Most people think of French cooking as this incredibly fussy, high-stakes drama where one wrong move ruins everything. Then you meet Julia Child. Or at least, you meet her version of Julia Child's Coq au Vin.
It’s basically the ultimate "peasant dish" that somehow ended up wearing a tuxedo. Honestly, it’s just chicken in wine. But if you've ever tried to follow her original 1961 recipe from Mastering the Art of French Cooking, you know it's a bit of a process. It’s a labor of love that involves flaming brandy, peeling tiny onions, and wondering why on earth you’re simmering bacon in water for ten minutes.
Why the Bacon Simmer is Not Negotiable
Let’s talk about that bacon. Julia tells you to cut it into "lardons"—which are just little matchsticks—and then simmer them in water.
Why?
In 1960s America, bacon was (and still is) super smoky and salty. If you just tossed it in the pan, that smoke would bulldoze over the delicate wine sauce. By simmering it, you strip away the harshness. You’re left with the "essence" of pork fat without the campfire vibes. It sounds like a chore. It is. But skipping it is how you end up with a dish that tastes like a BBQ pit instead of a French bistro.
The Flambé Moment: Is It Just for Show?
At some point, Julia asks you to pour in a quarter cup of Cognac and set it on fire.
It’s terrifying.
You’ve got a pan of hot fat and chicken, and now you’re basically a pyrotechnic. But the flaming—the flambé—actually serves a purpose beyond looking cool on a PBS special. It burns off the raw alcohol bite while leaving behind the rich, woody notes of the brandy. It "seals" the flavor of the meat in a way that just simmering it won't do. Just... maybe have a lid nearby. Or a fire extinguisher.
The Wine: Don't Buy the "Cooking" Kind
Julia was pretty specific about the wine. She suggested a young, full-bodied red like a Burgundy, Beaujolais, or even a Chianti.
Whatever you do, don't use "cooking wine" from the grocery store aisle. That stuff is loaded with salt and tastes like chemicals. Use something you’d actually drink. Because you’re going to have about half a bottle left over, and you’re going to need it after peeling two dozen pearl onions.
What about the "Purple Chicken" Problem?
One thing people always freak out about is the color. After braising in red wine for thirty minutes, the chicken turns a weird, bruised-looking purple.
It’s normal.
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Actually, it’s beautiful once the sauce thickens and turns into that glossy, deep mahogany velvet. If your chicken looks like it’s been through a grape juice fight, you’re doing it right.
The Secret is in the "Beurre Manié"
Most modern stews use a roux at the beginning (flour and fat cooked together). Not Julia. She often finishes the sauce with a beurre manié.
This is just a fancy way of saying "kneaded butter." You mash equal parts flour and softened butter into a paste and whisk it into the boiling liquid at the very end. It thickens the sauce instantly and gives it a gorgeous shine. It's basically a magic trick for your dinner.
Making it Work in 2026
We’re all busy. I get it.
Peeling 24 pearl onions by hand is a form of medieval torture. Here’s the truth: Julia herself would probably tell you to buy the frozen ones if you’re in a rush. She was about the result, not just the struggle.
A Few Pro-Tips from the Trenches:
- Dry the chicken. If the meat is wet, it won't brown. It'll steam. Use a whole roll of paper towels if you have to.
- Use thighs. While the original recipe says "frying chicken," breasts often dry out during the braise. Bone-in, skin-on thighs stay juicy and give the sauce more body.
- The next day rule. Like all good stews, Julia Child's Coq au Vin is better 24 hours later. The flavors "marry." The sauce settles. It’s just better.
How to Actually Serve This
In France, this usually hits the table with nothing but parsley-covered boiled potatoes. They act like little sponges for that incredible red wine sauce. You could do egg noodles or even a crusty baguette, but the potatoes are the classic move.
The dish is heavy. It's rich. It's definitely not "health food." But it's arguably the most comforting thing you can eat on a cold Tuesday night.
If you're ready to tackle it, start by getting your bacon and chicken prepped. Don't rush the browning—that "fond" (the brown bits on the bottom of the pan) is where the soul of the dish lives. Once you've mastered the balance of the wine and the stock, you'll realize why people are still talking about this recipe sixty years later.
To get started tonight, make sure you have a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven and a decent bottle of Pinot Noir. Start by blanching your bacon lardons to remove the excess salt, then brown your chicken in the rendered fat until it’s deeply golden.