You're looking at a decade-old electric car. It sounds like a gamble, right? People will tell you that the 2014 Tesla Model S is a ticking time bomb of battery degradation and screen yellowing. They aren’t entirely wrong. But they aren't entirely right either.
Back in 2014, the automotive world was a different place. The Model S was the undisputed king of the hill, a "disruptor" before that word became an annoying board-room cliché. If you bought one back then, you were basically a pioneer. You were paying six figures for a car that didn't have door pockets or a center console as standard equipment. It was weird. It was fast. It changed everything.
But now? You can find these for the price of a used Honda Civic.
The question isn't just "can you afford it," but "can you live with it?" Owning a 2014 Model S today is a unique experience. It’s part luxury cruiser, part rolling computer experiment, and part vintage tech. Honestly, it’s one of the most polarizing used cars on the market.
The Battery and Motor Reality: Range vs. Reality
Let's talk about the 85kWh pack. It was the gold standard. In 2014, the 85kWh version was rated for about 265 miles of range. If you buy one today, you aren't getting 265 miles. Lithium-ion batteries degrade. It's chemistry. You might see 220 miles on a full charge if the previous owner was gentle. If they Supercharged it every single day for ten years? Expect less.
You’ve got to watch out for the "B" pack versus the "E" pack. Early 85kWh batteries had different internal chemistry and cooling. Some owners reported significant "v-maxing"—a software-induced limit on charging speeds and capacity that Tesla implemented to protect aging cells. It was a whole thing. A lawsuit even happened.
Then there's the drive unit. The early 2014 builds were notorious for the "milling sound." It sounds like a faint high-pitched circular saw. It’s usually the internal bearings failing due to coolant leaks or electrical discharge. Tesla replaced thousands of these under warranty, but those warranties are mostly gone now. If you hear a hum, run. Or, at least, factor a $5,000–$7,000 motor replacement into your budget.
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But here’s the kicker: the performance still holds up. A P85+ (the Performance trim with upgraded suspension) still feels violently quick off the line. It doesn't have the "Ludicrous" mode of the later P90D or P100D models, but it’ll still pin your head to the seat.
That Infamous 17-Inch Screen
Everything goes through the screen. Everything. If the screen dies, you can't even adjust the air conditioning. In the 2014 Tesla Model S, the Media Control Unit (MCU1) was powered by an NVIDIA Tegra chip. The eMMC flash memory card had a habit of wearing out. Basically, the car would write logs to the chip until it literally died of exhaustion.
Tesla eventually offered a recall and a paid upgrade to MCU2. If you are shopping for one of these, check the "Software" tab in the settings. If it says "NVIDIA Tegra," you're on the old, laggy hardware. If it says "Intel Atom," the previous owner paid $2,000 to upgrade it. Get the Intel one. It makes the maps smoother, the browser actually works, and the car feels five years newer.
Free Supercharging: The "Golden Ticket"
This is the main reason anyone still looks at a 2014 model. Most 2014 Tesla Model S cars came with "Free Unlimited Supercharging for life." Crucially, this usually stays with the car, not the owner (Option Code SC01).
Think about that.
If you drive 15,000 miles a year, you are essentially getting free fuel for the life of the vehicle. For people who live in apartments without home charging or those who do frequent road trips, this is huge. It basically pays for the car's depreciation over time. However, be careful with cars sold by third-party dealers or those that passed through Tesla’s own used inventory; sometimes Tesla "strips" the free charging code (changing it to SC05 or SC04) when they resell it themselves.
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Always verify the charging status by logging into the Tesla app or looking at the "Additional Vehicle Information" screen on the dash. Don't take a salesperson's word for it.
Build Quality: The "Hand-Built" Feeling (And Not in a Good Way)
Tesla was still figuring out how to be a car company in 2014. These cars were basically hand-assembled in Fremont. Panel gaps are a real thing. Door handles? They’re cool because they present themselves when you walk up, but the 2014 version used Gen 2 handles that break. Constantly. A tiny paddle gear inside snaps, or a wire shears. You’ll know it’s broken when the handle stays tucked in or stays stuck out like a sore thumb.
The interior is... minimalist. Some call it "clean," others call it "cheap for a $100k car." You won't find the plush leather of a Mercedes S-Class here. The seats in the 2014 models are the "Gen 1" seats—basically flat benches compared to the "Next Gen" seats introduced late that year. They aren't great for long trips. Your lower back will tell you all about it after three hours on the interstate.
