Istana Nurul Iman: Inside the Sultan of Brunei Castle You'll Probably Never Visit

Istana Nurul Iman: Inside the Sultan of Brunei Castle You'll Probably Never Visit

Let’s be real for a second. When most people think of a "castle," they’re picturing some cold, drafty stone fortress in the Scottish Highlands or maybe a Disney-fied version with pointy blue turrets. But the Sultan of Brunei castle, known officially as Istana Nurul Iman, is a completely different beast. It isn't just a house. It’s a statement of absolute wealth that honestly makes Versailles look like a fixer-upper.

It’s huge. Like, "record-breakingly" huge.

Sitting on the banks of the Brunei River, just a short drive from the capital of Bandar Seri Begawan, this place serves as the official residence of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah. You can’t just walk in, obviously. Unless you happen to be a head of state or you’re visiting during the Hari Raya Aidilfitri festivities after Ramadan, you’re mostly stuck looking at the gold-domed roof from the river or the front gates. But the sheer scale of what’s happening behind those walls is enough to make your head spin.

Why the Sultan of Brunei Castle is actually the largest in the world

There is always a bit of a debate about "the world's largest palace." Some people point to the Forbidden City in Beijing. Others might bring up the Louvre. But Guinness World Records is pretty firm on this: Istana Nurul Iman holds the title for the largest residential palace currently in use by a head of state.

We’re talking about 2.15 million square feet.

To put that into perspective, you could fit roughly four and a half Buckingham Palaces inside its footprint. It was finished in 1984, right when Brunei gained independence from the UK, and it cost around $1.4 billion at the time. If you adjusted that for 2026 inflation? You’re looking at a number that would make even a tech billionaire sweat. The architecture was handled by Leandro Locsin, a Filipino architect who went for this interesting "Brunei Malay" style—lots of white walls, sweeping roofs that look like golden boats, and enough gold leaf to coat a small city.

It’s not just about the size, though. It’s about what’s in there.

There are 1,788 rooms. Imagine trying to find your car keys in a house with nearly two thousand rooms. Speaking of cars, the Sultan is famously one of the most prolific car collectors on the planet. The underground garage at the Sultan of Brunei castle reportedly holds over 7,000 luxury vehicles. We aren't just talking about a few nice Mercedes. We’re talking about custom-built Ferraris that don't exist anywhere else, gold-plated Rolls-Royces, and rows of McLarens that have never actually seen a public road.

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The logistics of living in a 1,700-room house

Honestly, the plumbing alone is a feat of engineering. The palace has 257 bathrooms. If you spent one day in every room of the house, it would take you nearly five years to finish the tour.

The Sultan of Brunei castle also includes:

  • A banquet hall that can seat 5,000 guests without feeling cramped.
  • A mosque that holds 1,500 people for daily prayers.
  • Air-conditioned stables for the Sultan's 200 polo ponies (because it's way too hot in Brunei for fancy horses to be sweating outside).
  • Five massive swimming pools.
  • A private heliport and a massive throne room used for official state ceremonies.

The interior design was handled by Khuan Chew, the same designer who did the Burj Al Arab in Dubai. This explains the heavy use of 38 different types of marble, massive amounts of silk, and, of course, the gold. Everything is gold. The door handles, the window frames, the tiles. It sounds tacky when you describe it, but in person, it’s meant to reflect the "Light of Faith," which is what Nurul Iman actually translates to.

The three-day window when you can actually get in

Most of the year, the Sultan of Brunei castle is a fortress. You see the guards, you see the massive gates, and that’s it. But every year, at the end of the Muslim fasting month of Ramadan, the Sultan opens the doors for a three-day celebration called Hari Raya.

It’s a wild experience.

Thousands of people line up in the heat. They get bused into the palace grounds. Once inside, you aren't just given a quick tour; you’re fed. The catering operation is legendary. They serve traditional Malay dishes on a scale that’s hard to fathom. After eating, visitors get to walk through the state rooms to meet the Sultan or other members of the royal family. Men meet the men; women meet the women. Everyone gets a small gift—usually a box of chocolates or a cake embossed with the royal seal—and the chance to shake hands with one of the world's last absolute monarchs.

It’s the one time the "castle" feels like a community hub rather than a private kingdom.

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Separating myth from reality: The car collection

You’ll see a lot of rumors online about the "Sultan's secret garage." Some people say the cars are rotting because of the humidity. Others say there are dozens of "ghost cars" that were ordered and never delivered.

