Let’s be real for a second. Purple suede is risky. It’s loud, it’s velvet-adjacent, and on the wrong shoe, it looks like a costume. But when Jordan Brand dropped the Jordan 5 Alternate Grapes back in July 2020, they weren't just throwing paint at a wall. They were messing with a legacy that dates back to 1990, the year Will Smith made the "Grape" colorway a cultural icon on The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air.
People expected a retread. Instead, they got a saturated, Grape Ice masterpiece. It was a polarizing move.
Some purists hated the departure from the classic white leather base. Others saw it as the ultimate "what if" scenario. Basically, the Jordan 5 Alternate Grapes flipped the script by taking the secondary accent color from the OG and making it the main character. It’s a bold shoe. You can’t hide in these.
The DNA of the Grape Ice Colorway
To understand why this specific release matters, you have to look at the lineage. The original Grape 5 is one of the "big four" OG colorways. It’s the one that didn't have any Chicago Bulls red. It was strictly lifestyle. Then came the "Black Grapes" in 2013, which everyone loved because they felt like a "Bred" version of the classic.
Then 2020 happened.
The Jordan 5 Alternate Grapes, officially colored as Grape Ice/Black/Clear/New Emerald, decided to ditch leather entirely. They went with a lush, hairy suede. It’s soft. If you run your finger across it, the grain shifts. That choice changed the entire vibe of the silhouette.
Why the Suede Matters
Leather is easy to clean. Suede? Suede is a commitment.
The use of "Grape Ice" suede across the upper gives the shoe a depth that the 2013 Black Grapes just didn't have. Under certain lighting, they look almost royal blue; in the sun, they’re unmistakably purple. It’s a color depth that resonates with collectors who are tired of the same old flat finishes.
But here’s the thing: suede on a Jordan 5 creates a bulkier look. The 5 is already a chunky shoe—inspired by a P-51 Mustang fighter jet—and the texture of the Alternate Grapes adds visual weight. It’s a tank. A purple, New Emerald-accented tank.
Design Details That Most People Miss
It’s not just about the purple. If you look at the shark teeth on the midsole—that classic Tinker Hatfield design element—they’re finished in that vibrant New Emerald green with black speckling. It’s a small detail, but it’s what keeps the shoe from looking like a grape soda bottle.
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The tongue is another story.
On the Jordan 5 Alternate Grapes, we get the reflective 3M tongue. This is a huge deal for sneakerheads. When the light hits it, the tongue glows silver, cutting through the heavy purple and green. It’s a nod to the OG performance roots where players needed to stand out under arena lights.
The "Nike Air" vs Jumpman debate: This release features the Jumpman logo on the heel. Some collectors find this a dealbreaker, preferring the "Nike Air" branding for that 1990s nostalgia. Honestly, on a non-OG colorway like this, the Jumpman feels right. It’s a modern remix.
The lace locks: They’re translucent green. Most people lose these or take them off. Keep them on. They balance the emerald on the midsole.
The clear outsole: It’s got that icy blue tint. Over time, these will yellow. It’s inevitable. Some people hate the "piss-sole" look, but on the Alternate Grapes, that slight oxidation actually blends decently with the green accents.
How the Market Reacted (And Where It Stands Now)
When these launched for $190, the hype was weird. We were in the middle of a global shift, and sneaker buying was at an all-time high. They sold out instantly.
But then the resale market did something interesting.
Initially, prices stayed pretty close to retail. People were skeptical. Was it too much purple? Fast forward to 2026, and the narrative has shifted. The Jordan 5 Alternate Grapes have aged incredibly well. While other 2020 releases have faded into obscurity, the "Alternates" have become a go-to for people who want that "Grape" energy without paying the insane prices for a 2013 pair or waiting for a retro of the OGs.
Prices on platforms like StockX and GOAT have crept up steadily. You’re looking at a premium now, especially for deadstock (unworn) pairs. It’s a testament to the "Alternate" concept actually working. Jordan Brand does this a lot—think "Alternate 89" 4s or the "Alternate Bel-Air" 5s—but the Grapes feel the most cohesive.
