You know that feeling when you're walking through a high-end boutique and everything smells like expensive laundry and "quiet luxury"? That is the exact vibe Maison Louis Marie has mastered. But while everyone and their mother is obsessed with No.04 Bois de Balincourt (the one that basically smells like a more affordable Santal 33), there is a sleeper hit that actually deserves your attention: Maison Louis Marie No 13 Nouvelle Vague Eau de Parfum.
Honestly, it’s a weird one. In a good way.
If you’re expecting a typical floral or a generic "beachy" scent because of the name, you’re going to be surprised. It’s not tropical. It doesn’t smell like suntan lotion or coconut. It smells like a rainy day on the Italian Amalfi coast where you’re wearing a very expensive linen shirt and eating a citrus salad. It’s sophisticated, slightly moody, and surprisingly green.
What Does No 13 Nouvelle Vague Actually Smell Like?
Let’s get into the weeds of the juice itself. Most people see "citrus" and "coconut" in the notes and think they’re getting a Piña Colada. They aren't. This is a dry, woody fragrance.
The top notes hit you with Muguet (Lily of the Valley) and a very sharp, realistic citrus. It isn't sweet. It's zesty. Then, the heart notes bring in this weirdly addictive Accord of Tuscan Fig and Agave. The fig here isn't the jammy, sticky-sweet fig you find in Diptyque’s Philosykos. It’s the leaf. It’s the sap. It’s green and slightly bitter.
The base is where things get interesting. You’ve got Tonka Bean and Sandalwood. This is what saves it from being just another "freshie." The sandalwood provides that signature Maison Louis Marie creaminess that anchors the whole thing. The "coconut" that people often talk about isn't actually a note—it’s an olfactive illusion created by the combination of fig and tonka. It’s a "sun-warmed skin" kind of smell, not a "shaved ice" kind of smell.
It’s sophisticated.
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The Amalfi Connection
Maison Louis Marie is a brand steeped in a very specific kind of history. Founded by Marie Duet-Vanhoutte, the brand carries the legacy of Louis Marie Aubert du Petit Thouars, a pioneer in French botanical history during the French Revolution. This matters because the brand treats scent like a botanical study.
No 13 Nouvelle Vague is specifically inspired by Marie’s childhood summers spent on the Italian coast. But it’s the Italian coast, not the Florida coast. There’s a difference. It’s about the rocky cliffs, the wild herbs growing by the road, and the dampness of the ocean air hitting the dry earth.
If you've ever smelled Acqua di Parma, you know that classic Italian citrus DNA. Nouvelle Vague takes that DNA but makes it modern and "indie." It’s less "grandfather’s cologne" and more "art school student on vacation."
Why Eau de Parfum Matters Over the Oil
You’ve probably seen the Maison Louis Marie perfume oils. They’re everywhere. They’re cute, they’re $16, and they fit in your pocket. But the Maison Louis Marie No 13 Nouvelle Vague Eau de Parfum is a different beast entirely.
Performance.
Oils stay close to the skin. They don't "project." If you want someone to smell you when you walk into a room, the oil isn't going to do it. The EDP (Eau de Parfum) has a much higher concentration of fragrance oil diluted in alcohol. This allows the scent to atomize and "throw."
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- Longevity: On skin, I find this lasts about 5 to 6 hours. On clothes? It’ll stay there until you do laundry.
- Sillage: It’s moderate. It’s not a "beast mode" fragrance that will choke out people in an elevator, which, honestly, is a plus for this kind of scent profile.
- Versatility: This is 100% unisex. There is nothing inherently "feminine" or "masculine" about the smell of a fig tree by the ocean.
The Clean Beauty Factor
We have to talk about the "clean" aspect because Maison Louis Marie hangs their hat on it. They are part of the "Clean at Sephora" program, which means they formulate without a long list of ingredients like sulfates, parabens, and phthalates.
Is that a marketing gimmick? Maybe a little.
But for people with sensitive skin or those who get headaches from synthetic "beast mode" fragrances (looking at you, Baccarat Rouge 540), Maison Louis Marie is a godsend. Their formulas feel lighter. They feel more "natural," even though they do use safe synthetics to achieve certain notes that can't be extracted from nature (like Lily of the Valley).
They are also vegan and cruelty-free. In 2026, that’s basically the barrier for entry for any serious luxury brand, but it’s still worth noting.
Comparing No 13 to the Heavy Hitters
If you like these fragrances, you will probably love No 13 Nouvelle Vague:
- Diptyque Philosykos: Both share that green fig DNA, but No 13 is "saltier" and more aquatic.
- Le Labo Santal 33: They share that creamy sandalwood base, but No 13 is much brighter and lighter.
- Byredo Gypsy Water: Both have that "cool kid" aesthetic and a woody-citrus backbone, though Gypsy Water is more juniper-heavy.
If you hate the smell of "green" things—like cut grass or crushed leaves—stay away. This isn't for the "sugar and vanilla" crowd. This is for the person who wants to smell like they just spent the day hiking through a Mediterranean forest and then took a cold shower.
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Is It a Safe Blind Buy?
No.
I’ll be honest. Fig is a polarizing note. On some people’s skin chemistry, fig notes can turn slightly sour or "coconuty" in a way they didn't expect. Because No 13 Nouvelle Vague has that agave and fig leaf combo, it has a sharpness that might be jarring if you're used to sweet, fruity scents.
Buy the discovery set first. Or go to a Sephora and spray it on your skin, not just a paper tester. You need to let that sandalwood base develop. The first 10 minutes are very citrus-forward, but the "soul" of the perfume doesn't show up until about 30 minutes in.
How to Wear It (The Pro Way)
If you want to maximize this scent, layer it.
The brand actually recommends layering the oil and the EDP. Apply the No 13 oil to your pulse points (wrists, neck, behind the knees—yes, really) and then mist the Eau de Parfum over your hair and clothes. The oil acts as a primer, grabbing onto the scent molecules and making them last twice as long.
Also, don't sleep on this as a winter scent. Everyone thinks of it as a summer fragrance, but there is something incredibly chic about wearing a crisp, green, woody scent when it’s freezing outside. it cuts through the heavy, oppressive smells of wool coats and heaters.
Actionable Takeaways for Your Next Scent Purchase
- Check the Batch: Maison Louis Marie produces in smaller batches. If a bottle smells slightly different than your last one, it’s usually due to natural variations in the botanical ingredients.
- Storage Matters: Because they use fewer stabilizers and synthetic preservatives, keep this bottle out of your bathroom. The humidity and heat will kill the delicate citrus notes in months. Keep it in a cool, dark drawer.
- The 20-Minute Rule: Never judge this scent by the initial spray. The agave note is high-pitched at first but mellows into a beautiful, earthy creaminess fairly quickly.
- Sustainability Check: If you care about the planet, the brand uses FSC-certified paper for their packaging and soy ink. It's a small detail, but it aligns with the "Nouvelle Vague" (New Wave) philosophy of conscious living.
If you're looking for a signature scent that doesn't smell like everyone else at the office but still feels "expensive," Maison Louis Marie No 13 Nouvelle Vague is the move. It’s an intellectual fragrance. It’s a conversation starter. And most importantly, it’s a break from the cloying sweetness that has dominated the perfume counters for the last decade.