You’re driving up Tramway Boulevard, the Sandia Mountains are glowing that weird, beautiful pinkish-purple color they get at sunset, and your stomach starts growling. It happens to everyone. Usually, at that exact moment, you see the sign for County Line BBQ Albuquerque New Mexico. It sits right there at the base of the mountains, looking like a rustic outpost from an old Western movie. But here’s the thing about Albuquerque food: we are incredibly protective of our local spots. We have a "Green Chile on Everything" rule that is basically law. So, when a spot that started in Austin, Texas, becomes a staple in the Duke City, you have to ask if it’s just the view or if the meat actually holds its own.
People love to argue about BBQ. It's tribal.
Honestly, County Line isn't trying to be your neighborhood hole-in-the-wall where the pitmaster sleeps in the back. It’s a "Legendary Texas Bar-B-Q" joint that found a home in a former rest stop/orchard property. It’s polished. It’s consistent. And for a lot of families in the Northeast Heights, it’s the default setting for birthdays, graduations, or showing out-of-towners that New Mexico isn't only about enchiladas.
The Meat of the Matter: What’s on the Pit?
If you walk into County Line and don't smell the post oak, something is wrong. They lean heavily into the Texas tradition of "low and slow," which means the brisket is the undisputed heavyweight champion of the menu.
When you get a plate of their brisket, you’re looking for that smoke ring—that pinkish band just under the bark. It’s there. The fat rendering is usually spot on, though, like any BBQ place, you can occasionally get a leaner cut if you don't specify. You want the moist cut. Always ask for the moist cut. It’s where the flavor lives.
Then there are the beef ribs.
These things are massive. We’re talking "Flintstones" level proportions. They call them "River Smith’s" ribs sometimes in the lore of the restaurant, and they are basically a salt-and-pepper crusted steak on a bone. If you’re a fan of baby back ribs, they do those too, glazed in a sauce that is sweet but doesn't feel like you’re eating candy. The meat pulls away from the bone with just the right amount of resistance. You don't want it falling off like mush; you want a little tug. That’s the sign of a pitmaster who knows their timing.
The Sides and That Bread
Let’s talk about the bread for a second because it’s surprisingly controversial. They bring out these huge loaves of homemade white bread. It’s thick. It’s warm. It’s basically a sponge for the extra sauce and meat juices. Some people think it’s "filler," but those people are wrong. It’s an essential part of the experience.
As for the sides:
- The potato salad is the mustard-based variety, which splits the room.
- Cole slaw is crisp, vinegar-forward, and cuts through the heavy fat of the brisket.
- The beans are "cowboy style," meaning they aren't the sugary baked beans you find in the Midwest. They’re savory.
Why the Location Changes Everything
You can't talk about County Line BBQ Albuquerque New Mexico without talking about the building. It’s an old Territorial-style house. The walls are thick, the wood is dark, and the windows look right out onto the desert floor. In the summer, the patio is the only place you want to be.
There’s a specific vibe here. It’s not "fine dining," but it’s "nice." You’ll see guys in dusty work boots sitting next to a couple on a date. That’s Albuquerque in a nutshell. The restaurant managed to take a Texas concept and make it feel like it belongs in the high desert. Maybe it’s the air. Or maybe it’s the fact that they realized they had to offer green chile on the menu to survive in this town.
Seriously, try the green chile stew if they have it as a special. It’s the ultimate "fusion" move.
The "All You Can Eat" Trap
They offer a family-style, all-you-can-eat option. It’s called "The Cadillac" or sometimes just the Family Special depending on how the menu is printed that year. It includes brisket, ribs, sausage, and chicken.
Here is the pro tip: only do this if you have at least four people who are actually hungry.
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It’s easy to get overwhelmed by the sheer volume of food. You start with the sausage—which is snappy and peppery—and by the time the brisket arrives, you’re already hitting a wall. Pace yourself. Barbecue is a marathon, not a sprint. If you're solo or just a pair, stick to the platters. You’ll have leftovers, and cold brisket on a tortilla the next morning is a spiritual experience.
Dealing with the Crowds and the Service
Because of its location near the Sandia Peak Tramway, this place gets slammed.
If you show up at 6:30 PM on a Friday without a plan, you’re going to be waiting in the bar. Luckily, the bar area is actually pretty great. They have a solid selection of local New Mexico craft beers—look for things from Marble or La Cumbre—and the margaritas aren't half bad for a BBQ joint.
The service is usually "Albuquerque fast," which means friendly but not hurried. The servers know the menu inside and out. They know which ribs are hitting best that day. Ask them. "Hey, how’s the brisket looking tonight?" They’ll tell you if it’s a bit lean or if it’s perfection.
Addressing the "Chain" Stigma
Some BBQ purists scoff at County Line because it’s a small chain. They want the shack with the corrugated metal roof and the eccentric owner. I get it. I really do. But there is a massive value in consistency.
When you go to County Line BBQ Albuquerque New Mexico, you know exactly what the sauce is going to taste like. You know the bread will be warm. You know the view of the Sandias will be spectacular. In a city where restaurants open and close faster than the seasons change, there is something comforting about a place that has stayed the same for decades.
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It’s a reliable anchor for the Northeast Heights.
Is it the Best BBQ in Albuquerque?
That’s a loaded question. "Best" is subjective. If you want craft, small-batch BBQ, there are spots like Nexus Blue Smokehouse or some of the food trucks that might give you a more "artisan" feel.
But if you want the total package—the atmosphere, the massive portions, the history, and the view—County Line wins. It’s the place you take your parents when they come to visit. It’s the place you go when you want to feel like you’re in the West.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
- The Sunset Window: Aim for a reservation about 30 minutes before sunset. Watching the mountains turn red while eating a beef rib is a bucket-list Albuquerque moment.
- The Lean vs. Moist Debate: When ordering brisket, specify your preference. If you don't say anything, you usually get a mix.
- Check the Sides: Don't sleep on the fried okra. It’s one of the few things that stays crunchy even in our dry air.
- The Sauce: They have a couple of varieties. The "Original" is the standard, but ask for the "Extra Spicy" if you want a little more kick. It’s still Texas-spicy, which is different from New Mexico-spicy (it’s more about black pepper and vinegar than capsaicin heat).
- Parking: The lot is huge, but it fills up. If you’re driving a big truck or an RV, get there early or park further down toward the entrance.
When you’re done, take five minutes to just stand in the parking lot and look up. The stars out there by the mountains are incredible. It’s one of those rare places where the environment actually enhances the food. You aren't just eating BBQ; you’re soaking in the high desert.
Next Steps for Your Visit:
Before you head out, check their website or call ahead to confirm their current "Pit Specials," as they often rotate seasonal meats or specific rib cuts that aren't on the permanent menu. If you’re planning a weekend dinner, use an online booking tool if available, as the Tramway traffic can make walk-ins a 45-minute ordeal. Finally, if you're a local, don't forget to ask about their bulk "to-go" options; getting a few pounds of brisket by the paper bag is often the move for Sunday football games.