You're standing on the platform at Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal. It’s hot. The air is thick with that specific mix of diesel fumes and street food scents wafting in from the nearby markets. You’ve got a ticket in your hand for the overnight train Bangkok Chiang Mai, and honestly, you’re probably wondering if you should’ve just booked a one-hour flight and been done with it.
I get it.
But there is something about the "Special Express" that hits differently. It isn't just a commute; it is a rite of passage for anyone traveling through Thailand. It's the rhythmic clack-clack of the rails. It's the way the city lights of Bangkok slowly melt into the deep, ink-black jungles of Central Thailand. By the time you wake up and pull back the heavy curtains of your bunk, you’re winding through the misty mountains of Khun Tan National Park.
It's magic. Mostly.
The Reality of the #9 and #10 Special Express CNR
If you’re looking for the "fancy" train, you’re looking for Train No. 9 (outbound to Chiang Mai) or Train No. 10 (inbound to Bangkok). These are the Chinese-made CNR (China Railway Rolling Stock Corporation) carriages introduced around 2016. They are the gold standard for the overnight train Bangkok Chiang Mai route.
Don't expect the Orient Express.
It’s clean, it’s modern, and the air conditioning is powerful enough to preserve a side of beef. Seriously, bring a hoodie. The seats are wide, purple, and surprisingly comfortable. Around 8:00 PM, the stewards come around with a mechanical efficiency that is honestly kind of terrifying. In about thirty seconds, they flip your seat, pull down the top berth, and whip out fresh, plastic-wrapped linens.
Why the Lower Bunk is Non-Negotiable
Here is a pro-tip that will save your sleep: Book the lower bunk. The lower bunk is wider. It has a window. You can watch the world go by without craning your neck. More importantly, it doesn’t feel like you’re sleeping in a coffin. The upper bunk is narrower, closer to the bright fluorescent lights that never actually turn off, and lacks a window. It’s also cheaper, which is fine if you're on a shoestring, but for the sake of a few hundred Baht, just get the lower one. Trust me.
Booking is a Nightmare (But It Doesn't Have To Be)
State Railway of Thailand (SRT) has an official website. It’s... okay.
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The problem is that tickets for the overnight train Bangkok Chiang Mai sell out almost instantly, especially for the #9 and #10 trains. They open bookings 30 days in advance (though this window occasionally fluctuates based on SRT policy shifts). If you’re trying to book a First Class cabin—where you get your own private room and a tiny sink—you basically need to be clicking "refresh" the second the clock strikes 8:30 AM Thai time.
Honestly? Most people use 12Go Asia or Baolau. These agencies charge a small fee, but they physically go to the station or use a direct API to snag the seats the moment they open. It saves you the headache of the SRT's temperamental payment gateway.
If you're a solo traveler, First Class is a bit of a gamble. If you don't book the whole room, you might end up sharing a tiny cabin with a complete stranger. If that sounds awkward, just stick to Second Class. It’s social but private enough once the curtains are drawn.
The "Food Situation" and the Loss of the Dining Car
We need to talk about the food.
There used to be a legendary dining car on the overnight train Bangkok Chiang Mai. It had wobbly tables, beer, and surprisingly decent green curry. Since the pandemic and various policy changes, the dining car experience has been gutted. On the newer #9 and #10 trains, it’s mostly pre-packaged microwave meals.
It’s fine. It’s edible. It’s not great.
Do what the locals do: Pack a feast.
Hit up the food court at Krung Thep Aphiwat or grab some sticky rice and grilled pork (moo ping) from a street vendor before you head to the station. Having a cold water and a bag of tropical fruit next to your bunk at 2:00 AM is a total game-changer. Just remember: Alcohol is officially banned on Thai trains. Don't be that person trying to hide a Chang bottle under the pillow; the fines are real and the staff does check.
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Logistics: Getting to the Right Station
Bangkok changed things up a couple of years ago. Most long-distance trains no longer leave from the beautiful, historic Hua Lamphong station in Chinatown. Instead, you're heading to Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (formerly known as Bang Sue Grand Station).
It is massive. It feels like an airport.
You can get there easily via the MRT Blue Line. Just follow the signs for "Long Distance Trains." There are plenty of staff members in red uniforms who can point you toward the right gate. Give yourself at least 45 minutes before departure. The station is enormous, and walking from the MRT to your platform can take longer than you think.
