King Kong Action Figures: Why Some Collections Are Worth More Than a Car

King Kong Action Figures: Why Some Collections Are Worth More Than a Car

Collectors are weird. We spend hundreds, sometimes thousands, on plastic apes because they remind us of a movie we saw when we were five. But honestly, King Kong action figures are a different beast entirely compared to your average superhero toys. Ever since 1933, that big gorilla has been a licensing nightmare and a goldmine at the same time. You’ve got different studios owning different versions of the character, which means the "best" Kong isn't always the one you'd expect.

The Messy History of Kong Plastic

Most people think of the 2005 Peter Jackson movie or the recent Godzilla vs. Kong flicks when they start hunting. But the real rabbit hole starts much earlier. Back in the day, Mego—the king of 1970s action figures—tried their hand at a Kong. It was... something. It looked more like a hairy man in a suit than the Eighth Wonder of the World. Yet, if you find one in a crisp box today, you’re looking at a serious paycheck.

The licensing is where things get truly funky. RKO originally owned the rights, then Universal got involved, and then there’s the estate of Merian C. Cooper. This legal spaghetti is why we have so many "generic" giant apes that aren't technically Kong, even though we all know who they are.

If you’re looking for the absolute pinnacle of the craft, you have to talk about S.H. MonsterArts. Bandai’s premium line doesn't mess around. Their King Kong action figures are basically articulated statues. They use actual 3D scans from the movies. They’re expensive. They’re fragile. If you drop one, you’ll probably cry. But the range of motion is insane. You can actually recreate the jaw-snapping scene from the 2005 film with terrifying accuracy.

The NECA Era and Why It Matters

For a long time, there was a massive gap in the market. You either had cheap toys for kids or $200 imports for "serious" collectors. Then NECA stepped in. They started releasing these "Illustrated" versions of Kong that weren't based on a specific movie, but rather the vibe of the original 1933 posters and the Joe DeVito artwork.

They’re chunky. They’re heavy. They feel like they could actually break a window.

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What’s cool about NECA is they realized collectors love accessories. They started packing in different heads—one roaring, one calm, one looking like he just stepped on a LEGO. They even included a tiny Fay Wray figure in some sets. It changed the game because it made high-end King Kong action figures accessible to people who didn't want to spend their entire rent on a hobby.

Scale is Everything

Size matters. In the world of giant monsters (or kaiju, if you want to sound fancy), scale is the biggest headache. If you buy a 6-inch Godzilla and a 7-inch Kong, your shelf looks wrong. Godzilla should be bigger, right? Well, it depends on which movie you’re referencing. In the 1962 King Kong vs. Godzilla, they were roughly the same size. In the MonsterVerse, Kong had to go through a massive growth spurt to even stand a chance.

Mezco Toyz did an 18-inch Kong a few years back. It’s a literal monolith. It’s great for a centerpiece, but it’s a nightmare to dust. Most collectors eventually settle on the 6-to-8-inch range. It’s the "sweet spot" where you can still see the fur detail without needing a dedicated room for your collection.

Playmates vs. The Collectors

You’ve probably seen the Playmates toys at Target or Walmart. They’re bright, they have "battle damage" features where a piece of skin pops off to show red plastic underneath, and they’re indestructible. These aren't for the guys who talk about "paint applications" on Reddit. They’re for six-year-olds to bash against the bathtub.

And that's okay.

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Actually, it’s more than okay. These mass-market figures are what keep the brand alive. Without the kids buying the $10 "Roaring Kong," the companies like Prime 1 Studio wouldn't have the data to justify making a $2,000 resin statue. It’s a weird ecosystem where the "cheap" toys actually support the "elite" ones.

Identifying the Grails

If you’re hunting for value, you need to know about the 1964 Marx King Kong. It’s battery-operated. It walks. It beats its chest. It’s also incredibly rare to find in working condition because 60-year-old plastic gears tend to turn into dust.

Then there’s the McFarlane Toys version from the early 2000s. Todd McFarlane changed the toy industry by focusing on "sculpt over playability." His Kong was more of a diorama than a figure. It’s still highly sought after because the base—which features the V-Rex—is a work of art.

What to Look for in a Modern Figure

  1. Articulation: Can he beat his chest? If the arms don't have a double-jointed elbow, he’s going to look stiff.
  2. Paint Gradation: Look at the fur. Is it just solid black? Or are there hints of grey, brown, and "mud" mixed in? High-end King Kong action figures use "dry brushing" to make the fur look real.
  3. Joint Tightness: Kong is top-heavy. If the ankles are weak, he’s going to take a "shelf dive" and probably take out your glass shelf with him.
  4. Licensing Stamps: Check the bottom of the foot. If it says "Universal City Studios" or "Legendary," you’ve got a legitimate licensed piece.

The "MonsterVerse" Explosion

The recent movies have sparked a massive resurgence. We’re seeing companies like Hiya Toys enter the ring. They’re a smaller player, but their "Exquisite Basic" line is putting the bigger companies to shame. Their Kong figures have better proportions and more realistic skin textures than figures that cost twice as much.

It’s an arms race. One company releases a Kong with a glowing axe, so the next company has to release a Kong with a mechanical arm. We win. The collectors win.

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Honestly, the variety is staggering now. You can get a Kong that looks like a 1930s stop-motion puppet, a Kong that looks like a 1970s guy in a suit, or a Kong that looks like a modern CGI marvel.

How to Protect Your Investment

Stop putting your figures in direct sunlight. Seriously. UV rays are the enemy of plastic. It’ll turn your jet-black Kong into a weird, sickly purple in about six months. Also, keep the boxes if you have the space. I know, they’re bulky and annoying, but a "Mint in Box" (MIB) figure is always worth 40-60% more than a loose one.

If you do display them loose, use a soft makeup brush to dust them. Compressed air is okay, but it can actually push dust deeper into the joints. A big fluffy brush is the pro move.

Actionable Next Steps for Collectors

  • Audit your shelf space: Before buying that 18-inch Mezco, actually measure your shelf. These things are wider than they are tall because of the arm span.
  • Check "Sold" listings on eBay: Don't look at what people are asking for a 2005 Kong; look at what people actually paid. It’s usually much lower.
  • Join a community: Groups like the "Skull Island Collectors" or general Kaiju forums are where the real leaks happen. You’ll find out about pre-orders before they hit the big sites.
  • Prioritize S.H. MonsterArts for poseability: If you want to do toy photography, there is no substitute for their engineering.
  • Look at NECA for display: If you just want a cool-looking gorilla on your desk that won't break the bank, NECA is the gold standard for price-to-detail ratio.

The market for King Kong action figures isn't slowing down. With more movies on the horizon and a legacy that spans nearly a century, he’s the one character that never truly goes out of style. Whether he's fighting dinosaurs or giant lizards, Kong remains the undisputed king of the toy shelf. Just make sure you check those ankle joints before you walk away.