You’ve probably been there. It’s Hanukkah, or maybe just a cold Tuesday, and you’re standing over a spitting pan of oil, praying the middle of that potato clump isn't raw. Most people think a Jewish potato pancakes recipe is just "shredded potatoes and eggs." Honestly? That’s how you end up with a greasy, limp mess that tastes like sadness and oil.
I’ve spent years tweaking this. I've burned my knuckles on box graters and argued with grandmothers about the "right" way to do it. The truth is, the secret isn't in some ancient family mystery. It’s physics. Specifically, it’s about water management. If you don't get the water out, you're steaming your potatoes, not frying them.
The starch is the secret sauce
Stop rinsing your potatoes. I see people do this all the time because they want to "clean" the starch off so the potatoes don't turn brown. That is a massive mistake. That greyish-white sludge at the bottom of your liquid bowl? That’s potato starch. It is liquid gold. When you mix that back into your batter, it acts as a natural binder that makes the edges shatteringly crisp.
You need Russet potatoes. Don't try to be fancy with Yukon Golds or red bliss potatoes here. Russets have the highest starch content. High starch equals crunch. Low starch equals a mashed potato pancake that falls apart the second it hits the oil.
Why your hands are going to hurt
You have to grate them by hand. Sorry. I know the food processor is sitting right there on the counter looking all efficient and shiny. But the food processor blades often "weep" the potato, creating a texture that’s too uniform and wet. A box grater—specifically the large holes—gives you those long, jagged strands that lace together. Those ragged edges are what catch the heat and turn into those crispy little "fringe" bits everyone fights over at the dinner table.
If you must use a machine, pulse it. Don't puree it. You aren't making baby food; you’re making a structural masterpiece.
The Great Squeeze: A manual labor of love
Once you grate those Russets and maybe a yellow onion, you’ll notice a lake forming in your bowl. This is the enemy. Grab a clean dish towel—not a flimsy paper towel, a real-deal linen or cotton kitchen towel—and dump the shreds in the middle.
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Twist it. Then twist it again. You want to squeeze it until you think the towel might rip. You want those potato shreds to feel almost dry to the touch. Let the liquid drain into a clear bowl and let it sit for five minutes. Pour off the brown water, and you'll find a layer of white powder at the bottom. That's the starch. Keep it. Scrape it back into your dry potatoes.
The binder debate
Most recipes call for flour or matzo meal. In my experience, matzo meal is superior. It absorbs any lingering moisture better than all-purpose flour does. If you use flour, you risk a "gummy" interior. Matzo meal keeps things light. Add a couple of eggs, plenty of kosher salt—more than you think you need, potatoes are salt-vampires—and a heavy crack of black pepper.
Some people add baking powder. It’s a bit controversial in traditional circles, but a half-teaspoon can actually help provide a little lift so the latkes aren't dense lead weights in your stomach.
Frying: The point of no return
Oil temperature is everything. If the oil is too cold, the potato acts like a sponge and sucks up the grease. If it's too hot, the outside turns black before the inside is cooked. You’re looking for roughly 360°F.
- Use Schmaltz (rendered chicken fat) if you want the most authentic, savory flavor profile imaginable.
- Use Peanut oil or Grapeseed oil if you want a high smoke point and a neutral taste.
- Never use extra virgin olive oil. It’ll smoke up your kitchen and taste bitter.
Don't crowd the pan. I know you’re hungry. I know the kids are circling the kitchen like sharks. But if you put six latkes in a pan that fits four, the oil temperature will plummet. You’ll end up with soggy pancakes. Give them room to breathe.
The flip and the finish
Wait for the edges to turn a deep, golden brown. This usually takes about 4 to 5 minutes. Flip them once. Only once. Constant flipping breaks the crust and lets oil seep into the center.
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When they come out, put them on a wire cooling rack set over a baking sheet. Do not put them directly onto paper towels. Why? Because the bottom of the pancake will sit in its own expressed oil and steam, losing that crunch you just worked so hard to get. A rack allows air to circulate around the whole thing.
Toppings and the "Applesauce vs. Sour Cream" war
This is where families divide. In most Jewish households, this is a binary choice. Sour cream provides a cool, tangy contrast to the hot, salty grease. Applesauce—preferably homemade and slightly chunky—adds a sweetness that cuts right through the richness.
Honestly, the pro move is both. Or, if you want to get modern, a bit of lox and a sprig of dill can turn a humble Jewish potato pancakes recipe into a high-end appetizer.
Troubleshooting your latkes
If your latkes are falling apart in the pan, you probably didn't use enough binder or your potatoes were too wet. Add another tablespoon of matzo meal.
If they are dark on the outside but raw in the middle, your heat is too high. Lower the flame and wait a minute before the next batch.
If they taste bland, you forgot the onion or the salt. You can't really fix the salt once they’re fried, but a sprinkle of flaky sea salt (like Maldon) right when they come out of the oil can save a lot of mistakes.
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The reheating reality
Latkes are best eaten within minutes of frying. However, if you're making them for a crowd, you can keep them in a 250°F oven on that wire rack. Never, under any circumstances, use a microwave. A microwave will turn a glorious latke into a piece of wet cardboard. If you have leftovers the next day, crisp them back up in a dry skillet or an air fryer.
The air fryer is actually a secret weapon for leftovers. Three minutes at 370°F and they taste almost as good as they did fresh out of the schmaltz.
The Actionable Latke Plan
To make the best version of this Jewish potato pancakes recipe, follow these exact steps without skipping the boring parts:
- Prep the potatoes: Grate 2.5 lbs of Russet potatoes and one large onion by hand.
- The Big Squeeze: Wring the moisture out using a kitchen towel until your forearms ache. Save the starch from the bottom of the liquid bowl.
- Mix the batter: Combine the dry shreds, the saved starch, 2 beaten eggs, 1/4 cup matzo meal, 1.5 teaspoons of kosher salt, and a pinch of baking powder.
- Heat the fat: Get 1/2 inch of oil/schmaltz to 360°F in a heavy cast-iron skillet.
- Fry in batches: Drop mounds of batter into the oil, flatten slightly, and fry for 4-5 minutes per side.
- Drain properly: Use a wire rack, not a flat plate. Salt them immediately while the oil is still wet on the surface so it sticks.
The most important thing to remember is that the first latke is always a "tester." It's usually ugly. It’s usually for the cook to eat while standing over the stove to make sure the seasoning is right. Don't worry about perfection on the first drop; worry about the crunch.
Once you master the moisture control, you’ll never go back to those frozen pucks from the grocery store. It’s a bit of a workout and your house will smell like a fry-cook’s apron for three days, but it’s worth every single second.