You’re standing on a granite ledge in the middle of the John Muir Wilderness, and your legs feel like overcooked noodles. You’ve just spent the last seven hours hauling a thirty-pound pack through the "Burn Zone," where the 1992 Rainbow Fire left the forest looking like a graveyard of charred toothpicks. The sun is aggressive. There is no shade. You’re wondering why on earth you didn't just stay in Mammoth Lakes and go to a brewery.
Then you see it.
Steam. It’s rising from a hillside that looks, at first glance, like any other part of the Sierra Nevada. But as you scramble up the social trails near Fish Creek, you realize the ground is weeping hot water.
Iva Bell Hot Springs isn't some roadside attraction where you can pull over in a minivan and dip your toes. It’s a commitment. It’s basically the "Holy Grail" for California backpackers who want to soak in something more authentic than a crowded concrete tub.
The Long Road To Fish Creek
Getting to Iva Bell is a bit of a logistical puzzle. Most people start at Reds Meadow, near Mammoth Lakes. From there, you’re looking at a 13-mile trek one way. 13 miles. That’s a marathon round trip if you’re trying to do it in a day—which, honestly, is a terrible idea.
The trail takes you past Rainbow Falls, which is spectacular but usually swarming with tourists. Once you pass the falls and enter the Ansel Adams Wilderness, the crowds vanish. You’ll cross into the John Muir Wilderness shortly after, feeling like you’ve finally left the "civilized" world behind.
The terrain is weirdly diverse. You’ve got the granite slabs, the aforementioned burn areas, and then these lush, deep green meadows that look like they belong in a Disney movie. But don’t let the flowers fool you. The descent into Fish Creek Valley is a knee-crusher. You drop about 1,500 feet into the canyon, knowing full well you’ll have to climb every single inch of that back out on your last day.
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What Nobody Tells You About The Pools
People talk about "the" hot spring, but Iva Bell is actually a collection of several different pools scattered up a hillside.
The "Main Pool" is the one you see in all the photos. It’s perched on the edge of a cliff with a panoramic view of the Minarets and the surrounding peaks. It’s iconic. But it’s also the first one everyone goes to.
If you want a little more privacy—or a different temperature—you have to explore.
- The Upper Pools: These are usually the hottest. We’re talking 105°F ($40.5^\circ\text{C}$) to 110°F ($43.3^\circ\text{C}$). If you aren't careful, you’ll come out looking like a boiled lobster.
- The Lower Pools: Generally cooler and more "marshy." They’re great for a long soak where you don't want to overheat, but watch out for the silt.
- The Hidden Tubs: There are tiny, one-person seeps tucked away in the brush. Finding them is half the fun.
The water is remarkably clear, but the bottoms of the pools are natural. You’re going to feel some algae under your feet. It’s sorta slippery. Just embrace it. This is a wild experience, not a spa at the Ritz.
The Permit Game (And How To Win)
You can't just show up. I mean, you could, but a Ranger will eventually find you, and that’s a very expensive ticket.
You need a Wilderness Permit from the Inyo National Forest. These are gold. They become available on Recreation.gov exactly six months in advance at 7:00 AM PST. If you aren't at your computer with your credit card ready the second the clock strikes seven, you’re probably not going.
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The specific entry point you're looking for is Fish Creek.
Wait, here's a pro tip: If the Fish Creek permits are gone, look for Duck Pass. It’s a harder hike because you have to climb over a 10,800-foot pass, but it’s a stunning way to enter the valley and usually has slightly better availability.
Survival Tips For The Backcountry Soaker
Let’s talk about the stuff that actually matters when you’re 13 miles from the nearest paved road.
Bears are real. This isn't a "maybe." The Fish Creek area is prime habitat for black bears. You are required to use an approved bear-resistant food canister. Hanging your food in a tree is old-school and, frankly, doesn't work with these Sierra bears—they’re basically furry ninjas.
Sunscreen is your best friend. A huge chunk of the trail is exposed due to the old fire damage. You will bake. Bring a hat. Bring more water than you think you need for the stretch between Crater Creek and the descent into the valley.
Don't use soap. Seriously. Even the "biodegradable" stuff is toxic to the fragile ecosystem of the springs. Rinse off in the creek if you’re dusty, but keep the chemicals out of the hot water.
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The Cows (Wait, what?) Depending on the time of year, you might run into cattle. There are active grazing allotments in parts of the National Forest. It’s a little surreal to be in a "wilderness" area and hear a cowbell, but it happens. Watch where you step in the meadows.
The History You Didn't Know
Iva Bell isn't just a random name. There’s a bit of local lore that the springs were named after the wife of an early pioneer, but the real history is tied to the old sheep herders and miners who used these trails long before "backpacking" was a hobby.
In the 1960s and 70s, it was a legendary hangout for the counter-culture crowd. We're talking naked hippies, long summers, and zero regulations. It was a bit of a Wild West situation. Today, the Forest Service keeps a much tighter lid on things to protect the land, which is why it still looks as good as it does.
Actionable Next Steps For Your Trip
If you're actually going to do this, here is your checklist:
- Mark your calendar. Find your desired start date, count back exactly six months, and set an alarm for 6:55 AM.
- Check the Reds Meadow Shuttle. Usually, you have to take a shuttle from the Mammoth Mountain Main Lodge down to the trailhead. Check the current season's dates, as the road often opens late due to snow.
- Gear up for bugs. If you go in July, the mosquitoes in the Fish Creek meadows will try to carry you away. Go in late August or September for a bug-free experience.
- Download offline maps. There is zero cell service once you drop over the ridge. Use Gaia GPS or AllTrails and download the maps for the John Muir Wilderness.
- Plan for two nights. Doing this in one night is exhausting. Pack for at least two nights at the springs so you have a full day to just soak, explore the upper cascades, and actually recover before the hike out.
Iva Bell Hot Springs is one of those places that stays with you. It’s the smell of sulfur and pine needles, the sound of the wind through the canyon, and that feeling of absolute isolation as the stars come out while you’re neck-deep in 104-degree water. Just remember to pack out your trash—every single scrap of it.