First things first. There is technically no such thing as an Apple iMac laptop 2017. I know, I know—people search for it that way all the time because Apple's naming conventions can get a little blurry if you aren't a total spec-head. You're likely thinking of either the 2017 MacBook Pro or perhaps the slim 12-inch MacBook that was kicking around back then. Or maybe you're looking at the 2017 iMac desktop and wondering if it’s portable enough to lug around (spoiler: it isn't).
Let's get into the weeds of what happened in 2017.
It was a weird year for Apple. They were doubling down on the "thin at all costs" philosophy. This gave us the butterfly keyboard, a piece of engineering that became the bane of many writers' existences. Honestly, if you're looking at a 2017-era Apple portable, you’re looking at a machine that sits right on the edge of "classic" and "obsolete."
The Reality of the 2017 Hardware
If we assume you're hunting for a 2017 MacBook Pro, you're looking at the seventh-generation Intel Core processors (Kaby Lake). At the time, these were snappy. Today? They’re dual-core or quad-core chips trying to survive in a world of 8-core silicon.
The 13-inch model usually came with an i5 or i7. It was fine for Chrome tabs and some light Photoshop work. But if you try to render 4K video on a 2017-era "iMac laptop" style machine now, you’re going to hear the fans kick up like a jet engine taking off from Heathrow.
That Infamous Keyboard
We have to talk about it. The butterfly switches.
Apple wanted the laptops to be impossibly thin. To do that, they scrapped the traditional "scissor" mechanism under the keys. The result was a keyboard with almost zero travel. It felt like typing on a glass table. More importantly, a single grain of dust could—and often did—render a key useless. While Apple had a repair program for years, those programs have largely expired. Buying one now is a gamble. You might get a crisp typer, or you might get a "B" key that registers twice every time you touch it.
Screen Quality and the Retina Legacy
One thing Apple didn't mess up was the display. Even the 2017 models featured the P3 wide color gamut.
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If you're a photographer on a budget, the screen on a 2017 MacBook Pro is still better than 90% of the brand-new budget laptops you'd find at a big-box store today. It's bright (500 nits). It's sharp. The colors are accurate.
But there’s a catch.
Flexgate. Some units from this era suffered from a stage-lighting effect at the bottom of the screen because the internal ribbon cables were too short. Over time, opening and closing the lid would fray the cable. It’s a costly fix. If you see vertical lines or weird spotting at the bottom of the display on a used listing, run away. Fast.
Port Selection: The Dongle Life
In 2017, Apple was all-in on USB-C. The 13-inch non-Touch Bar model had two ports. The Touch Bar models had four.
You’ll need adapters for everything. SD cards? Adapter. HDMI? Adapter. Old-school mouse? Adapter. It was a bold move at the time, and while the world has mostly moved to USB-C now, it still feels restrictive compared to the newer 2021-and-later models that brought back the HDMI port and SD slot.
Battery Life in the Modern Era
Lithium-ion batteries are like athletes; they have a shelf life. A laptop from 2017 is nearly a decade old. Unless the previous owner had the battery replaced by Apple, it’s probably sitting at 50% of its original capacity.
You’ll likely get three or four hours of actual work done before needing a wall outlet.
Software Support: The Final Boss
This is where the "Apple iMac laptop 2017" conversation gets tricky. Apple eventually stops supporting older hardware with the latest macOS updates.
As of now, the 2017 MacBook Pros are largely cut off from the newest versions of macOS (like Sonoma or Sequoia). You can still use them, of course. They’ll run Ventura or Monterey just fine. But you’ll miss out on the latest security patches and features. There are workarounds like OpenCore Legacy Patcher, which allows you to install newer OS versions on "unsupported" Macs, but that’s really for the hobbyists who don’t mind a little troubleshooting.
Why Anyone Still Buys These
Price.
You can find these machines on the used market for a fraction of what a new MacBook Air costs. If you’re a student who just needs to write essays and watch Netflix, it’s a tempting deal. The build quality—the actual aluminum chassis—still feels more premium than a cheap plastic Windows laptop.
The trackpad is also massive and still the best in the business. No one does haptic feedback like Apple.
A Quick Comparison of 2017 Models
- 12-inch MacBook: Super portable. Only one port. Terrible performance for anything but basic web browsing. Avoid if you value your sanity.
- 13-inch MacBook Pro (No Touch Bar): The "Function Key" model. Generally more reliable than the Touch Bar version, but still has the keyboard issues.
- 15-inch MacBook Pro: Has a dedicated graphics card (AMD Radeon Pro). Actually decent for light video editing even today, but they run very hot.
Finding the Right Price Point
If you're paying more than $250 or $300 for a 2017-era Apple laptop, you're probably overpaying. At that point, you're getting dangerously close to the price of a used MacBook Air with the M1 chip (2020).
The jump from Intel to M1 was the biggest leap in Apple's history.
An M1 Air will outperform a 2017 "laptop" in every single metric: battery life, heat management, speed, and longevity. Honestly, if you can swing the extra $150, get the M1. It’s a night-and-day difference.
Technical Maintenance Tips
If you already own one or just bought one, there are a few things you should do to keep it alive.
First, get a compressed air can. Use it on the keyboard regularly. Don't let crumbs get under those butterfly switches. Second, check your cycle count. Click the Apple logo > About This Mac > System Report > Power. If the cycle count is over 1,000, your battery is on its deathbed.
Also, keep an eye on your storage. The 2017 Pro models often came with 128GB or 256GB SSDs. That fills up incredibly fast with modern apps. You can't upgrade the RAM, but on the non-Touch Bar 13-inch model, the SSD is actually a proprietary removable module. It's rare for Apple, but you can actually swap it if you have the right tools.
The Verdict
The 2017 era was a transition period. It was Apple trying to figure out the future, and they tripped a few times along the way. While the hardware is beautiful, the technical flaws—keyboard reliability and thermal throttling—make it a tough recommendation for a primary computer in 2026.
It’s a "budget" entry into the ecosystem, but it comes with baggage.
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If you find one for a steal and you’re aware of the risks, go for it. But for most people, looking just a few years newer will save a lot of headaches.
Actionable Next Steps for Buyers
- Verify the Model: Confirm if you are looking at a 13-inch or 15-inch MacBook Pro, or the ultra-thin 12-inch MacBook. Avoid the 12-inch model for anything beyond basic typing.
- Check the Serial Number: Use Apple’s "Check Coverage" website to see the exact manufacturing date and if any service history is recorded.
- Inspect the Keyboard: Before buying, open a text document and type every single key. Look for "double-typing" or keys that don't register.
- Test the Screen: Crank the brightness to 100% and look for vertical lines at the bottom or uneven "spotlight" lighting.
- Compare with M1: Look at the price of a used 2020 M1 MacBook Air. If the difference is less than $200, the M1 is a significantly better investment for longevity and performance.
- Battery Health: If buying used, ask the seller for a screenshot of the battery cycle count and "Condition" (it should say "Normal").