Also, check the sunroof. The 2014 model had a massive panoramic opening. It’s gorgeous. It also leaks if the drains aren't cleared. If you see water stains on the Alcantara headliner near the A-pillars, that’s a red flag.
Autopilot: Or Lack Thereof
Here is a major point of confusion. Not every 2014 Tesla Model S has Autopilot hardware. Tesla started installing the hardware (AP1) in September 2014. If the car was built in June 2014, it doesn't have it. It will never have it. It’s just a "dumb" cruise control car.
How do you tell the difference? Look at the front bumper. If there is a small rectangular radar housing in the lower intake and a camera housing at the top of the windshield, you have AP1. This system, developed with Mobileye, is actually still very good at lane-centering on the highway. It’s arguably smoother than some of the newer "Vision Only" systems in stop-and-go traffic. But remember, it won't stop for red lights or navigate city streets. It’s strictly for the highway.
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Real-World Maintenance Costs
People think EVs have zero maintenance. That's a myth. While you don't have oil changes or spark plugs, the 2014 Model S is a heavy car. It eats tires. The rear alignment on the P85+ models was notoriously aggressive, meaning you might only get 12,000 to 15,000 miles out of a set of rear rubber.
The air suspension is another potential money pit. It’s a Continental system, similar to what you’d find in an Audi or Land Rover. The struts eventually leak. If the car looks like it's "squatting" after being parked overnight, the air compressor is working overtime to compensate. That's an expensive fix.
Is It a Bargain or a Burden?
If you are a DIY-type person, the 2014 Tesla Model S is a fascinating project. There is a massive community of owners (check the Tesla Motors Club forums) who have figured out how to fix handles for $20 and where to get refurbished battery modules.
If you just want a reliable car to get to work and you have no interest in "tinkering," buy a used Model 3 instead. The Model 3 is built better, charges faster, and has a much more modern battery chemistry.
But the Model S has presence. It has the hatchback utility—you can fit a mountain bike in the back with the seats down. It has the "frunk" (front trunk) which was much deeper in the 2014 Rear-Wheel Drive models than it is in the newer All-Wheel Drive versions.
What to Check Before You Buy
Don't buy one of these sight-unseen. You need to be methodical. The 2014 year was a transition period for Tesla, and the "service history" is your best friend.
- Check the 12V Battery: These die every 2-3 years and can leave the car totally "bricked" until replaced.
- The "Yellow Border": Look at the edges of the main screen. If there is a yellowish tint around the perimeter, the adhesive is failing. Tesla used to fix this with a UV light tool, but sometimes the whole unit needs replacing.
- The Drive Unit Warranty: Most 2014s are now out of their 8-year, unlimited-mile battery and drive unit warranty. If the one you're looking at hasn't had the motor replaced yet, ask yourself if you’re ready to pay for it when (not if) it fails.
- Charging Speeds: Take the car to a Supercharger during the test drive. Plug it in. If it tops out at 30kW–50kW even when the battery is low, the car has been "gate-kept" by Tesla's software due to cell degradation.
Actionable Steps for the Potential Buyer
- Run the VIN: Use a service to see if the car was ever a "lemon law" buyback. Tesla bought back a lot of 2013 and 2014 cars in the early days to keep customers happy.
- Inspect the Door Handles: Open and close every door five times. If one feels sluggish or makes a grinding noise, it's on its way out.
- Check the Suspension: Cycle the air suspension from "Low" to "Very High." Listen for the compressor. It should be a quiet hum, not a struggling vibrate.
- Confirm the MCU: Prioritize cars that have already been upgraded to MCU2 (Intel Atom). It fundamentally changes the usability of the car.
- Verify Free Supercharging: Check the "Specs" in the Tesla app or the dash. If it says "Free Unlimited Supercharging," it’s a massive financial asset. If it says "Pay Per Use," you're losing a major part of the 2014 value proposition.
The 2014 Tesla Model S isn't just a car; it's a piece of tech history. It’s flawed, it’s quirky, and it requires a bit of a "beta tester" mindset. But if you find one that’s been well-maintained, with the MCU2 upgrade and a healthy battery, it remains one of the most comfortable and cheapest-to-operate long-distance cruisers on the road today. Just keep a "repair fund" tucked away, just in case.
Expert Insight:
Remember that the 2014 Model S uses a Type 2 or Tesla Proprietary connector depending on your region. In the US, you’ll need a CCS adapter if you want to use non-Tesla fast chargers, but older 2014 models often require a physical hardware retrofit ($250+) to even be compatible with that adapter. Stick to the Supercharger network for the easiest experience.