Jordan Romero: What Really Happened to the Youngest Man to Climb Everest

Jordan Romero: What Really Happened to the Youngest Man to Climb Everest

Imagine being 13. Most kids that age are worried about algebra tests, clearing up their skin, or finally getting that "cool" band t-shirt. Jordan Romero wasn't like most kids. On May 22, 2010, at exactly 13 years, 10 months, and 10 days old, he stood on the roof of the world. He became the youngest man to climb Everest, a record that essentially broke the mountaineering world.

It wasn't just a physical feat. It was a massive, international controversy.

When Jordan reached the 29,032-foot summit, he didn't just bring a backpack and oxygen. He brought a storm of criticism about whether a child belongs in the "Death Zone." Honestly, his achievement was so polarizing that it actually forced the hand of international climbing bodies. They changed the rules specifically because of him.

The Mural That Started Everything

Great stories usually have a weirdly simple beginning. For Jordan, it was a painting in his elementary school hallway. It was a mural showing the Seven Summits—the highest peaks on each of the seven continents.

Most kids walk past those things without a second glance. Jordan? He went home to his dad, Paul Romero, an elite adventure racer, and told him he wanted to climb them all.

He didn't start with Everest, obviously. That would’ve been suicide. He knocked out Kilimanjaro at age 10. Then came Kosciuszko, Elbrus, Aconcagua, and Denali. By the time he looked at Everest, he had more high-altitude experience than most adult "tourists" who pay $70k to be dragged up the mountain.

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Why the North Side?

You've probably heard that the Nepal side of Everest is the "standard" route. But Nepal has an age limit. You have to be 16. So, Jordan and his team—his dad, his step-mom Karen Lundgren, and three Sherpas (Ang Pasang, Lama Dawa, and Lama Karma)—went through Tibet. China didn't have a minimum age back then.

The North Side is notoriously fickle. It’s colder, windier, and arguably more technical than the South. But for a 13-year-old trying to make history, it was the only door left open.

The Reality of the "Death Zone" at 13

Let’s talk about the biology of this because it’s kinda terrifying. At sea level, your blood is 100% saturated with oxygen. On the summit of Everest, you’re lucky to hit 65% or 70%. For a growing teenager, the risks of High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)—basically your brain swelling with fluid—are massive.

Critics like mountaineer Todd Burleson argued that a child’s brain is still developing. We still don't fully know what that level of oxygen deprivation does to a 13-year-old over a two-month expedition.

Jordan, for his part, seemed unfazed. He spent his time at base camp doing homework and talking to his mom via satellite phone. But the climbing community was livid. They called it "child abuse" and "a publicity stunt."

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The Team That Made it Possible

Jordan didn't do this alone. No one does.

  • Paul Romero: A paramedic and high-end athlete who monitored Jordan's vitals constantly.
  • Karen Lundgren: An adventure racer who provided the tactical planning.
  • The Sherpas: The literal backbone of the mission. They carried the heavy loads and fixed the lines that made the summit push possible.

The Backlash and the Law

When the news hit that a California middle-schooler was standing on the summit, the world didn't just applaud. They got worried.

The China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) saw the media firestorm and realized they couldn't have 11 or 12-year-olds flooding the mountain trying to beat Jordan's record. Shortly after his climb, they slammed the door shut. They instituted a new rule: no one under 18 and no one over 60.

Nepal already had their age 16 limit. Basically, Jordan Romero's record is "frozen." Unless a government changes its mind or someone climbs illegally, he will likely be the youngest man to climb Everest forever.

What Most People Get Wrong About Jordan

People think he was "dragged" up there by fame-hungry parents.

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If you listen to Jordan talk now—he’s in his late 20s—he’s very clear: "My parents didn't drag me up the mountain. If anything, it was the other way round." He was the engine. He was the one who saw that mural and couldn't let go of the idea.

He also wasn't some rich kid with a silver spoon. They had to crowdsource and fundraise like crazy to get the money for the permits and gear. It was a "small town in California" effort, not a corporate-sponsored luxury tour.

Is It Still a Record?

Yes. 13 years, 10 months.

Before him, the record was held by Ming Kipa, a 15-year-old Sherpa girl who summitted in 2003. Before her, it was Temba Tsheri, a 16-year-old Nepalese boy who unfortunately lost five fingers to frostbite during his attempt.

Jordan’s climb was "clean" by comparison—he came down with a sunburn and some sore calves. That's it.

Actionable Insights for Aspiring Climbers

If you're looking at Jordan's story and thinking about your own goals, here is the reality of modern mountaineering:

  • Check the Age Barriers: As of 2026, you generally need to be 18 for the North Side and 16 for the South Side. Don't plan a trip until you've verified the current season's permits.
  • Experience Over Ego: Jordan climbed five of the Seven Summits before Everest. If you haven't stood on a 20,000-foot peak like Aconcagua, you have no business looking at 29,000 feet.
  • The "North vs. South" Debate: The South (Nepal) has better infrastructure but more crowds (the "traffic jams"). The North (Tibet/China) is more remote. Choose based on your technical skill, not just convenience.
  • Conditioning is Non-Negotiable: You need to be able to run 10km in under 70 minutes or cycle 20km in under an hour just to handle the baseline physical stress of high-altitude trekking.

Jordan Romero eventually finished all Seven Summits by age 15. He’s now living a relatively quiet life, often focusing on environmental issues and peak bagging in the U.S. He proved that age is just a number, but he also proved that records often come with a heavy price tag of public scrutiny.