You’ve probably seen the photos. They usually involve a massive, bright pink phallus being hoisted through a crowd of cheering people in Kawasaki. It’s the kind of thing that breaks the internet every April. People call it the "Penis Festival," and while that’s technically accurate, it’s also a bit of a lazy oversimplification. Honestly, if you just go for the Instagram shot, you’re missing the actual soul of the fertility festival in Japan.
It’s crowded. It’s loud. It’s pink. But underneath the spectacle of phallic-shaped lollipops and carved radishes, there is a deeply rooted history of community health, gender identity, and ancient Shinto tradition.
The Shinto Roots of the Kanamara Matsuri
The festival takes place at the Kanayama Shrine. Specifically, this shrine is located on the grounds of Wakamiya Hachiman-gu in Kawasaki. Most tourists just see the chaos, but the shrine itself has a specific purpose. It’s dedicated to Kanayama Hiko and Kanayama Hime, two deities associated with blacksmithing and metalworking.
Wait, why blacksmithing?
Legend says a sharp-toothed demon once hid inside the vagina of a young woman and bit off the penises of two different grooms on their wedding nights. To fix this terrifying situation, a blacksmith forged a metal phallus to break the demon's teeth. That’s the "Steel Phallus" of the legend. It sounds like a folklore fever dream, but it established the shrine as a place to pray for protection and healing.
Historically, this wasn’t just for "fertility" in the sense of making babies. During the Edo period (1603–1867), sex workers would visit the shrine to pray for protection against sexually transmitted infections. It was a place where people marginalized by society could seek divine help without judgment. That spirit of inclusivity still defines the festival today.
More Than One Way to Celebrate Fertility
When people talk about a fertility festival in Japan, they are usually thinking of the Kanamara Matsuri in Kawasaki. However, it’s not the only one. Not even close.
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Just a few weeks earlier, in March, the city of Komaki hosts the Honen Matsuri. If Kawasaki is the "pink and quirky" festival, Komaki is the "traditional and earthy" version. At Honen Matsuri, a 2.5-meter phallus carved from a single cypress tree is carried through the streets. It’s heavy. It’s serious. It’s about the harvest.
In Japan, fertility isn't just about human reproduction; it's about the fertility of the land. If the rice doesn't grow, the community dies. The wooden phallus represents the "seed" that brings life to the soil.
You’ll notice a difference in the vibe. At Honen Matsuri, you’re more likely to see older locals offering sake and praying for a good crop year. In Kawasaki, you’re more likely to see international travelers wearing headbands and eating themed snacks. Both are authentic, but they serve different parts of the Japanese cultural psyche.
The Three Main Mikoshi of Kawasaki
During the Kawasaki parade, you’ll see three distinct portable shrines, known as mikoshi. They aren't just duplicates.
The "Kanamara Boat Mikoshi" is the traditional one. It’s a black metal phallus inside a roofed shrine. It feels old-school. Then you have the "Big Kanamara Mikoshi," which is made of wood and looks more like what you’d expect from a standard Shinto festival.
Then there’s "Elizabeth."
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Elizabeth is the giant pink phallus that everyone recognizes from social media. It was actually donated by a famous drag queen club in Tokyo called the Elizabeth Kaikan. This is a huge detail people miss. The inclusion of the LGBTQ+ community isn't a modern "PR move" for the festival; it’s a continuation of the shrine's history as a refuge for those outside the mainstream "norm."
Why the World Obsesses Over This
Let’s be real. Japan has a reputation for being somewhat conservative or reserved. Seeing a grandmother calmly licking a pink phallic lollipop while a parade of drag queens carries a giant shrine creates a massive cognitive dissonance for Westerners.
But for locals, Shintoism isn't about "sin" or "shame" in the way Western religions often view sexuality. Shinto is about kami—spirits that inhabit everything. If life comes from sex, then the organs of sex are sacred. Why wouldn't you celebrate them?
The festival has also become a massive platform for HIV/AIDS awareness. Profits from merchandise sales often go toward medical research and support for patients. It’s a rare moment where ancient ritual and modern public health intersect perfectly.
Logistics: Getting There Without Losing Your Mind
If you are planning to attend the fertility festival in Japan, specifically the Kanamara Matsuri, you need to be prepared. This isn't a casual stroll.
- Timing is Everything: It’s almost always the first Sunday in April. The festivities kick off around 10:00 AM, but the parade starts in the early afternoon.
- The Commute: You take the Keikyu Line to Kawasaki-Daishi Station. It will be packed. Like, "can't move your arms" packed.
- The Food: Yes, there are themed lollipops. No, you probably won't get one if you arrive late. They sell out within an hour or two.
- The Crowd: Expect tens of thousands of people. If you hate crowds, stay away. If you love a good-natured, slightly chaotic party, it’s the best day of the year.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
Don't just show up and wing it. You’ll end up stuck behind a wall of people seeing nothing but the back of someone’s head.
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Research the smaller shrines first. If you find the Kawasaki crowd too intense, look into the Honen Matsuri in Aichi Prefecture or the Tagata Jinja. They offer a much more "local" feel with fewer tourists.
Dress appropriately. While the festival is about sex organs, it’s still a religious event. Don’t show up in anything actually offensive or lewd. Most people are dressed in casual clothes or traditional happi coats.
Bring cash. Most of the stalls selling charms (omamori) or food don't take credit cards or Suica. You don’t want to find the perfect wooden carving and realize you’re 500 yen short.
Understand the "why." Before you go, read up on the kami of the shrine. When you see people touching the shrines for luck, you'll understand they aren't just being silly—they are asking for health, for a safe pregnancy, or for a long-lasting marriage.
The fertility festival in Japan is a wild, beautiful, and deeply human celebration. It reminds us that sexuality and spirituality don't have to be at odds. It's about life, in its most literal and exuberant form.
Next Steps for Your Trip Planning:
- Check the Official Date: The date can shift slightly depending on the calendar, so verify the first Sunday of April via the Kawasaki City tourism board.
- Book Your Stay in Kawasaki or South Tokyo: Staying in Shinagawa gives you a direct shot on the Keikyu line, saving you an hour of transit time.
- Explore the Shrine Grounds Mid-Week: If you want to actually see the "Steel Phallus" without a million people in the way, visit the Kanayama Shrine on a Tuesday or Wednesday before or after the festival. It’s open year-round.
- Diversify Your Itinerary: Pair the festival with a visit to the Kawasaki Daishi Temple nearby, which is one of the most important Buddhist temples in the region, providing a quiet contrast to the festival’s energy.