Jackson Hole to Cody Wyoming: Why the Direct Route Isn't Always the Best Choice

Jackson Hole to Cody Wyoming: Why the Direct Route Isn't Always the Best Choice

You're standing in the middle of Jackson Hole, staring at the Tetons, and you realize you need to get to Cody. Maybe it's for the nightly rodeo, or maybe you just want to see the Buffalo Bill Center of the West. It looks simple on a map. It’s just Wyoming, right? Wrong. Driving from Jackson Hole to Cody Wyoming is less of a "commute" and more of a tactical decision involving mountain passes, grizzly bears, and some of the most unpredictable weather in the lower 48.

Most people just punch it into Google Maps and follow the blue line. Don't do that.

Depending on the month, that blue line might take you over a pass that’s currently under six feet of snow or lead you into a three-hour "bison jam" in Yellowstone National Park that ruins your entire schedule. I've seen tourists try to make this run in four hours in mid-July and end up rolling into Cody at midnight because they didn't account for the reality of the terrain.


The Geography of the Divide

There are basically two ways to do this. You either go through the park (Yellowstone) or you go around it.

The "Park Route" is what everyone wants to do. You head north out of Jackson, hit the South Entrance of Yellowstone, drive past West Thumb, and then hang a right at Fishing Bridge to exit through the East Entrance. It sounds dreamy. It's beautiful. It's also a logistical nightmare during peak season. You're competing with RVs that can't go over 30 mph on grades and tourists who will slam on their brakes the second they see a squirrel that looks slightly like a marmot.

Then there’s the "High Desert" route. This takes you south out of Jackson toward Bondurant, through Dubois, and over Togwotee Pass.

It’s lonelier. It's windier. Honestly, it’s often faster.

Togwotee Pass (pronounced TO-go-tee) sits at about 9,600 feet. If you’re driving this in October or May, you better have tires that mean business. I remember driving this stretch once when the valley was perfectly clear, but by the time I hit the summit, the wind was whipping snow across the asphalt so hard I couldn't see my own hood. That’s the Wyoming reality.


The Yellowstone Factor: Navigating the East Entrance

If you choose the route from Jackson Hole to Cody Wyoming via Yellowstone, you need to understand the East Entrance. It is, by far, the most dramatic way to enter or leave the park. You’ll climb over Sylvan Pass. Sylvan is notorious. It’s steep, it’s rugged, and it’s prone to rockfalls.

The National Park Service (NPS) actually has to do significant avalanche mitigation here every spring just to get the road open.

Wait. Check the dates.

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The road from Fishing Bridge to the East Entrance usually doesn’t even open until early to mid-May. If you’re planning a trip in April, the park route isn't just "slow"—it’s impossible. You'll be forced to go around through Dubois or even further south through Casper if things are really bad.

Once you clear Sylvan Pass and exit the park, you enter the Shoshone National Forest. This is the Wapiti Valley. Theodore Roosevelt supposedly called this the "most scenic 52 miles in America." He wasn't exaggerating much. You’ve got these bizarre volcanic rock formations—the "hoodoos"—towering over the North Fork of the Shoshone River.

Look for the "Holy City" rock formation. It looks like a crumbling skyline of an ancient city. It’s weird. It’s cool. It’s worth slowing down for.

Watch the Wildlife (No, Seriously)

This isn't just a suggestion. The stretch between the Yellowstone East Entrance and Cody is prime grizzly territory.

Unlike the park, where rangers manage the crowds, out here you’re on your own. If you see a bear, stay in your car. People get overconfident because they’ve been in the "Disney-fied" version of the wilderness inside the park gates. The Shoshone National Forest is the real deal. Also, watch for bighorn sheep near the Buffalo Bill Dam. They blend into the rocks perfectly until they decide to stand in the middle of the road.


The Dubois Diversion: Why You Might Prefer US-26/287

Let’s talk about the "fast" way. Well, "fast" is relative.

If you go through Dubois, you bypass the Yellowstone entrance fees and the park traffic. You head east out of Moran Junction. This is the Wind River Country. It feels different than the lushness of Jackson. It’s high-altitude desert, red rocks, and wide-open ranch land.

Dubois is a real-deal cowboy town. It hasn’t been "boutique-ified" like Jackson Hole yet. You can still get a cheap cup of coffee and talk to someone who actually moves cattle for a living.

  • The National Museum of Military Vehicles: Just outside Dubois. It sounds niche, but it’s actually one of the most impressive private collections in the world.
  • The Overlook: As you crest Togwotee Pass heading toward Cody, there are pullouts where you can see the back side of the Tetons. They look completely different from this angle—sharper, somehow.

After Dubois, you’ll hit the town of Riverton or Shoshoni if you go way south, but the more direct "local" cut-off to Cody involves taking WY-120. This road is straight. It’s empty. It’s the kind of road where you can see the weather coming from forty miles away.

The downside? Gas.

