Sneaker culture is basically a religion now, but if we’re being honest, the Jordan Chicago 1 OG is the genesis. People talk about "grails" all the time. Usually, they're just hyping up some limited-run collab from last Tuesday. But the original 1985 Chicago? That’s different. It’s the high-top that technically started a billion-dollar empire, even though half the "facts" people parrot about it are actually marketing myths cooked up by Nike’s 80s ad agencies.
You’ve probably heard the story. Michael Jordan wears the black and red shoes. The NBA bans them. Nike pays the fine. The rebel is born. Except, that didn't happen—not with this shoe. The "Banned" shoe was actually the Air Ship. The Jordan Chicago 1 OG was the colorway MJ actually wore to stay within the rules while still looking like a total alien compared to the sea of boring white sneakers on the court. It’s the shoe that balanced rebellion with reality.
The 1985 Blueprint: Why Your Modern Retros Feel "Off"
If you hold a pair of 1985 originals next to a 2015 Retro or even the recent "Lost and Found" version, the differences are kind of staggering. Modern manufacturing is too perfect. The Jordan Chicago 1 OG from '85 had a specific, aggressive silhouette that Nike has struggled to replicate for decades.
The collar on the OG is higher. It leans forward, almost like it’s ready to sprint. Then there’s the leather. Back in 1985, Nike wasn’t the behemoth it is now; they were using thick, heavy-duty hide that was meant to survive 82 games of a 198-pound shooting guard jumping out of the gym.
Most people don't realize the "Wings" logo was actually sketched on a cocktail napkin by Peter Moore during a flight. It wasn't some boardroom-tested corporate branding. It was a whim. That whim now defines the most recognizable silhouette in footwear history.
The "Bred" vs. Chicago Confusion
Let’s clear this up once and for all because it gets messy in the forums. The "Bred" (Black and Red) is the colorway that got the infamous NBA warning letter. But the Jordan Chicago 1 OG—the white, red, and black masterpiece—was the workhorse. This was the pair MJ wore when he dropped 63 points on Larry Bird’s Celtics in the playoffs.
Bird famously said after that game, "I think it's just God disguised as Michael Jordan."
He wasn't talking about the shoes, obviously. But the image of Jordan hovering in mid-air, legs spread, wearing those high-contrast Chicago 1s, became the visual shorthand for greatness. If you're looking for the soul of the brand, it’s in the Chicago colorway, not the black and red one.
Technical Specs That Actually Mattered
In 1985, this was a high-performance basketball shoe. By today's standards? It's basically a flat-soled skate shoe. But for the time, the tech was revolutionary.
📖 Related: Boats and Naked Women: Why This Classic Marketing Trope is Shifting in 2026
- Air-Sole Unit: It was tiny. Tucked into the heel. You couldn't even see it.
- Perforated Toebox: Essential for breathability so players' feet didn't turn into literal soup.
- Thin Cupsole: Jordan actually requested a thinner sole because he wanted to "feel the floor." He hated the thick foam of other 80s sneakers.
It’s funny to think about now. We wear these to grab coffee or go to dinner. Jordan was out there pulling 360-degree dunks in what is essentially a piece of thin leather glued to a rubber cup. His ankles must have been made of steel.
The Secondary Market and the "Dusty" Aesthetic
Why are people paying $20,000 to $50,000 for a pair of shoes they can't even wear? Because 1985 Jordan Chicago 1 OG pairs are disintegrating. The foam in the collars turns to powder. The rubber midsoles harden until they crack like glass.
It’s a ticking clock.
Collectors like Chris Ivy at Heritage Auctions or the guys at Sotheby’s have seen the prices skyrocket because the supply of "deadstock" (unworn) OGs is basically zero. You’re buying a piece of art, not a sneaker. If you try to walk to the mailbox in an original '85 pair, the sole will likely stay on the sidewalk while your foot keeps moving.
Spotting the Fakes (The 80s Edition)
Fake sneakers aren't a new phenomenon. Even in the late 80s, knockoffs were hitting flea markets. But telling an original Jordan Chicago 1 OG from a high-end modern replica requires looking at the "Swoosh" shape. On the '85, the tail of the Swoosh is much more pointed and reaches higher toward the lace eyelets.
👉 See also: King of Prussia Mall Santa: Everything You Need to Know Before Heading to the Plaza or Court
Also, check the stamp on the inside of the collar. It should have a series of numbers (like 850204 TY). Those numbers actually mean something. The first two digits are the year, the next two are the month of production. If those numbers don't look like they were stamped by a tired factory worker in 1985, they’re probably not real.
The Cultural Pivot: From the Court to the Streets
By 1986, the Jordan 1 was actually sitting on clearance racks. Hard to believe, right? The Jordan 2 had come out, and people thought the 1 was "old news."
The only reason the Jordan Chicago 1 OG survived in the public consciousness during the late 80s was because of skaters. Guys like Lance Mountain and the Bones Brigade realized these leather basketball shoes were indestructible for skating. They were cheap, they had great board feel, and they protected your ankles.
Without the skate community keeping the silhouette alive while Nike moved on to the Jordan 3 and 4, the Chicago 1 might have just been a footnote in a catalog. It’s the ultimate irony: the most "pro-athlete" shoe in the world was saved by a bunch of counter-culture teenagers in empty swimming pools.
How to Handle a 1985 Pair Today
If you happen to find a pair in your uncle's attic, don't clean them with soap and water. You'll ruin the value instantly.
- Don't "Restore" the Leather: The "patina"—the yellowing of the white leather and the fading of the red—is exactly what collectors want.
- Avoid Humidity: Moisture is the enemy. It speeds up the hydrolysis of the foam.
- Check the "Wings" Logo: It should be slightly debossed (pressed in), not just printed on the surface.
- The Smell Test: Real 85s have a weird, musty, chemical-meets-old-basement smell. It’s hard to fake.
Why the Chicago 1 Still Wins
Every year, there’s a new "it" shoe. We’ve had the Yeezy era, the chunky "dad shoe" era, and the Travis Scott era. But the Jordan Chicago 1 OG remains the anchor. It’s the only shoe that looks just as good with a pair of tailored trousers as it does with shredded jeans or basketball shorts.
It’s the "Submariner" of sneakers.
The color blocking is perfect. White on the side panels to let the Swoosh pop. Red on the overlays for the "Bulls" identity. Black on the collar and laces to tie it all together. It’s a masterclass in industrial design that hasn't been topped in forty years.
Actionable Next Steps for Enthusiasts
If you’re looking to get into the world of OG Jordans, start by studying the 1985 production codes and factory markings. Don't just trust a "verified" tag on a resale app; those authenticators are often overworked and miss the nuance of '85 shapes. Join specialized forums like the "Original Air Jordan" groups on social media where collectors share macro photos of stitching patterns.
🔗 Read more: How long ago was December 2nd and why we always lose track of time
If you want the look without the $30,000 price tag, look for the 2022 Jordan 1 "Lost and Found." It’s the closest Nike has ever come to replicating the 1985 shape, complete with "pre-cracked" leather and a faux-vintage box that mimics what you would have actually seen on a shelf in a mom-and-pop sporting goods store in 1985.
For those holding an actual pair of OGs: invest in a high-quality acrylic display case with UV protection. Light is just as dangerous as moisture. If you keep them in the dark and keep them dry, you aren't just holding a sneaker—you're holding an appreciating asset that has historically outperformed the S&P 500.
The Jordan Chicago 1 OG isn't just leather and rubber. It’s the physical manifestation of a moment in 1985 when sports, fashion, and a kid from North Carolina collided to change what we wear on our feet forever.