You’ve probably seen the "XX" eyes staring back at you from a puffer jacket in a crowded subway or on a high-res Instagram post. Honestly, it’s hard to miss. When the KAWS x North Face jacket first dropped, it wasn't just another streetwear collab. It was a massive collision between high art and technical gear that basically broke the internet—and people's wallets.
But here is the thing. Most people think these jackets are just about the clout. They assume it's a standard Nuptse with a fancy doodle on the shoulder. They’re wrong.
The "XX KAWS" collection, which first hit the scene in early 2022 and saw a massive secondary wave in October that same year, was actually a deep dive into the North Face archives. We’re talking about the 1990s Expedition System. Brian Donnelly—the man behind the KAWS moniker—didn't just slap a logo on a coat. He treated the entire textile like a canvas. He played with "two mindsets, one vision."
Why Everyone Still Wants the Nuptse
If you're looking for the crown jewel of the collab, it's the Retro 1996 Nuptse Jacket. It’s iconic.
The Nuptse is a beast. It features that classic 700-fill down that keeps you warm when the temperature decides to take a nosedive. What KAWS did was take those oversized baffles and turn them into a playground for his signature abstract camo and "XX" branding.
I’ve talked to collectors who swear the Monterey Blue and Safety Green prints are the only ones worth owning. Others prefer the "Moonlight Ivory" because it’s subtle. Sorta. As subtle as a KAWS piece can be, anyway.
It’s not just about looking good. These jackets have a retractable hood and a water-repellent DWR finish. You can actually wear them in a storm. Though, let’s be real, most people are terrified of getting a single drop of rain on a jacket that currently resells for anywhere between $500 and $900 depending on the size and colorway.
The Technical Specs You Actually Care About
Let’s get nerdy for a second.
- The Insulation: We are looking at 700-fill goose down. That’s top-tier warmth-to-weight ratio.
- The Shell: 100% recycled nylon ripstop. It’s tough. It won't snag easily on a stray branch or a subway turnstile.
- The Fit: It’s boxy. Very 90s. If you want a slim fit, you're looking at the wrong brand.
There was also the 1994 Himalayan Parka in the mix. This thing is a literal sleeping bag with sleeves. It uses Futurelight technology—TNF's proprietary breathable, waterproof fabric. It’s overkill for the city, but it looks incredible.
Spotting the Fakes in 2026
The market is flooded. Seriously. If you’re buying a KAWS x North Face jacket on a secondary marketplace like eBay or Depop today, you have to be a detective.
Start with the "700" embroidery on the sleeve. On an authentic jacket, the stitching is dense. It’s beefy. Fake ones usually have thin, shaky thread that looks like it was done in a hurry.
Then, check the holographic tag. This is the "gotcha" moment for most counterfeiters. Real North Face tags have tiny, precise cuts on the corners of the hologram. If yours is a perfect rectangle with no notches, you’ve probably got a dud.
Also, look at the zippers. Authentic TNF zippers are chunky. The metal should be stamped with a bold, wide font. Fakes often use narrower, cheaper-looking hardware that feels light in your hand.
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The Price Reality Check
Prices are weird right now. Back in early 2025, you could snag some of the hoodies or the Freeride fleece for a decent price. But the Nuptse jackets? They’ve held their value like crazy.
A brand new "Moonlight Ivory" Nuptse is currently hovering around $550 on StockX. If you find one for $200 on a random site, it is a scam. Period. TNF actually raised their retail prices across the board in early 2026 due to material costs and shipping tariffs, which has only pushed the resale value of these limited collabs higher.
How to Style It Without Looking Like a Hypebeast
It’s easy to overdo it. If you’re wearing the KAWS camo print, don’t wear the matching pants. Please. You’ll look like a walking billboard.
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Pair the jacket with simple, dark denim or some heavyweight grey sweatpants. Let the jacket do the talking. Since the KAWS x North Face jacket has such a loud personality, the rest of your outfit should be the "straight man" in the comedy duo.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Purchase
If you're ready to pull the trigger, don't just click "buy" on the first listing you see.
- Request "Proof of Purchase": Ask the seller for the original digital receipt or a photo of the physical tag with a handwritten note of their username and today's date.
- Verify the Product Code: Every jacket has a small white tag inside with a style code (like NF0A7WLU). Google that code. It should bring up the exact colorway and model you are looking at.
- Check the "XX" Alignment: KAWS is a perfectionist. The "XX" embroidery on the back shoulder should be perfectly level. If it’s tilted even a few degrees, it’s a red flag.
- Feel the Down: If you’re buying in person, give the baffles a squeeze. Real 700-fill down springs back instantly. If it feels flat or lumpy, it might be cheap synthetic filler.
The KAWS x North Face collaboration remains one of the few times where "art" clothing actually performs as well as "utility" clothing. It's warm, it's durable, and it'll probably be worth even more in another two years. Just make sure you're getting the real deal before you drop half a month's rent on it.