Walk down Mulberry Street in Manhattan’s Chinatown and you’ll pass a dozen places claiming to have the best buns. Most are fine. Some are tourist traps. But then there’s Ruby King Bakery Cafe.
It’s easy to miss.
If you aren't looking for the bright red signage or the stacks of pink pastry boxes in the window, you might just walk right by it. That would be a mistake. Honestly, if you’re hunting for that specific, nostalgic taste of a Hong Kong cha chaan teng—the kind of place where the tea is strong and the pineapple buns are actually warm—Ruby King is basically a local legend for a reason.
It isn't fancy. You won't find artisanal sourdough or $9 lattes here. Instead, you get a plastic tray and some of the most consistent Cantonese baking in the city. It’s a workspace for the neighborhood elders and a quick pitstop for commuters.
Why Everyone Obsesses Over the Ruby King Bakery Cafe Pineapple Bun
Let’s talk about the Bo Lo Bao.
For the uninitiated, a pineapple bun doesn't actually have pineapple in it. It’s named for the crunchy, craggy, sugary topping that looks like the skin of the fruit. At Ruby King Bakery Cafe, the texture is what sets them apart from the competition. You’ve probably had those buns where the topping just shatters into a million dry crumbs the second you take a bite. It’s annoying.
Ruby King manages to keep that top layer crisp but slightly chewy. It clings to the soft, airy bread underneath. If you’re lucky enough to grab one when a fresh tray comes out of the back, the contrast between the hot bread and the sweet crust is incredible.
Pro tip: ask for it with a slab of cold butter.
They’ll slice the warm bun and slide in a thick piece of salted butter. It starts to melt instantly, soaking into the crumb while the center remains cold. It’s a calorie bomb, sure, but it’s the definitive way to eat one.
The Savory Side You’re Probably Ignoring
People go for the sweets, but the savory selection is where the value really kicks in.
The roast pork bun (Char Siu Bao) is the standard-bearer. While many bakeries use a filling that’s neon red and cloyingly sweet, the version here leans a bit more toward the savory, umami side of the spectrum. The meat isn't just gristle; it's actual chunks of pork.
Then there’s the curry beef puff.
It’s flaky. Super flaky. The kind of flaky that requires a napkin or you’ll look like you’ve been in a snowstorm of pastry. The curry is mild—more fragrant than spicy—and it’s a perfect mid-afternoon snack when you’re wandering through Chinatown and need something substantial but cheap.
The Atmosphere: A Genuine Slice of Manhattan’s Chinatown
Chinatown is changing. Everyone knows it. Old-school spots are closing down, replaced by trendy dessert shops with neon signs designed for Instagram. Ruby King Bakery Cafe feels like a holdout.
The interior is utilitarian. It’s bright. It’s often loud. You’ll see people reading Chinese-language newspapers while sipping on hot milk tea. This is a community hub.
If you’re looking for a "quiet workspace" to bring your laptop, this probably isn't the vibe. It’s a high-turnover environment. You order at the counter, you grab your tray, and you find a seat where you can. The staff is efficient—sometimes brisk—but that’s part of the charm. They aren't there to make small talk; they’re there to get you your egg tart before it gets cold.
The Egg Tart Debate: Flaky vs. Cookie Crust
You can’t talk about a Cantonese bakery without mentioning the Dan Tat (egg tart).
Ruby King usually offers the shortcrust version. It’s a dense, buttery, cookie-like shell that holds a bright yellow egg custard. The custard itself is silky and not too sweet. Some people swear by the puff pastry version, but there’s something about the structural integrity of the shortcrust at Ruby King that just works. It doesn't fall apart. You can eat it while walking toward Canal Street without making a mess.
Wait.
Actually, try the coconut tarts too. They are underrated. They have this toasted, shredded coconut top that adds a different texture compared to the smooth egg custard.
The Beverage Game: Milk Tea and Beyond
You’ve gotta get the milk tea.
Hong Kong-style milk tea is made using black tea (often a blend of Ceylons) that’s been pulled through a "silk stocking" (actually a large cloth filter) to make it incredibly smooth. At Ruby King, they use evaporated milk, which gives it that signature creamy, heavy mouthfeel.
It’s strong. Like, "don't drink this at 8:00 PM unless you want to be awake until Tuesday" strong.