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Quality Control: The Elephant in the Room
We have to talk about the Nike QC (Quality Control).
If you’re hunting for a pair of Jordan 5 Alternate Grapes today, you need to check the stitching. 2020 was a chaotic year for manufacturing. Some pairs left the factory with slightly uneven "shark teeth" paint or glue stains on the midsole.
Check the suede consistency.
Because it’s a natural material, one shoe might look slightly shaggier than the other. It’s not necessarily a sign of a fake, but it is something that bugs perfectionists. Also, the 3M on the tongue can sometimes have small scratches straight out of the box. It’s just the nature of the material.
Styling the Loudest Shoe in Your Closet
How do you even wear these?
If you go full 90s with a matching windbreaker, you might look like you’re heading to a costume party. The move with the Jordan 5 Alternate Grapes is contrast.
- The Neutral Play: Black joggers or charcoal cargos. Let the shoes do the talking.
- The Summer Vibe: Standard grey heather sweatshorts and a white tee.
- What to avoid: Don't try to match the New Emerald green exactly. It’s a specific shade. If your shirt is off by a few hex codes, the whole outfit looks "budget."
Honestly, these shoes are a mood. They’re for the days when you feel like being noticed. They aren't "everyday" shoes unless you have a very specific, very loud personal style.
Common Misconceptions
People often confuse these with the "Bel-Air" 5s. They aren't the same. The Bel-Airs use a grey base with mismatched accents. The Alternate Grapes are a monochromatic purple assault.
Another myth: "The suede bleeds."
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I've seen people claim that if you get these wet, the purple dye will ruin your socks and the green midsole. While you should never wear suede in a rainstorm, the dye on the 2020 Alternate Grapes is actually pretty stable compared to the 2017 "Red Suede" 5s, which were notorious for bleeding. Still, hit them with a protector spray. Please.
Why This Release Was a Turning Point
The Jordan 5 Alternate Grapes proved that Jordan Brand could take an iconic color palette and completely rearrange it without losing the soul of the shoe. It paved the way for more "flipped" classics. It showed that the market was ready for bold, non-traditional materials on legacy silhouettes.
It’s a polarizing shoe, and that’s why it’s great.
The best sneakers usually are. If everyone likes a shoe, it’s probably boring. No one calls the Alternate Grapes boring. They’re a loud, proud tribute to a colorway that changed how we think about basketball shoes and lifestyle crossover.
Moving Forward with Your Pair
If you’re looking to pick up a pair now, or you’ve got one tucked away in the closet, here is the move.
First, check for "frosting." On some 2020 pairs, the plastic lace cages can develop a slight white film if stored in humid conditions. This is easily wiped off with a damp cloth, but it's something to watch for in storage.
Second, invest in a brass suede brush. Do not use a plastic bristle brush on these. The Grape Ice suede is delicate. A light brushing after every few wears will keep the "movement" in the material and prevent it from looking matted and dull.
Finally, watch the soles. The clear rubber on the bottom is a magnet for dirt. If you care about the "icy" look, wipe the soles down after you wear them. Once dirt gets embedded in that porous clear rubber, it’s there forever.
The Jordan 5 Alternate Grapes aren't just a sneaker; they're a 2020 time capsule. They represent a moment when we all needed a little bit of vibrant, "Grape Ice" energy in our lives. Whether you're a Fresh Prince fan or just someone who loves a bold purple kick, these have earned their spot in the Jordan pantheon.
Keep the suede dry, keep the 3M bright, and don't be afraid to let the purple lead the way.
Next Steps for Collectors:
- Verify Before Buying: Use a reputable authentication service if buying from secondary markets, as high-quality replicas of this specific colorway are common.
- Suede Protection: Apply a water-repellent spray specifically rated for dyed suede before the first wear to prevent salt stains or water spots.
- Storage: Store with cedar shoe trees or acid-free paper to maintain the toe box shape, which is prone to collapsing on the 5 silhouette.