You’re digging through an old shoebox or maybe you found a crisp note tucked inside a book from your grandfather’s library, and there it is. Alexander Hamilton is staring back at you, but the bill looks... different. It’s a 1950 series b ten dollar bill. It feels thicker than the plastic-y stuff in your wallet today. The green is deeper. The seals look more like stamps than digital prints.
Honestly, most people see that "1950" date and think they’ve hit a four-figure jackpot. I hate to be the bearer of reality, but usually, that isn’t the case. Most of these bills are worth exactly ten bucks. But—and this is a big "but"—there are specific versions of this exact note that collectors will fight over at an auction. It all comes down to the signatures, the condition, and whether or not there’s a tiny star next to the serial number.
What Makes the 1950 Series B Ten Dollar Bill Different?
The 1950 series wasn't actually printed in 1950. That’s the first thing that trips people up. In the world of U.S. currency, the "Series" year refers to when the design was first authorized or when a major change occurred, like a new Secretary of the Treasury taking office. The "B" indicates that this is the second significant revision of the 1950 design.
Specifically, the 1950 series b ten dollar bill carries the signatures of Elizabeth Rudel Smith and C. Douglas Dillon. Smith was the Treasurer of the United States, and Dillon was the Secretary of the Treasury. They held these roles in the early 1960s. So, your "1950" bill was likely printed between 1961 and 1962. It’s a Kennedy-era relic masquerading as a mid-century piece.
The design is classic Federal Reserve Note. You have Hamilton on the front and the U.S. Treasury building on the back. Back then, we didn't have the "giant head" portraits or the color-shifting ink. It was all about fine-line engraving and that distinct smell of linen and cotton.
The Federal Reserve Districts
If you look at the circular seal on the left side of the bill, you’ll see a letter. This tells you which Federal Reserve Bank issued the note. For the 1950 B series, notes were issued across the different districts like New York (B), Chicago (G), or San Francisco (L).
Is one district rarer than others? Sometimes. But for this specific series, the print runs were generally high. The Bureau of Engraving and Printing was churning these out by the millions. For a collector to care about a New York bill over a Dallas bill, it usually has to be in "Choice Uncirculated" condition. We’re talking no folds, no rounded corners, and paper so crisp it could cut you.
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Why Some 1950 B Tens Are Worth Way More Than Face Value
Condition is king. It’s a cliché because it’s true.
If you take your 1950 series b ten dollar bill to a local coffee shop, the teenager behind the counter might think it’s fake because it doesn’t have a security thread. Please don't do that. Even a beat-up 1950 B is worth at least its face value. But if it’s "Fine" or "Very Fine" (meaning it’s been in pockets but isn't torn), you might get $12 to $15 from a collector.
Now, if you have a "Star Note," things get interesting.
Check the serial number. Is there a little five-pointed star at the end instead of a letter? That’s a replacement note. When the printing press messed up a sheet of bills, they couldn't just print the same serial numbers again easily. They replaced the bad sheet with a "star" sheet. These are much rarer. A 1950 series b ten dollar bill with a star can easily fetch $30 to $50 in average condition. If it’s uncirculated? You might be looking at $100 or more.
Small Size vs. Large Size Misconceptions
I’ve had people ask if these are "large size" notes. They aren't. The U.S. switched from those massive "horse blankets" to the current small size in 1928. By 1950, the dimensions were exactly what you see today.
What did change was the wording. If you look closely at the top of the bill, it says "Federal Reserve Note." It also says it is legal tender for all debts, public and private. Unlike older Silver Certificates, you couldn't take this to a bank and demand a handful of silver coins for it. By the time the B series was circulating, we were firmly in the era of fiat currency backed by the "full faith and credit" of the government.
How to Grade Your Bill at Home
You don't need a magnifying glass and a tuxedo to figure out if your bill is worth keeping. Just use your eyes and a bright light.
