He was one of the most powerful men on the planet. A world leader. A moral authority. A man followed by a small army of Swiss Guards and photographers every time he breathed.
And yet, Karol Wojtyła was also a total ski bum.
I’m not talking about a casual vacationer who spent more time drinking hot cocoa in the lodge than on the snow. No, John Paul II skiing was a serious, lifelong obsession that defined his personality long before he ever stepped onto the balcony of St. Peter’s Basilica. Even after he became Pope, the man literally couldn't stay away from the powder.
The Daredevil of the Tatras
Before the white cassock, there was the Polish priest who loved the mountains.
Karol grew up near the Beskid Mountains, but the Tatra Mountains on the border of Poland and Slovakia were his true playground. People in the town of Zakopane used to call him the "Daredevil of the Tatras." He wasn't just "good for a priest." He was actually fast.
His schoolmates even recalled him building a DIY ski jump in the 1930s. He once hit a jump of about 6 meters—not exactly Olympic level, but for a teenager in homemade gear? That’s gutsy.
There’s this famous story from his time as a Cardinal. Someone asked him if it was really "becoming" for a high-ranking Church official to be out on the slopes. Wojtyła didn't skip a beat. He replied, "What's unbecoming for a Cardinal is to ski badly."
Basically, he felt that if you’re going to do something, do it with excellence. Or at least don't look like a total amateur while wearing your red hat.
How He Snuck Out of the Vatican
Imagine being the Pope's security detail. Your job is to keep the most visible man in the world safe. Then, one day, he tells you he wants to go to a public ski resort in Abruzzo without anyone knowing.
That was the reality for the Swiss Guards.
According to Cardinal Stanislaw Dziwisz, the Pope’s longtime secretary, the "Great Escape" happened over 100 times.
The Clandestine Routine
They had a system.
- They’d pack into a plain, unmarked car (often one owned by a priest to avoid suspicion).
- The Pope would sit in the back seat.
- As they passed the Swiss Guard gates, a prelate in the car would open a massive newspaper to hide the Pope's face.
- They’d drive two hours to the mountains near Rome, usually the Abruzzo or Sabine ranges.
Once they hit the snow, he was just another guy in a puffy jacket and goggles. He’d stand in line for the lift like everyone else. He used a regular ski pass. He didn't want the "VIP" treatment; he just wanted to feel the wind on his face.
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Honestly, it’s wild to think that people were probably complaining about the lift lines right next to the Pope and had absolutely no clue.
That Time an 8-Year-Old Busted Him
Of course, you can't be one of the most photographed humans in history and never get caught.
On one trip to Ovindoli, a young boy (about eight years old) kept staring at the "stranger" on the lift. After a few runs, the kid just walked up and asked point-blank: "Are you the Pope?"
Wojtyła smiled and said, "Yes, do you want to ski with me?"
His aides panicked and tried to convince the kid he was imagining things. They told him to hurry up and find his parents before he got lost. They bundled the Pope into the car and sped back to Rome before the kid could tell anyone else.
The Gear and the Style
The Pope wasn't a gear snob, but he knew what he liked.
In the early years of his papacy, an Italian sports club gifted him a pair of sleek white skis. He loved them. But his style was a bit... old school.
Because he learned to ski in Poland on very rigid, wooden skis, he developed a unique posture. He leaned forward more than modern skiers do. It was a technique born of necessity—if you didn't lean forward on those old Polish boards, you’d end up on your back.
He stayed loyal to his roots. Even when he was skiing in the Italian Alps later in life, people noticed that distinct "Tatra lean."
Why He Finally Stopped
Time catches up to everyone, even saints.
By the early 90s, the Pope’s health started a steep decline. He had a series of surgeries—one on his colon, then a dislocated shoulder, and finally a broken femur in 1994.
He officially hung up the skis in 1993 at the age of 73.
It wasn't an easy choice. The mountains were his "sanctuary." He once said that in the mountains, he felt closer to God. It was the one place he could be "Karol" instead of "His Holiness."
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Actionable Insights for Your Next Trip
If you want to experience the "Papal Slopes," you don't have to go to Poland. You can visit the exact spots where he used to sneak off in Italy.
- Campo Felice: This was one of his favorite spots in the Abruzzo region. There’s actually a run there called the "Ski Slope of Lovers" that he frequented.
- Campo Imperatore: Located near Gran Sasso, this plateau is stunning. He visited as late as 1992.
- The Gear Legacy: If you’re ever in Wadowice, Poland, go to the Museum of the Family Home of John Paul II. They have his actual skis and boots on display. It’s a sobering reminder that he was a real athlete before he was a global icon.
The takeaway? Even if you have the weight of the world on your shoulders, you need a hobby that makes you feel alive. For John Paul II, that was carving turns in the snow.
Next Steps for You:
If you're planning a trip to Italy, look into the Abruzzo region. It's often overlooked for the Alps, but the "Pope's mountains" offer incredible skiing with far fewer crowds and a lot of history.