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If you want something a bit different, try the Yuenyeung. It’s a mix of coffee and milk tea. It sounds like it shouldn't work, but the bitterness of the coffee and the floral notes of the tea create this weirdly harmonious balance. It’s the ultimate caffeine kick.
What to Know Before You Go
- Cash is King: While some places in the neighborhood are starting to take cards or phone payments, always have cash on you. It makes the transaction faster and the staff happier.
- The Early Bird Gets the Bun: By 4:00 PM, the selection starts to thin out significantly. If you want the prime stuff—the cocktail buns or the fresh pineapple buns—get there in the morning.
- The Language Barrier: It’s minimal. Pointing works perfectly fine, and most of the items are labeled in both Chinese and English.
The Reality of the "Bakery Crawl"
If you’re planning a food tour of Chinatown, Ruby King Bakery Cafe should be your anchor point. It’s located at 88 Mulberry St, right near Columbus Park.
A common mistake tourists make is going to the first bakery they see on Canal Street. Those places are fine, but they’re often catering to a different crowd. Ruby King is where you go when you want to see where the actual residents of the neighborhood eat.
The prices have crept up over the years—inflation hits everyone—but it remains one of the most affordable ways to eat well in New York City. You can still walk out with a full bag of pastries for less than the cost of a fancy sandwich in Midtown.
Beyond the Buns: The Hot Food
Something a lot of people overlook is that Ruby King isn't just a bakery; it’s a cafe.
They serve hot meals. We’re talking classic comfort food like spam and egg over rice, or instant noodles with satay beef. It’s the kind of food that reminds people of home. It’s simple, salty, and satisfying. Is it gourmet? No. Is it exactly what you want on a rainy Tuesday afternoon? Absolutely.
The rice rolls (Cheong Fun) are also worth a look. They’re slippery, doused in soy sauce and sesame seeds, and usually come out piping hot.
How Ruby King Stands Against the Competition
New York has no shortage of great bakeries. You’ve got Fay Da with its massive corporate footprint and polished stores. You’ve got Mei Lai Wah with its famous (and always crowded) pineapple pork buns.
Ruby King sits in the middle.
It’s more "neighborhood" than Fay Da, but less of a chaotic tourist magnet than Mei Lai Wah. It’s the reliable choice. It’s the place you go when you don't want to wait in a 30-minute line but you also don't want to settle for a dry, day-old bun from a street cart.
The consistency is really what keeps people coming back. I’ve been going there for years, and the pineapple bun I had yesterday tasted exactly like the one I had five years ago. In a city like New York where everything is constantly being disrupted or "reimagined," that kind of stagnation is actually a blessing.
Actionable Takeaways for Your Visit
- Check the bottom of the buns. A good bakery ensures the bottoms aren't burnt or soggy. Ruby King usually nails this.
- Order a hot drink even in summer. The hot milk tea pairs better with the buttery pastries than the iced version does.
- Take a walk to Columbus Park. It’s just a block away. Grab your buns, find a bench, and watch the mahjong games. It’s the best dinner theater in the city.
- Don't forget the Sponge Cake. Their steamed paper-wrapped sponge cakes are incredibly light and bouncy. They’re great for kids or anyone who wants something less heavy than a filled bun.
Ruby King Bakery Cafe represents a specific era of New York City that is slowly fading. It’s a place defined by its lack of pretension. You go there for the food, you stay for ten minutes to soak in the atmosphere, and you leave with a pink box tucked under your arm. It’s a simple ritual, but it’s one of the best ones Manhattan has to offer.
Next time you find yourself on Mulberry Street, skip the tourist traps and look for the red sign. Get the pineapple bun with butter. Drink the tea. Experience the neighborhood the way it’s meant to be experienced.
Once you finish your snacks, take your empty wrappers to one of the trash cans outside the park to keep the area clean. If you're still hungry, head over to the nearby markets to pick up some dried fruits or tea leaves to take home. This ensures you’re supporting multiple small businesses in the ecosystem while you’re in the area.
Check the daily specials board near the register for any seasonal items like mooncakes during the Mid-Autumn Festival or sticky rice tamales. These are often made in smaller batches and sell out quickly. Buying them when available gives you a taste of the traditional holiday flavors without needing a reservation at a sit-down restaurant.