IN the second, one the handle is way too far to the left.
I 'm actually going to question your use of the buster sword and master sword, since both icons are just so ubiquitous whatever you do with them will be -recognizable- but lack entirely in distinctiveness in design.
IN the second, one the handle is way too far to the left.
I 'm actually going to question your use of the buster sword and master sword, since both icons are just so ubiquitous whatever you do with them will be -recognizable- but lack entirely in distinctiveness in design.
I found a version of the buster sword where the handle was intentionally offset, like the two holes in the base of the "blade" area are offset; not centered.
All swords need to be balanced, concerning weight, so the wielder can hold/swing them correctly. I think this has something to do the offset of the particular design I'm referring to. Imagining a crushing blow from this thing it stands to reason that the handle be offset like it is so that the part of the blade area, I currently have colored as pink, acts like a weight to intensify the impact of the blow, the more the offset of the handle towards the cutting edge, the more the weighty backside follows the swing bring more power with it. It's a physics problem. Probably doesn't make any sense, but that how I rationalized how my reference was designed. It may just be distracting.
Once finished, these will be seen by three people. Like I said, borrowing the designs adds a nostalgia and prestige factor. I'm not trying to innovate new sword designs. Instead, I'm kind of celebrating these old beloved designs. Think of it as a respectful homage. These swords are not for use in any game project, or any other type of project for that matter. Certainly nothing commercial.
For the Buster Sword, sure the handle needs to be offset a bit, but to the other side. On the cutting edge, the sword is much thinner, and hence, much lighter than on the backbone side. The Buster's hanle should be towards the backside of the blade, just like how, for example on a katana, the handle is "curved" in the direction of the backside of the blade.
More flare please (around the flames)! I'm not sure about this but have you tried adding a lighter shade to the flame (blue or white)?
I'm very much looking forward to progress!
I quickly messed around with it. I think you should definitely play with white, yellow and blue to give more depth to the flames. Up to you.
Looking forwrad to progress on the Claymore!
The NES controller looks a bit strange in the last oneAnd btw, if you deviate from NES and give it a second D-PAD, it'll turn into a perfect coder joke about how C++ (suggested by dpads) is a powerful but heavy tool through which you'll blow your whole leg if you shoot yourself in the foot. ^_^
I agree with politopo that the old shape was really going somewhere (though it needed to be a little less busy), and the new one doesn't really have the same appeal.
Actually Rydin, ptoing beat you to it, hehe.
It turned out PS's greyscale conversion sucks and is almost random. ptoing informed me of this. He, using Pro Motion easily the converts the C64 pal and gets the right result. Since then I noticed how confusing it was to accurately determine a pixel's true luminosity; darkness/lightness value. I just gave up and started just eyeballing everything.
The best grayscale is to switch to L a/b colormode and just tick the L channel...
The automatic grayscale function sucks because it fucks with all the R/G/B values together since a pixel has all 3 informations, instead of the pure L mode
It's actually easy, not confusing Tongue just need to know about colormodes
QuoteIt turned out PS's greyscale conversion sucks and is almost random. ptoing informed me of this. He, using Pro Motion easily the converts the C64 pal and gets the right result. Since then I noticed how confusing it was to accurately determine a pixel's true luminosity; darkness/lightness value. I just gave up and started just eyeballing everything.
You know - when i was doin a quick greyscale preview, and looking back at the regular color one... i thought i was going crazy because certain values seemed way off to their greyscale counterpart....QuoteThe best grayscale is to switch to L a/b colormode and just tick the L channel...
The automatic grayscale function sucks because it fucks with all the R/G/B values together since a pixel has all 3 informations, instead of the pure L mode
It's actually easy, not confusing Tongue just need to know about colormodes
yes thanks mr elk. That is quite easy indeed.
I sure look pretty foolish ;D - but if you need any 'help' or 'hints' on how things are 'looking', doing this b/w test is always a sure bet to gauge values, given that youre looking at a reliable representation of the actual values, lol.
I showed the best way to make a b/w image with little to no value loss.
If you want to tell me something "indirectly", do it via PM.
instead of making me look dumb.
:-[
Wow.
These blow my mind. Keep doing whatever you're doing, because it rocks.
Hilt detail. Striving for a nice reflectivey crystally icey look. The big flat blade will be an interesting challenge to make look translucent like the hilt.
(http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/4377/l7myg2dz.png)
I want the flames more chaotic and maelstromish.
I'm simply using any color in the palette that works now. Forget color count control, who needs it. This sword was originally supposed to have significantly more colors than the other two anyway, to give it even a technical superiority.
I'm starting to think the sword should be much more silhouetted; even less refraction detail in the sword itself. . .