You’re standing at a self-checkout, clutching a slightly crumpled Hamilton, wondering if it's even worth the paper it’s printed on. Most people just see a tenner. They see lunch or a cheap movie ticket. But if you’ve got a 2013 10 dollar bill in your wallet, you might want to take a closer look before you feed it into that machine. It isn't just about the money; it’s about the math, the printing press, and a few weird quirks that collectors obsess over.
Money is weird. We think of it as a fixed value, but the numismatic market—that’s just a fancy word for coin and bill collecting—treats paper currency like trading cards. A standard 2013 series note is usually just worth ten bucks. However, because of how the Bureau of Engraving and Printing (BEP) handles their runs, some of these bills are actually "accidents" that escaped into the wild.
The Basics of the 2013 Series
The Series 2013 $10 note isn't a redesign. If you remember the big "colorized" shift back in 2006, this 2013 version follows that same aesthetic template. It features Alexander Hamilton on the front and the U.S. Treasury Building on the back. It’s got those subtle orange, yellow, and red background colors. It feels modern.
One thing people get wrong is the date. Just because a bill says "Series 2013" doesn't mean it was printed in 2013. It actually refers to when the Secretary of the Treasury took office or when a new signature was added. For this specific series, you'll see the signatures of Rosa Gumataotao Rios and Jacob Lew. These bills were actually pumped out of the presses between 2013 and 2017.
The BEP operates two main facilities: one in Washington, D.C., and one in Fort Worth, Texas. You can tell if yours is a Texas native by looking for a tiny "FW" in the corner. Does it matter? To most people, no. To a guy who spends his weekends looking at paper through a magnifying glass, it absolutely does.
Why Serial Numbers Change Everything
Let's talk about the "Fancy Serial Number." This is where the real money is. Most 2013 10 dollar bill notes have boring, random sequences of numbers. But every once in a while, the machine spits out something beautiful.
The Ladder
A "ladder" is a serial number that goes in order, like 12345678. These are incredibly rare. If you find a perfect ladder, you aren't looking at ten dollars anymore; you’re looking at hundreds, maybe even a thousand dollars depending on the condition. Even a "broken ladder" (numbers that are in order but scrambled) can fetch a premium.
Binary and Repeaters
A binary note only uses two numbers, like 01011001. A repeater is exactly what it sounds like: 45454545. These are the kinds of things that make collectors lose their minds on eBay. Why? Because it’s a statistical anomaly. Humans love patterns. We are wired to find order in chaos, and a repeating serial number is the ultimate "order" in a sea of random government debt.
Star Notes
Look at the serial number. Is there a little star at the end instead of a letter? That’s a Star Note. When the BEP ruins a sheet of bills during the printing process, they can't just print the same serial number again—that would mess up the accounting. So, they replace the botched sheet with a "Star Note" series.
For the 2013 10 dollar bill, star notes are relatively common compared to older series, but they still carry a premium. If the production run for that specific star note was small (under 640,000 bills), the value spikes. You can check "Star Note Lookup" sites to see if your specific bill comes from a rare run.
The Condition Myth
I’ve seen people find a cool serial number and then fold it into a paper crane. Don't do that. Honestly, the condition—or "grade"—of your bill is basically 90% of its value.
Paper money is fragile. Every time it's folded, the fibers break. A "Crisp Uncirculated" (CU) bill is exactly what it sounds like: it looks like it just hopped off the press. It’s stiff. It has sharp corners. If your 2013 10 dollar bill has a "bank teller flick" (that little crease from when they count money), the value drops. If it has a "center fold" from being in a wallet, it’s probably just worth ten dollars unless the serial number is truly insane.
Professional grading services like PMG (Paper Money Guaranty) or PCGS use a 70-point scale. A 70 is perfection. Most bills you find in your change are lucky to hit a 20 or 30.
Common Misconceptions About the 2013 Series
A lot of folks think that because the 2013 series is "old" now, it must be rare. It isn't. Billions of these were printed. It’s one of the workhorses of the American economy. You can't just keep a regular one in a drawer for ten years and expect to retire on it.
Another weird myth is the "error" bill. People see a slight ink smudge and think they’ve hit the jackpot. Most of the time, that’s just "post-printing damage" or minor ink bleed that doesn't count as a legitimate error. A real error is something like an "Inverted Overprint" where the serial numbers are upside down or on the wrong side of the bill. Those are rare. And they are worth a fortune.
Where to Sell and What to Look For
If you think you have a winner, don't go to a pawn shop first. They’ll offer you five bucks over face value and then flip it for fifty.
Instead, check "Sold" listings on eBay. Not the "Asking" price—anybody can ask for a million dollars for a tenner. Look at what people are actually paying. You’ll see that 2013 10 dollar bill star notes often sell for $15 to $25. It’s not "quit your job" money, but it’s a 150% return on investment just for looking at your change.
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- Check the Star: If there's a star, keep it aside.
- Inspect the Serial: Look for patterns (zeros, repeats, or sequences).
- Feel the Paper: If it's brand new and crisp, it's worth more than a limp, dirty note.
- Look for Alignment: Is the face of the bill centered? Large "registration" errors where the bill is cut off-center are highly collectible.
The Future of the Tenner
We’re eventually getting a new ten-dollar bill. There’s been talk for years about putting Harriet Tubman on currency, though the $20 bill is the primary target for that change. When a new design eventually drops, the 2013 series will slowly start to disappear from circulation as the Fed pulls in old, worn-out notes and shreds them.
That’s when the "common" bills start to become rare. But we are decades away from a standard 2013 $10 bill being worth more than ten dollars just because of its age. For now, the value is entirely in the mistakes and the serial numbers.
Practical Steps for the Casual Collector
If you want to start hunting, stop at the bank and ask for a strap of tens. A "strap" is 100 bills ($1,000). Flip through them. Look for the stars. Look for the binaries. It’s a low-risk hobby because, at the end of the day, you still have $1,000.
Keep your finds in "currency sleeves." These are PVC-free plastic holders that keep the oils from your skin off the paper. Don't use paper clips. Don't use tape. Just keep them flat and dry.
If you find something truly wild—like a double print or a serial number 00000001—get it professionally graded. The $30 or $40 you spend on grading will be made back ten times over when you go to sell it because the buyer will have peace of mind that it’s authentic.
Take a second and look at that Hamilton in your pocket right now. Check the serial. Check for the star. You might be holding a lot more than just ten dollars.
Next Steps for Your Currency Search:
- Verify the Star Note Rarity: Go to a dedicated star note lookup website and enter the serial number and series year (2013). This will tell you the exact size of the "run" your bill came from.
- Search for "Fancy Serial Number" Charts: Familiarize yourself with "Trinary," "Radar," and "Repeater" patterns so you can spot them in a split second.
- Secure Proper Storage: Purchase a pack of Mylar or PVC-free currency holders if you plan on keeping any notes for the long term to prevent environmental degradation.