Hold the bill up to a lamp. Are there pinholes? Those usually happen when someone pinned cash to the inside of a coat or used a paperclip for decades. Pinholes kill the value. Look at the center fold. If the paper is starting to break or looks white and fuzzy along the crease, it’s a "circulated" note.
Collectors use a scale from 1 to 70.
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- VG 8 (Very Good): Heavily handled but whole. No big chunks missing.
- VF 20 (Very Fine): Some folds, maybe a little dirt, but still has some "snap" to the paper.
- CU 63 (Uncirculated): No folds. Sharp corners. It looks like it just came off the press.
Most 1950 B tens found in the wild are in the VG to VF range. They are cool pieces of history, but they aren't going to pay for your retirement. However, if you find a sequential pack of them—meaning the serial numbers are all in a row—that is a huge find. Collectors love sequences because it proves the bills never entered circulation.
The Secret Language of Serial Numbers
Beyond the star notes, keep an eye out for "fancy" serial numbers. This is a niche part of the hobby that has exploded lately.
- Radars: The number reads the same forward and backward (e.g., 12344321).
- Low Numbers: Anything under 00001000.
- Repeaters: Numbers that repeat (e.g., 45454545).
If your 1950 series b ten dollar bill has a radar serial number and a star, you’ve actually found something worth a few hundred dollars. It’s like winning a very specific, historical lottery.
Where to Sell or Appraise Your Bill
Don't just run to a pawn shop. They’ll offer you six dollars for a ten dollar bill because they have to make a profit and most of them don't know currency specifics.
Instead, look for an authorized PCGS (Professional Coin Grading Service) or PMG (Paper Money Guaranty) dealer. Even just browsing eBay "Sold" listings—not the active ones, but the ones that actually finished—will give you a realistic idea of what people are paying. Look for "1950B $10 Federal Reserve Note" in the search bar.
A Note on Modern Scams
Lately, I've seen "unsearched" lots of old currency for sale online. Be careful. Usually, someone has already gone through those bills and pulled out the stars, the high grades, and the fancy serials. What’s left is the "filler" stuff. If you want a 1950 series b ten dollar bill for your collection, buy a specific, individual note where you can see the scan of the front and back.
Practical Steps for Owners
If you're holding one of these right now, here is exactly what you should do to preserve its value, whether it's $10 or $100.
First, stop touching it with your bare hands if it’s crisp. The oils on your skin can yellow the paper over time. Buy a PVC-free plastic sleeve (often called a "currency holder"). They cost about fifty cents at a hobby shop. Don't use a regular envelope; the acid in the paper can cause "toning" or browning.
Second, do not iron it. I know it sounds crazy, but people try to iron out folds to make a bill look uncirculated. Professionals can spot "pressed" notes instantly. It ruins the natural embossing of the ink and actually lowers the grade.
Third, check the seal color. The 1950 B series should have a green seal. If you ever find a ten dollar bill from that era with a blue seal or a red seal, stop everything. You’re looking at a Silver Certificate or a United States Note, which are entirely different animals and often carry a higher premium.
Keep that bill flat, keep it dry, and keep it out of the sun. Even if it’s only worth fifteen dollars today, it’s a tangible link to the early 60s—an era of Mad Men, the Space Race, and a very different American economy.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Examine the Serial Number: Look for a star symbol at the end or a "fancy" pattern like a radar or repeater.
- Verify the Signatures: Ensure the names Smith and Dillon appear at the bottom; if not, you have a different series (like 1950, 1950A, or 1950C).
- Check for "Folds of Death": If the bill has a heavy vertical and horizontal fold (a "cross-fold"), the value is likely capped near face value.
- Store Properly: Place the note in a PVC-free currency sleeve to prevent further degradation from humidity or skin oils.
- Research Recent Sales: Use the "Sold" filter on major auction sites to see what similar condition notes from your specific Federal Reserve Bank (the letter in the seal) are fetching this month.