The truth is a mix.

A significant portion of the collection is indeed kept at Istana Nurul Iman. In the 1990s, the Brunei royal family was basically single-handedly keeping companies like Rolls-Royce and Bentley in business. They would order ten or twenty of the same model, but each in a different custom color. They even had custom station wagon versions of the Ferrari 456 built—the "Venice" edition—because why not? While some cars have unfortunately suffered from the tropical climate over the decades, the palace staff includes a massive team of mechanics whose entire job is just maintaining this fleet.

It isn't just a "castle" for people; it’s a climate-controlled sanctuary for the most expensive machinery on earth.

The architectural blend: Modernism meets Melayu Islam Beraja

The design of the Sultan of Brunei castle is actually pretty clever if you look past the sheer opulence. Brunei follows a philosophy called MIB (Melayu Islam Beraja), which emphasizes Malay culture, Islamic faith, and the Monarchy.

Leandro Locsin didn't just build a square box. He used sweeping, curved roofs that mimic the traditional longhouses and royal barges found in Brunei’s history. The gold domes are a direct nod to Islamic architecture. It’s a hybrid. It looks modern—almost like a 1980s sci-fi vision of a palace—but it’s rooted in very old traditions. The palace sits on a hill, overlooking the "Water Village" (Kampong Ayer), where people have lived in houses on stilts for centuries.

The contrast is stark.

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On one side of the river, you have families living in traditional wooden homes over the water. On the other side, you have a 2-million-square-foot palace with gold-plated everything. Yet, in Brunei, the Sultan is generally viewed with immense respect. The wealth of the nation—driven by oil and gas—has provided the citizens with no income tax, free healthcare, and subsidized housing. The palace is seen less as an "us vs. them" symbol and more as the "house of the nation."

Tips for seeing the palace today

If you’re traveling to Brunei and want to see the Sultan of Brunei castle, you need to manage your expectations. You won't be getting a "behind-the-scenes" tour on a random Tuesday in October.

  1. Persiaran Damuan Park: This is the best spot for photos. It’s a landscaped park along the river. If you walk along the path, you get a clear view of the palace's gold domes peeking through the trees. It’s especially beautiful at sunset when the lights come on.
  2. The Water Taxi approach: Hire a local "tambang" (water taxi) from the Bandar waterfront. Ask the driver to take you upriver toward the Istana. They can’t get you onto the dock, but they can get you close enough to appreciate the massive scale of the retaining walls and the sheer length of the property.
  3. Plan for Hari Raya: If you really want to go inside, check the lunar calendar. The dates for Hari Raya shift every year. You’ll need to be in Brunei on the second, third, or fourth day of the celebration. Dress modestly—long sleeves and trousers/skirts are a must—and be prepared to wait in long lines. It’s a marathon, not a sprint.
  4. State Funerals and Events: Occasionally, the palace area is accessible during major state events, but these are rare and usually somber.

Honestly, even if you just see the gates, it’s worth the trip. There is something surreal about standing in front of a place that houses 1,700 rooms and knowing that one family lives there. It’s a remnant of a type of royalty that doesn't really exist anywhere else anymore.

Moving beyond the palace walls

Once you've seen the Sultan of Brunei castle, don't just leave Bandar Seri Begawan. The capital is small and walkable. You should check out the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque—it’s often cited as one of the most beautiful mosques in the Asia-Pacific. It’s surrounded by an artificial lagoon and features a replica of a 16th-century royal barge.

Also, make sure to take a boat into the mangroves. Just minutes away from the world's largest palace, you can find wild proboscis monkeys hanging out in the trees. It’s a bizarre, wonderful contrast: extreme human-made wealth on one side, and raw, untouched Borneo jungle on the other.

Brunei isn't a high-octane tourist destination like Bangkok or Singapore. It’s quiet. It’s dry (no alcohol is sold in the country). But for anyone fascinated by architecture, royalty, or just the sheer "weirdness" of absolute wealth, the Sultan's residence is the ultimate bucket-list item.


Next Steps for Your Visit:

  • Check the Calendar: Identify the dates for the next Hari Raya Aidilfitri if you intend to enter the palace.
  • Book a River Tour: Secure a local guide at the Bandar Seri Begawan waterfront for a sunset "Palace and Proboscis" boat ride.
  • Dress Code Check: Ensure you have modest clothing (covering shoulders and knees) if you plan on approaching the palace gates or visiting nearby mosques.