You’re digging through an old dresser drawer or maybe flipping through a book your grandfather left you, and there it is. A crisp—or maybe crinkled—tenner with Alexander Hamilton’s face staring back. But something looks off. It feels older. You check the date. 1963. Suddenly, you’re wondering if you’ve just found a small fortune or just enough to buy a mediocre sandwich.
The 1963 ten dollar bill worth isn't always what people hope, but it’s rarely just ten bucks either. Honestly, the world of paper currency is weirdly specific. You can have two bills from the exact same year, and one is worth exactly ten dollars while the other might fetch fifty or even a hundred from the right collector. It basically comes down to three things: the color of the seal, the condition of the paper, and whether the serial number is doing something "cool."
The Red Seal vs. The Green Seal
If you look at your 1963 ten dollar bill, the first thing you need to check is the ink color on the right side. Most of these are Federal Reserve Notes with a green seal. These were the workhorses of the American economy. Because the Treasury printed millions of them, a standard green seal bill in "circulated" condition—meaning it’s been in wallets and vending machines—is usually only worth its face value of $10.
But wait.
If you see a red seal, things get more interesting. These are Legal Tender Notes (also called United States Notes). In 1963, the government was still issuing these, but in much smaller quantities than the green ones. Specifically, the 1963 $10 Legal Tender Note was the last of its kind. Collectors love a "last of" series. A red seal bill in decent shape usually starts at $15 to $20. If it looks like it just came off the press—sharp corners, no folds, vibrant ink—it can easily jump to $50 or $80.
Does the "A" Matter?
You might notice some bills say "Series 1963" while others say "Series 1963 A." People get hung up on this. Basically, the letter indicates a change in the Treasury Secretary or the Treasurer of the United States. For the 1963 series, the signatures belong to C. Douglas Dillon and Kathryn O'Hay Granahan. When Joseph W. Barr or Henry H. Fowler took over later, the series letter changed.
Does it make it rare? Not really.
The 1963 ten dollar bill worth doesn't fluctuate wildly just because of that "A." It’s more of a clerical marker for historians. However, if you have a 1963 bill with a star next to the serial number, stop what you're doing.
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The Magic of the Star Note
In the printing world, mistakes happen. If a sheet of bills is ruined during production, the Bureau of Engraving and Printing doesn't just print the same serial numbers again. They replace the sheet with "Star Notes." You’ll see a little five-pointed star at the beginning or end of the serial number.
These are rare.
For a 1963 ten dollar bill, a star note can double or triple the value instantly. Even a beat-up star note is usually worth at least $20 to $25. If you have a 1963 red seal star note in pristine condition? You’re looking at a piece of paper that collectors might pay $150 or more for at an auction. It’s all about the scarcity. There just aren't many left in the wild.
Condition is Everything (Seriously)
I can't stress this enough: "Crisp" is a technical term in the numismatic world.
If your bill has a "center fold"—literally one fold down the middle because someone put it in a wallet—the value drops. If it has "pinholes" from being tacked to a bar wall, the value drops. Collectors use a scale from 1 to 70. A bill that looks "okay" to you might be a "Fine 12" to a pro. A "Gem Uncirculated 65" is what brings in the big bucks.
Think about it like a vintage car. A 1963 Mustang is cool. But a 1963 Mustang with original paint, zero rust, and 50 miles on the odometer is a masterpiece. Paper money is the same. If the paper still "snaps" when you flick it, you’ve got something special. If it feels like a soft rag, it’s mostly just a curiosity.
Fancy Serial Numbers
Sometimes the date doesn't matter as much as the numbers. Collectors go nuts for "Fancy Serials." Even if your bill is a common green seal from 1963, check the numbers.
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- Radars: The number reads the same forward and backward (like 12344321).
- Low Numbers: Anything under 00001000.
- Solid: All the same digits (like 55555555).
- Ladders: Sequential numbers (12345678).
A 1963 ten dollar bill with a solid serial number could sell for $500 or more, regardless of the fact that millions of other 1963 bills are worth only ten bucks. It’s the "lottery ticket" of the currency world.
Why 1963 was a Transition Year
Historically, 1963 was a massive year for U.S. currency. It was the first year that Federal Reserve Notes (the ones we use today) were issued in $1 denominations. Before this, we had Silver Certificates. While the $10 bill had been a Federal Reserve Note for a long time, the 1963 series represents the peak of the old-school design before things started getting modernized and, frankly, uglier.
There's a nostalgia factor here. People like the way the 1963 bills look. They have that "Mad Men" era aesthetic. They feel like a piece of history you can actually hold.
Real Market Examples
Let’s look at some actual sales. You shouldn't trust every eBay listing you see—people list common bills for $5,000 hoping a sucker bites. Look at "Sold" listings instead.
A standard 1963 $10 Federal Reserve Note (Green Seal) in "Choice Uncirculated" condition recently sold for about $22. That’s double its face value, but after shipping and fees, the seller didn't exactly get rich.
Meanwhile, a 1963 $10 Red Seal (Legal Tender) graded as "Superb Gem Unc 67" by a professional service like PCGS or PMG can go for $120. The gap is huge.
How to Protect Your Bill
If you think you have a winner, don't put it in a plastic sandwich bag. The PVC in cheap plastic can actually leach into the paper over time and ruin the ink. Buy a PVC-free currency sleeve. They cost about fifty cents.
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Also, never, ever try to "clean" the bill. Don't iron it to get the wrinkles out. Don't use a literal eraser to take off a smudge. Collectors want original paper. An ironed bill looks "shiny" and "flat" in a way that professionals can spot instantly, and it destroys the value.
Actionable Next Steps
Check the seal color first. If it's red, you're starting ahead of the game. If it's green, it needs to be perfect or have a star/fancy serial number to be worth more than ten dollars.
Check for a star at the end of the serial number. This is the easiest way to spot a "rare" version of a common bill.
Look at the corners. Are they rounded or sharp? Sharp corners are the hallmark of high-value notes.
Search eBay "Sold" listings for "1963 $10 bill [Seal Color] Star" to see what people are actually paying this week. Prices fluctuate based on the economy and how many people are currently into the hobby.
If you think the bill is worth more than $100, consider getting it "graded." Companies like PMG (Paper Money Guaranty) will verify its authenticity and give it a numeric grade. This makes it much easier to sell to serious collectors because they know exactly what they are buying.
Don't spend it at a self-checkout. Those machines don't care about red seals or star notes. They just see ten dollars. If you're going to get rid of it, at least take it to a local coin shop. They’ll usually give you a fair wholesale price if it’s actually worth something. Otherwise, keep it. It's a cool conversation piece from a year that changed America forever.