You bought an iPad. Maybe it was a "certified refurbished" deal from a guy on Craigslist, or perhaps you just found an old slab in your desk drawer and can’t remember if it’s a Pro or just a very shiny Air. Most people head straight to "About" in the settings, see "iPad" and stop there. That's a mistake. If you really want to know the history of your device—where it was meant to be sold, whether it’s a replacement unit, or if it was ever engraved—you need to master the iPad part number lookup.
It’s not just a string of random gibberish. Those letters and numbers are a coded diary of your tablet's life.
Honestly, Apple makes this harder than it needs to be. They use "Model Numbers" (like A2228) and "Part Numbers" (like MY232LL/A) interchangeably in conversation, but they mean completely different things. One tells you the generic hardware version. The other tells you the specific configuration, storage, and even the original retail intent.
The First Letter Tells the Real Story
Ever wondered if your "new" iPad was actually a repair swap? You can find out in ten seconds. Go to Settings, tap General, then tap About. Look for the Model Number. If you see something starting with an A followed by four digits, tap it once. It will toggle into a longer string. That’s your part number.
The very first letter is the "DNA" of the device.
- M stands for Brand New. This is a retail unit meant for the shelf at the Apple Store or a place like Best Buy.
- F means Refurbished. Apple’s technicians have gone through it, replaced the shell and battery, and put it back in the wild.
- N is the one most people miss. This is a Replacement Device. If someone broke their iPad and Apple handed them a "new" one under AppleCare, it usually starts with N. These aren't meant for retail sale originally.
- P is for Personalized. This iPad was engraved at the factory.
Think about that for a second. If you're paying full "new" price for an iPad on eBay and the part number starts with an F, you’re being overcharged. You've basically caught them in a lie. It’s a small detail that saves hundreds of dollars.
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Decoding the Region Codes
The end of the string—the part before the slash—tells you where the iPad was born to live. For example, "LL" means the United States and Canada. If you see "CH," it was destined for China. "JP" is Japan.
Why does this matter? Well, different regions have different hardware rules. iPads sold in certain parts of the Middle East, specifically those with the "AB" or "AE" code, might have FaceTime restricted at a system level due to local regulations. You can’t just "software update" your way out of that in some cases. It's baked into the identity of the device. If you're doing an iPad part number lookup and see a region code that doesn't match your country, you might run into weird warranty issues or missing features.
I once saw someone buy a "Global Version" iPad that turned out to be a Japanese model. In Japan, by law, the camera shutter sound cannot be muted to prevent "upskirt" photos. The owner was stuck with a loud click every time they took a screenshot in a quiet library. No setting could turn it off. Check the code.
Why the "A" Model Number Isn't Enough
Let’s talk about the A-numbers. You’ll see them on the back of older iPads in tiny, microscopic print, or by tapping the model number in settings. A2270. A2428.
These are helpful for finding the right case or screen protector, but they are incredibly broad. An A2270 is an iPad (8th Generation). That’s it. It doesn't tell you if it has 32GB or 128GB of storage. It doesn't tell you the color. It definitely doesn't tell you if it has a cellular radio or just Wi-Fi.
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The part number (the one starting with M, F, or N) is the deep dive. It’s the SKU. If you are selling your device, listing the part number is the "pro move." It proves to the buyer exactly what you have without you needing to take fifteen screenshots of different settings pages.
The Mystery of the "Refurbished" Label
There is a massive difference between "Apple Refurbished" and "Seller Refurbished." An iPad part number lookup is the only way to verify if Apple actually touched the device.
If the model starts with an "F," it went through Apple’s rigorous process. They give it a new outer shell. They give it a brand new battery. They give it a new white box. It is, for all intents and purposes, a new machine with a one-year warranty.
If the model starts with an "M" but the seller says it's "refurbished," that means a third party did the work. Maybe they used high-quality parts. Maybe they used a screen they found in a bin. You don't know. The part number doesn't lie; it tells you the state the device was in when it left the Apple factory gates.
How to use this for Buying Used
When you're browsing marketplaces, ask the seller for a screenshot of the "About" page. If they refuse or blur out the model number, walk away. There is no privacy risk in sharing a part number (don't confuse this with the Serial Number or IMEI, which should stay private until you're serious).
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Look for the "LL/A" if you're in the States.
Look for that "M" prefix.
Cross-reference the part number on sites like EveryMac or GSMArena.
These databases are updated by enthusiasts who track every single iteration of Apple hardware. They can tell you the exact date that specific part number was released. This prevents you from buying a "2024 model" that was actually manufactured in late 2022.
Technical Nuances of the Lookup
Sometimes, you’ll find an iPad that has been "re-serialized" during a major motherboard repair at an unauthorized shop. In these rare cases, the part number might not even show up correctly, or the settings menu might feel "laggy" when loading that info. That’s a massive red flag.
Also, keep in mind that cellular models have an EID and an IMEI. If you’re doing a lookup to see if an iPad is unlocked, the part number helps, but you really need to look at the "Carrier Lock" status right below it. In the modern era (post-2021), most iPads are sold unlocked, but checking the part number against a carrier database can reveal if it was originally a corporate-managed device.
MDM (Mobile Device Management) is the silent killer of used iPad sales. A part number might look fine, but if the device belongs to a school district or a corporation, they can lock it remotely at any time. The part number won't always tell you this, but it can give you a hint. Education-specific SKUs often have distinct part numbers that aren't found in the general consumer catalog.
Actionable Steps for your iPad
Stop guessing and start verifying. Here is exactly what you should do right now:
- Extract the Code: Open Settings > General > About. Tap the "Model Number" once to see the long string (e.g., MYLF2LL/A).
- Identify the Source: Check the first letter. M is retail, F is Apple refurbished, N is a replacement unit.
- Confirm the Region: Look at the letters before the slash. If it isn't "LL" (for US users), research that specific region's limitations (like the Japanese shutter sound or Middle Eastern FaceTime blocks).
- Verify Storage and Specs: Copy that full string and paste it into a search engine or a dedicated database like EveryMac. This will confirm the exact RAM and storage capacity.
- Check for MDM: If the part number suggests it was a "Bulk" or "Education" unit, go to Settings > General > VPN & Device Management to ensure no corporate profiles are installed.
Knowing your part number is about more than just trivia; it's about ownership. It gives you the upper hand in reselling and the necessary protection when buying. It’s the difference between knowing you have an iPad and knowing which iPad you have.