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There is a whole lot of nothing between Dubois and Cody. If your tank is at a quarter, don't "see if you can make it." You won't. Fill up in Dubois. The wind out here creates a massive amount of drag on your vehicle, and your gas mileage will drop significantly more than you're used to.


Seasonal Realities and Road Closures

You cannot talk about the drive from Jackson Hole to Cody Wyoming without talking about the calendar. Wyoming doesn't have four seasons. It has "Construction" and "Winter."

Winter (November - April)

The interior roads of Yellowstone are closed to wheeled vehicles. They are groomed for snowcoaches and snowmobiles only. This means the direct route through the park is 100% off the table. Your only option is going south and around through Dubois. Even then, Togwotee Pass can close for days at a time during a blizzard.

Shoulder Season (May and October)

This is the "gambler's window." You might have a 60-degree day with perfect sun, or you might get hit with a foot of slush. Most seasonal amenities—bathrooms, gas stations inside the park—start closing in late September. If you're doing the drive in October, bring snacks and a heavy coat.

Summer (June - August)

Traffic. So much traffic. If you’re leaving Jackson at 9:00 AM, you’re hitting the South Entrance gate right when everyone else is. Expect a 30-to-45-minute wait just to pay your entrance fee.

Pro Tip: If you have to go through the park, leave Jackson at 6:00 AM. You’ll hit the gate before the rangers are even in the booths (you can usually just drive through if you have a pass or pay later), and you’ll see the mist rising off the Lewis River. It’s hauntingly beautiful.


The Final Stretch: Buffalo Bill Dam and Cody

Regardless of which way you come in, you’ll eventually converge near the Buffalo Bill Reservoir.

The dam here was one of the first concrete arch dams in the United States. When it was completed in 1910, it was the tallest dam in the world. There’s a visitor center where you can walk out onto the dam. It’s terrifying if you’re afraid of heights, but the wind howling through that canyon is something you have to feel to understand.

From the dam, it’s a quick 10-minute shot into Cody.

Cody is a town built on the legacy of William "Buffalo Bill" Cody. It’s more "Old West" than Jackson, which feels more "Mountain Chic." In Cody, you’ve got the Irma Hotel (built by Buffalo Bill for his daughter), the world-class museum complex, and the rodeo.

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What People Get Wrong About This Drive

The biggest mistake is thinking this is a "point A to point B" trip.

People treat it like a highway trek between two cities. It’s not. It’s an expedition through three different ecosystems. You go from the alpine peaks of the Tetons to the volcanic plateaus of Yellowstone, down into the high desert basins of the Bighorn Basin.

If you don't stop at least three times, you've failed.

Stop at the Continental Divide marker on US-287. Stop at the Smith Mansion in the Wapiti Valley—it’s this bizarre, towering wooden structure that looks like a Mad Max version of a log cabin. It’s private property, so stay at the pullout, but it’s a legendary local landmark with a tragic history involving the builder's obsession and a fatal fall.


Critical Logistics for the Trip

Don't rely on your phone.

Cell service on the road from Jackson Hole to Cody Wyoming is spotty at best and non-existent at worst. Once you leave the town of Jackson, you might have bars until you hit Moran. After that, through the park or over Togwotee, you're in a dead zone.

Download your maps for offline use. Better yet, buy a paper map. I know, it's 2026, but paper doesn't run out of battery.

Vehicle Check:

  1. Brakes: If you’re going over Sylvan Pass or Togwotee, you’ll be riding your brakes if you don't know how to downshift. If your brakes are already squealing in Jackson, get them fixed before you head to Cody.
  2. Coolant: High altitude and steep grades make engines run hot.
  3. Windshield Fluid: The bugs in the Wapiti Valley are the size of small birds. You will go through a gallon of fluid in a week.

Estimated Drive Times:

  • Via Yellowstone (The Scenic Route): 4 to 6 hours, depending on bison and tourists.
  • Via Dubois (The High Desert Route): 3.5 to 4.5 hours.
  • The "I Got Stuck Behind a Bison" Route: 8 hours.

Actionable Next Steps

If you are planning this drive right now, here is exactly what you need to do:

  • Check the WYDOT Map: Go to the Wyoming Department of Transportation website (wyoroad.info). This is the only source you should trust for road closures and webcams.
  • The Fuel Rule: Fill your tank in Jackson. Do not wait until you are "closer."
  • Pack a Cooler: Food options inside Yellowstone are mediocre and expensive. Food options between Dubois and Cody are basically non-existent.
  • Book Cody Early: If you're arriving during the Cody Stampede (around July 4th), you aren't getting a room unless you booked six months ago.

This drive is one of the last great American road trips where you can still feel a bit of the "Wild West" isolation. Respect the mountains, keep your eyes on the road for elk, and don't rush. The point isn't getting to Cody; the point is surviving the 150 miles of Wyoming that want to remind you who's really in charge.