The Morning Reveal: Why We Do This
The first ten hours of the journey are mostly dark. You sleep. You listen to the hum of the rails.
But then, around 6:00 AM, something happens.
The train starts to slow down. The engine grunts as it begins the climb into the mountains of Northern Thailand. This is the moment you pull back the curtain. You’ll see limestone karsts draped in jungle, small villages waking up with woodsmoke rising from chimneys, and the bright yellow sunflowers of the northern plains.
Passing through the Khun Tan Tunnel—the longest rail tunnel in Thailand—is a highlight. When you emerge on the other side, the air feels different. It’s cooler. It’s crisper. You’re not in the concrete sprawl of Bangkok anymore.
Is First Class Actually Better?
I get asked this a lot.
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First Class on the overnight train Bangkok Chiang Mai gives you a private cabin with two berths (upper and lower). You get a personal touch-screen monitor that rarely works and a sink. You can even pay a bit extra to have the whole cabin to yourself if you're a solo traveler.
Is it worth the 1,500+ Baht?
If you value privacy and have a partner, yes. If you’re alone, Second Class is actually more "authentic." There’s a communal vibe in Second Class that you lose behind the closed doors of a cabin. Plus, the Second Class beds are genuinely comfortable. I’ve had some of my best travel sleeps on those purple seats.
Common Misconceptions and Pitfalls
- "The train is always late." Actually, since the move to the new terminal, the #9 and #10 trains have been surprisingly punctual. Don't count on a 10-minute precision like in Japan, but the "6-hour delay" stories are mostly a thing of the past.
- "It’s cheaper than flying." Not necessarily. If you book a budget flight on AirAsia or Thai Lion Air months in advance, it might be cheaper than a First Class train ticket. You take the train for the experience and to save on one night of a hotel bill, not just to save pennies.
- "The toilets are gross." On the newer CNR trains, the toilets are actually vacuum-flush (like on a plane) and kept quite clean. There are even showers in First Class, though the water is lukewarm at best.
What to Pack for the Journey
Don't just wing it. A few items will make your life significantly better:
- A Power Bank: While the new trains have USB ports and plugs, they sometimes lose power or charge slowly.
- Noise-Canceling Headphones: Trains are noisy. People snore. The announcements can be loud.
- Layers: I mentioned the AC earlier. I'm serious. It's cold.
- Toiletries: Wet wipes, a toothbrush, and a small towel. You’ll want to freshen up before rolling into Chiang Mai at 7:00 AM.
- Offline Entertainment: The 4G/5G signal is spotty at best once you hit the mountains. Download your podcasts or movies beforehand.
Arriving in Chiang Mai
The train usually pulls into Chiang Mai station early in the morning. As soon as you step off, you’ll be swarmed by songthaew (red truck) drivers.
Don't panic.
A ride to the Old City should cost you around 30-50 Baht per person in a shared truck. If they ask for 200 Baht, they’re looking for a private charter. Just walk past the first line of drivers to the main road if you want the standard local rate. Or, just pull up Grab or Bolt on your phone. It works perfectly in Chiang Mai and eliminates the haggling.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
To make the most of the overnight train Bangkok Chiang Mai, follow this checklist:
- Check the Calendar: Set a reminder for exactly 30 days before your travel date. If you're traveling during Songkran (April) or Yi Peng (November), you need to book the minute sales open.
- Pick Your Train: Aim for Train #9. It’s the newest equipment. If that's sold out, Train #7 (Special Express Diesel Railcar) is faster but only has seats, no beds. Train #13 is the older "Special Express" with the classic older sleepers—it's bunk-style but a bit more "vintage" (read: worn down).
- Download the "D-Ticket" App: This is the SRT’s official app. It’s a bit clunky, but it’s the most direct way to see real-time seat availability.
- Select the Left Side: When traveling North (Bangkok to Chiang Mai), the views during the final two hours of the trip are generally better on the left side of the train as you face forward.
- Pack Light for the Bunk: Space is tight. Keep your essentials in a small daypack that you can tuck into your bunk. Your large suitcase will stay at the end of the bed or in the luggage rack, but you won't want to be digging through it in the middle of the night.
The overnight train is a bridge between two different Thailands. You leave the frantic, vertical energy of Bangkok and wake up in the horizontal, soulful landscape of the North. It’s slow travel at its best. If you have the time, skip the airport. Buy the ticket. Take the ride.