You've probably been there. You're looking at the cramped space behind the seat of your F-150 or under the trunk floor of a hatchback, and you realize a standard 12-inch ported box just isn't happening. It sucks. Usually, "shallow mount" is code for "sounds like a wet cardboard box." But the Kicker Comp RT 10 is kind of an anomaly in the car audio world. It’s thin. Like, really thin. We’re talking less than 3.5 inches of mounting depth. Usually, when you lose that much mass, you lose the soul of the bass. Honestly, though, Kicker figured out a way to keep the excursion high without making the magnet assembly poke out the back of your truck cab.
It’s not magic. It’s physics.
Most people see a slim sub and assume it’s a compromise. They think they’re trading "thump" for "space." With the Kicker Comp RT 10, that’s only half true. You are definitely saving space, but the output is surprisingly violent for something that looks like a dinner plate. This sub uses a unique forced-air cooling system that keeps it running 20% cooler than previous generations. If you’ve ever smelled a voice coil burning because you pushed a shallow sub too hard during a long summer drive, you know why that matters.
What’s Actually Under the Cone of the Kicker Comp RT 10?
Let's get into the weeds. The Kicker Comp RT 10 features an injection-molded polypropylene cone. It’s stiff. That’s important because when you have a shallow motor structure, any flex in the cone turns into distortion, and distortion is the enemy of a clean 808 drop.
One thing people get wrong is the power handling. Kicker rates the 10-inch CompRT at 400 watts RMS. Don't go throwing a 1,000-watt monoblock at this thing and expect it to survive a week. It won't. But if you feed it a clean, clipped-free 350 to 400 watts? It sings. The Santoprene surround is stitched directly to the cone. That's a classic Kicker move. It prevents the surround from delaminating when the air pressure inside a tiny sealed box gets intense.
Speaking of boxes, this sub is a sealed-box specialist. While you can port it, you’re basically defeating the purpose of buying a shallow driver. Put this in a 0.4 cubic foot sealed enclosure. It’s tiny. You could practically fit the box in a backpack. In that small air volume, the air acts like a spring, helping the sub snap back into place. This results in incredibly tight, punchy bass that’s perfect for rock, metal, or fast-paced electronic music. If you want that loose, wobbling "wind-in-your-hair" hair trick bass, buy a square Solo-Baric L7. This isn't that. This is about precision.
The Dual Voice Coil Setup and Wiring Realities
You have options here. The Kicker Comp RT 10 comes in both 1-ohm and 2-ohm dual voice coil (DVC) configurations.
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Choosing the right one is where most DIY installers mess up. If you have a single sub and a mono amplifier that is stable at 2 ohms, you want the Dual 1-ohm version. Why? Because you wire those coils in series to get a 2-ohm load. If you buy the Dual 2-ohm version and wire it in parallel, you’re at 1 ohm. If your amp isn't 1-ohm stable, it’s going into protect mode or turning into a very expensive space heater.
- Dual 1-Ohm: Best for single-sub setups on most mid-range amps.
- Dual 2-Ohm: Best if you’re running a pair of these subs to get a final 2-ohm load.
Kicker also includes a "re-cone" style build quality here. The tinsel leads are engineered to handle the high excursion. Since the cone has to move so much in such a small space, those wires take a beating. Kicker uses a "thick-stitch" method to keep them from snapping. It’s a small detail, but it’s the difference between a sub that lasts five years and one that rattles after five months.
Why Shallow Mount Subwoofers Usually Fail
Standard subwoofers have a deep "basket." This allows the magnet to be far away from the cone, giving the "spider"—that yellowish corrugated fabric—plenty of room to move up and down. Shallow subs like the Kicker Comp RT 10 don't have that luxury.
When you squash a subwoofer, the spider usually hits the magnet (bottoming out) or the cone can't move far enough to displace air. No air movement equals no bass. Kicker solved this by "offsetting" the move. They used a large-diameter spider and a specialized motor assembly that sits partially inside the cone area.
It’s clever engineering. Basically, they tucked the guts of the sub into itself.
There's a trade-off, though. Sensitivity. The CompRT 10 is rated at about 84.8 dB. That’s not "loud" by competition standards. A high-efficiency pro-audio speaker might be 95 dB. What this means for you is that you need those 400 watts. You can't run this off a weak head unit or a tiny 100-watt amp and expect to be impressed. It needs "juice" to overcome its physical limitations.
