You’re standing in the stationery aisle, or maybe you’re scrolling through a boutique online shop, and you see a ream of paper that costs three times more than the stuff at the big-box store. You wonder: is the paper good? It feels like a simple question. It isn't. Most of us grew up thinking paper is just paper, but the moment you try to use a fountain pen on cheap copy paper and the ink feathers into a blurry mess, you realize there’s a massive world of difference.
Paper quality is a rabbit hole. Honestly, it’s one of those things where once you see the difference, you can’t unsee it. We aren't just talking about "thick" or "thin." We’re talking about "tooth," "sizing," "opacity," and "grammage."
What We Actually Mean When We Ask: Is the Paper Good?
When someone asks if a specific paper is good, they’re usually looking for one of three things. They want to know if it will bleed, if it feels premium, or if it will last.
Let's look at the "bleed" factor. If you’re a fountain pen enthusiast or an artist using markers, "good" paper means it has high sizing. Sizing is a chemical treatment applied during manufacturing—either to the surface or within the pulp—that regulates how much liquid the paper absorbs. Without enough sizing, the ink just soaks in and spreads out. It looks like you're writing on a paper towel.
On the flip side, a sketch artist might want something with a lot of "tooth." This is the texture of the paper. If you’re using charcoal or graphite, you actually want a surface that’s a bit rough so it can grab the pigment off the pencil. In that context, a smooth, glassy sheet of Clairefontaine paper—which is objectively "high quality"—would actually be "bad" because the charcoal would just slide around.
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The Weight Myth: Why GSM Isn't Everything
People love to talk about GSM (Grams per Square Meter). They think a higher number automatically means better quality. That’s a trap. While a 120gsm paper is thicker and more opaque than a standard 80gsm office sheet, weight doesn't tell you anything about the fiber source or the finish.
I’ve handled 60gsm Tomoe River paper that is legendary among writers. It’s thin. It’s almost translucent. You can see the writing on the other side. But is the paper good? Absolutely. It’s arguably some of the best paper in the world because it handles ink better than cardstock twice its weight.
Breaking down the common weights:
- 70-90 gsm: Your standard office paper. Fine for ballpoints and lasers. Usually terrible for anything else.
- 100-120 gsm: The sweet spot for premium notebooks like Leuchtturm1917 or Moleskine (though Moleskine is notoriously hit-or-miss with ink).
- 160 gsm: This is the "bullet journal" standard. It’s thick enough that you can use watercolor or heavy markers without it showing through on the back.
- 300 gsm+: This is basically cardstock or heavy watercolor paper.
The Acid Problem Nobody Mentions
If you are a scrapbooker or someone trying to archive important documents, the biggest indicator of whether the paper is good is its pH level.
Cheap paper is made from wood pulp that contains lignin. Over time, lignin breaks down and creates acid. This is why old newspapers turn yellow and get brittle. If you’re printing a family photo or writing a journal for your grandkids, and you use acidic paper, that thing is going to crumble. Always look for "Acid-Free" or "Archival Quality." This usually means the lignin has been removed and the paper has been buffered with calcium carbonate to keep it stable for centuries.
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Real Examples: Is the Paper Good in These Popular Brands?
Let’s get specific. It’s easier to understand quality when you look at the big players.
Rhoda and Clairefontaine: These are the gold standards for smoothness. They use a proprietary coating that makes the surface feel almost like plastic. If you love the feeling of a pen gliding with zero resistance, this paper is "good." If you hate long dry times—because the ink sits on top of the coating instead of soaking in—you’ll hate it.
Moleskine: This is the most controversial brand in the paper world. Honestly, for the price, the paper is often mediocre. It’s prone to "feathering" where the ink spreads out in little branches. People buy it for the brand and the binding, but strictly speaking, the paper quality is inconsistent.
Midori MD: This is a Japanese paper that hits a middle ground. it has a slight texture—a "feedback"—that feels like you’re actually writing on something real. It’s cream-colored, which is easier on the eyes than blinding white.
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The Environmental Cost of "Good" Paper
We can't talk about quality without talking about where it comes from. Is the paper good if it destroys a forest?
Look for the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certification. This ensures the wood pulp comes from responsibly managed forests. There’s also a growing market for alternative fibers. Bamboo paper is surprisingly soft and sustainable. Stone paper (made from calcium carbonate and resin) is waterproof and incredibly smooth, though it’s a bit weird to write on because it feels "rubbery."
How to Test Paper at Home
If you have a stack of paper and you're wondering if it's worth your time, there are three quick tests you can do.
- The Scratch Test: Run your fingernail across the surface. Does it leave a deep groove or does it resist? Stronger fibers (like cotton) will resist.
- The Light Test: Hold the sheet up to a window. Look for "clumping." High-quality paper has an even distribution of fibers. If it looks blotchy or "cloudy," the pulp wasn't mixed well, leading to inconsistent writing spots.
- The "Slap" Test: Hold a corner and flick the paper. Does it make a sharp crack or a dull thud? A sharp sound usually indicates shorter, denser fibers and better coating.
Why 100% Cotton is the Secret Boss
If you want the absolute best, you look for cotton. Traditional paper is wood. Premium paper is cotton. It’s more durable, it absorbs ink in a way that looks vibrant rather than dull, and it feels like fabric. This is what professional legal documents and high-end stationery are made of. It’s expensive, sure, but the tactile experience is unmatched.
Practical Steps for Your Next Purchase
Stop buying based on the cover art of the notebook. That’s how they get you. Instead, look at the technical specs usually hidden on the back or the bottom of the packaging.
- Check the GSM: Aim for at least 100gsm for general writing, 160gsm if you use markers.
- Identify the Finish: "Vellum" is slightly rough; "Wove" is smooth; "Laid" has visible horizontal and vertical lines.
- Look for Sizing: If it says "fountain pen friendly," it has high sizing.
- Verify the pH: Ensure it's acid-free if you want it to last more than 10 years.
- Source: Look for FSC certification or recycled content if sustainability is your priority.
Next time you ask "is the paper good," remember that it depends entirely on your tool. A $50 ream of cotton paper is "bad" for a laser printer because it might jam or soak up too much toner. Match the paper to the purpose. Pay attention to how the pen feels against the surface. That’s the real secret to finding "good" paper—it’s about the friction between your hand and the page.