? Yes. Should you? Well, that depends on how much you value your floor space versus how much you're willing to sweat every time you make the bed.

The mechanical reality of king size murphy beds wallbeds

Let's talk weight. A high-quality king-size memory foam mattress, like a Tempur-Pedic or a Saava, can easily weigh between 100 and 150 pounds. Now, add the weight of the wooden frame, the piston system, and the cabinetry itself. You are looking at a moving object that weighs as much as a small motorcycle.

If the tension isn't dialed in perfectly, that bed is either going to be a nightmare to pull down or, worse, it’s going to try to slam shut like a giant wooden mouth while you’re changing the sheets. Most manufacturers, such as Wilding Wallbeds or Murphy Wall-Beds Hardware, use either a spring-lift mechanism or a gas-piston system. Pistons are generally smoother and quieter, but springs are easier to adjust over time as the mattress sags or if you change to a heavier bedding set.

You also have to consider the "footprint" when the bed is down. A standard king mattress is 80 inches long. Once you add the cabinet depth, you’re looking at nearly 7.5 to 8 feet of room extension. If your room is only 10 feet wide, you’ve basically created a wall-to-wall carpet of mattress. There’s no walking around it. You're crawling over it.

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That’s the trade-off.

Horizontal vs. Vertical: The orientation debate

You have two choices here. You can go vertical (the bed sticks straight out from the wall) or horizontal (the bed runs along the wall).

Vertical is the traditional look. It feels like a real bed. You can have nightstands on either side. But it requires high ceilings—usually at least 8 feet—and a lot of clearance into the room. If you have a ceiling fan, forget about it. You’ll be decapitating your fan blades every time you get ready for sleep.

Horizontal king size murphy beds wallbeds—sometimes called "side-tilt" beds—are the secret weapon for rooms with low ceilings or narrow walkways. Because the bed opens along its long axis, it only sticks out about 6 feet into the room instead of 8. The downside? If you're sleeping on the "inside" (closest to the wall), you have to climb over your partner to go to the bathroom at 3 AM. It’s not ideal for long-term use, but it’s a lifesaver for guest rooms in basements or attic conversions.

Why the mattress choice actually matters (and usually ruins the bed)

You can't just throw any mattress on a murphy bed. This is where people mess up.

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Most murphy bed cabinets are designed for a maximum mattress thickness of 11 to 12 inches. If you bought that ultra-plush 15-inch pillow-top mattress from the local showroom, the bed simply won't close. Or, if you force it, you'll put so much pressure on the mounting brackets that you’ll pull the whole unit out of the studs.

Then there's the "slumping" issue. When a mattress sits vertically for 23 hours a day, gravity takes a toll. The internal coils or foam layers can shift toward the bottom (which is the foot of the bed when it's closed). After six months, you end up with a bed that has a massive lump at your feet and nothing but fabric at your head.

To avoid this, you need a mattress that is "murphy-approved." Look for:

  • High-density foam that keeps its shape.
  • Hybrid mattresses with reinforced edge support.
  • Strategic use of "mattress straps" (those velcro belts that look a bit like car seatbelts) to keep the mattress hugged tight to the frame while it's upright.

Installation isn't a DIY project for the faint of heart

Don't let the YouTube tutorials fool you. Installing a king size murphy bed wallbed is a two-person job, minimum. You are anchoring a massive lever to your wall. If you miss the studs, or if you're anchoring into metal studs without the proper blocking, you are creating a genuine safety hazard.

In 2018, there were several recalls related to wall beds that weren't properly anchored. These things can and will pull away from the wall if they aren't secured into solid wood or masonry. Most professional installers will charge anywhere from $500 to $1,200 for the labor alone, and frankly, it's money well spent for the peace of mind.

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The "Making the Bed" Struggle

This is the one thing nobody talks about. Making a king-size bed is already a workout. Now, try doing it when you can’t get to the head of the mattress because it’s tucked inside a wooden box.

You’ll find yourself tucking in sheets while hovering in a half-squat. Pro tip: use duvet covers and fitted sheets with extra-deep pockets. Better yet, look into Beddy’s or similar zipper-based bedding systems. They allow you to "zip" the bed shut, which keeps everything tidy and prevents the blankets from bunching up at the bottom of the cabinet when you fold it away.

Real-world alternatives

If the idea of a king size murphy bed wallbed is starting to sound like a headache, there are other ways to get that big-sleep-small-room vibe.

Some people opt for a "slat-bed" drawer system, where the bed slides under a raised platform (like a home office area). This requires zero heavy lifting and lets you use any mattress thickness you want. Others go for high-end sleeper sofas like the American Leather Comfort Sleeper, which uses a patented mechanism that doesn't have those miserable metal bars in your back.

But if you are dead set on the Murphy? Go for it. Just go in with your eyes open.

Practical Steps for Your Project:

  1. Measure your "Sweep": Clear the room and mark the floor with painter's tape exactly where the bed will land. Walk around it. If you can't open the door or reach the closet, the king is too big.
  2. Check your Studs: Use a high-quality stud finder to ensure you have at least three solid wood studs available where the cabinet will mount. If you have metal studs, you must install wood blocking behind the drywall first.
  3. Verify Ceiling Height: For a vertical king, you need a minimum of 89–92 inches of vertical clearance. Measure in three different spots; floors are rarely perfectly level.
  4. Choose the Mattress First: Don't buy the bed and then hunt for a mattress. Find an 11-inch thick king mattress you actually like, then buy the bed frame that fits those specific dimensions.
  5. Budget for Hardware: Cheap hardware kits from overseas often use inferior alloys that snap under the weight of a king mattress. Stick to reputable brands like Lori Bed (for a no-mechanism lift) or Rockler for DIY kits.

Buying a king size murphy bed wallbed is about reclaiming your home's square footage without sacrificing your sleep quality. It’s a luxury solution to a space problem, provided you don't skimp on the mechanics.