Real World Installation: Trucks and EVs
Truck owners are the primary demographic here. If you own a Silverado or a Tacoma, you know that the space behind the rear bench is basically a sliver of nothingness. The Kicker Comp RT 10 is one of the few 10s that can fit there without requiring you to move your seats forward and eat your knees.
But lately, there’s a new crowd: EV owners. Tesla Model 3 and Model Y owners are flocking to the CompRT. Why? Because EVs are incredibly sensitive to weight and space. You don't want a 80-pound MDF box in the trunk of a Tesla. You want a lightweight, fiberglass or thin-wall enclosure that fits in the sub-trunk. The CompRT’s shallow profile makes it the go-to for these "invisible" installs.
It adds the low-end frequency that factory premium systems (even the good ones) usually lack. Factory systems are great at "mid-bass"—that 60Hz to 100Hz punch. They suck at the "sub-bass"—the stuff below 40Hz that you feel in your chest. The CompRT 10 fills that gap perfectly.
Is the 10-inch Better Than the 12-inch CompRT?
Honestly, yeah. In the shallow-mount world, the 10-inch is often the "sweet spot."
The 12-inch version requires a bigger box, obviously. But the problem with shallow 12s is cone flex. A 12-inch cone has more surface area, and when you make it that thin and push it that hard, it can sometimes lose its "sharpness" compared to the 10. The Kicker Comp RT 10 is faster. It’s more "musical." If you’re listening to Double-Bass drumming in a Lamb of God track, the 10-inch is going to keep up way better than a shallow 12.
If you just want the lowest possible notes and you listen to nothing but slowed-down Reverb-Hose rap, maybe go for the 12. For everyone else? The 10 is the winner.
Comparing the CompRT to the CompVR and CompC
Don't confuse these.
The CompC is the entry-level, "I just want a little noise" sub.
The CompVR is the legendary "I'm 16 and want my mirrors to shake" sub.
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The CompRT is technically more "advanced" than both because it has to achieve the same results with half the physical depth. It actually costs more than the CompVR because the engineering required to make a shallow sub sound good is expensive. If you have the room for a full-sized sub, buy a CompVR or a Solo-Baric. They move more air. But if you are limited by your vehicle's interior, the CompRT is the premium solution. It’s not a "budget" sub; it’s a "space-saving" luxury sub.
Addressing the "Kicker Sound" Stigma
Some audiophile purists look down on Kicker. They call it "loud and muddy." Sorta unfair. That reputation comes from people putting Kicker subs in terrible, cheap, pre-fab ported boxes from big-box retailers.
If you put a Kicker Comp RT 10 in a high-quality, braced, sealed enclosure and give it a clean signal from a decent Class D amp, it sounds remarkably transparent. It doesn't have that "hollow" sound that cheap shallow subs (like the ones you find on random Amazon brands) tend to have. It’s a professional-grade driver.
Final Insights for Your Install
Before you go out and buy a Kicker Comp RT 10, check your amplifier's output at different ohms. This is the most common mistake. People buy a 500-watt amp, but that's the "Max" rating (which is a lie). Look for the RMS rating. Then, look at the ohm load.
If your amp does 400 watts RMS at 2 ohms, buy the Dual 1-ohm CompRT.
Also, don't forget the break-in period. These subs are stiff out of the box. The Santoprene surround needs a few hours of play-time to loosen up. If it sounds a little "thin" for the first two days, don't panic. Turn it up to moderate levels, play some bass-heavy tracks, and let the materials stretch. After about 10 hours of use, the resonant frequency will drop slightly, and it’ll sound much deeper.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Measure your depth: Ensure you have at least 3.5 inches of clearance inside your box. Most "truck boxes" are designed specifically for this measurement, but always double-check.
- Match your RMS: Pair the sub with an amp that delivers between 300 and 450 watts RMS. Anything less will be underwhelming; anything more is risky.
- Go Sealed: For the best performance out of a CompRT, stick to a sealed enclosure. Aim for a volume between 0.4 and 0.8 cubic feet.
- Check your wiring: Use at least 12-gauge speaker wire. Thin wire can resist the current and get hot, especially with the high-current demands of a 1-ohm or 2-ohm setup.
- Sound Deaden: Because this sub is often mounted against the back wall of a truck, it will vibrate the metal of your cab. Put a sheet of butyl-based sound deadener (like Dynamat or Hushmat) behind the sub box. It’ll make the bass sound twice as loud inside the truck.