You finally found it. That used iPhone on Facebook Marketplace or eBay that looks pristine and, more importantly, fits your budget. You’re ready to hand over the cash, but a nagging thought stops you. What if it only works on Verizon? Or what if it’s still tied to a T-Mobile contract from three years ago? Knowing how to see if iphone is locked isn't just a technical curiosity; it’s a financial safety net. If you buy a locked phone, you’re basically buying a very expensive paperweight unless you happen to use that specific carrier.
Honestly, Apple doesn't make this as obvious as they should. There isn't a giant red flashing light that says "LOCKED." Instead, you have to go digging through menus or, in some cases, play a little game of musical chairs with SIM cards. It's annoying. But it's necessary.
The Settings App Method (The Fast Way)
The quickest way to check your status is sitting right in your pocket. Open Settings. Tap General. Then hit About. You’re looking for a specific line item called Carrier Lock. If it says "No SIM restrictions," you’re golden. That means the phone is unlocked and will take a SIM card from basically any carrier on the planet.
But here is the catch.
Sometimes, especially on older versions of iOS (we’re talking pre-iOS 14), that specific menu item doesn’t exist. Or, even weirder, I've seen cases where it says "No SIM restrictions" but the phone still rejects certain MVNOs like Mint Mobile or Visible because of a lingering activation policy issue. It's rare, but it happens. If you see a carrier name there instead of "No SIM restrictions," that phone belongs to that carrier until a ransom—usually in the form of a paid-off contract—is met.
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The SIM Card Swap Test
If you don't trust the software, trust the hardware. This is the old-school method. It’s foolproof. Grab two SIM cards from different networks. If your main phone is on AT&T, borrow a friend's T-Mobile SIM. Pop yours out. Put theirs in.
If the phone is locked, you’ll usually get an immediate, nasty pop-up. It’ll say something like "SIM Not Supported" or "Activation Required." The phone might even kick you back to the setup screen. If it’s unlocked? The bars will search for a second, then you’ll see the new carrier name in the top corner. Done.
Keep in mind that with the iPhone 14, 15, and 16 series in the U.S., there is no physical SIM tray. Everything is eSIM. This makes the "swap test" a massive pain because you can't just borrow a physical card. You’d have to actually try to download an eSIM profile, which usually involves starting a trial with a carrier like Cricket or T-Mobile.
Using the IMEI to Dig Deeper
Every iPhone has a unique fingerprint called an IMEI. It’s a 15-digit string of numbers that tells the story of that specific device’s life. To find it, dial *#06# in the Phone app, or look in Settings > General > About.
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Once you have that number, you can use online "IMEI checkers." Be careful here. Most of the free ones are garbage or exist just to sell you a "premium report." However, some reputable sites like CTIA’s Stolen Phone Checker can tell you if the phone is blacklisted. A blacklisted phone is often "locked" in the worst way—it’s been reported stolen or lost, and no carrier will touch it.
I usually recommend checking the carrier’s own website. If you think the phone is an AT&T device, go to the AT&T unlock portal and type in the IMEI. It will tell you right away if the device is "eligible for unlock." If they say it’s not eligible because of an unpaid balance, well, you have your answer. You’re looking at a locked phone with baggage.
Why Carriers Lock Phones Anyway
It’s all about the money. Carriers like Verizon or T-Mobile often sell iPhones at a "discount" or via monthly installments. To make sure you don't take that discounted phone and immediately jump ship to a cheaper competitor, they lock the software.
Verizon is a bit of an outlier. Due to an old agreement with the FCC (the 700MHz C-Block Open Platform restrictions), they have to unlock phones automatically after 60 days of service. So, if you buy a Verizon iPhone and it’s been active for two months, it’s likely unlocked even if you’re still paying it off. AT&T and T-Mobile? They are way more strict. They won’t flip that switch until every penny of the device's cost is paid.
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Buying Used? Do These Three Things
If you are standing in a Starbucks looking at a phone you’re about to buy, do not just take the seller's word for it. People lie. Or, more often, they genuinely don't know. They might think "it's paid off" means "it's unlocked." It doesn't.
- Check the Settings. Look for that "No SIM restrictions" text.
- Check for an iCloud Lock. This is different from a carrier lock. If "Find My" is still on, you will never be able to use that phone. Go to Settings > [Name] and make sure they’ve signed out.
- Run the IMEI. Use a site like Swappa’s IMEI check. It’s free and tells you if the phone is globally blacklisted.
What to Do if Your iPhone is Locked
So you checked, and it's locked. Don't panic. If you are the original owner, just call your carrier. As long as the phone is paid off and your account is in good standing, they are legally required to unlock it for you. It usually takes 24 to 48 hours for the request to process through Apple’s servers.
If you bought it used and it's locked to a carrier you don't use, you're in a tougher spot. You can try those "third-party unlocking services" you see advertised on the web, but honestly? Most of them are sketchy. They often use "grey market" methods that can be relocked by Apple during the next software update. The best move is always to contact the person who sold it to you and have them request the unlock from their carrier.
Moving Forward With Your Device
Knowing the status of your phone gives you leverage. It means you can travel internationally and pop in a local SIM to avoid $10-a-day roaming fees. It means you can switch to a cheaper monthly plan whenever you want.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Check your Settings > General > About > Carrier Lock right now to confirm your status.
- If it shows a carrier, contact that provider's "Device Unlock" department via their website.
- If you're buying a used device, always verify the IMEI on a blacklist database before handing over any money.
- Record your IMEI in a safe place (like a password manager) in case the phone is ever stolen; you'll need it to lock the phone remotely and report it to the police.
Verify the hardware before you commit to the software. A little due diligence in the Settings menu saves a massive headache at the cellular store later.