You’re standing in a coffee shop or a dimly lit parking lot, looking at a slab of glass and aluminum. The seller says it’s an iPad Pro with M4. It looks thin. It looks fast. But is it actually the model they claim? Or is it a base-model Air cleverly disguised by a sleek magnetic case? Honestly, you can’t always tell by the chassis alone. Apple is great at recycling designs, and unless you’re carrying a micrometer, the difference between certain generations is basically invisible to the naked eye. This is exactly why you need to identify iPad by serial number before any money changes hands.
It’s the digital DNA of the device.
Every iPad leaves the factory with a unique string of alphanumeric characters that tells the story of its birth. It’s not just a random sequence; it’s a record of the assembly plant, the week of manufacture, and the specific configuration—storage, color, and cellular capabilities included. If you’re buying used, or even if you just found an old device in a drawer and can't remember if it's the one that supports the Apple Pencil 2, that serial number is your source of truth.
Where the heck is the number?
Finding it is usually the easy part, unless the screen is shattered or the battery is dead. If the iPad is functional, just hop into Settings > General > About. It’s right there. You’ll see the Model Name, Model Number, and the Serial Number.
Pro tip: Tap the Model Number. It’ll toggle between a long string (like MY232LL/A) and a shorter code starting with the letter "A" (like A2228). That "A" number is actually the easiest way to quickly Google the hardware generation, but the serial number is what gives you the deep-dive specifics on warranty and activation status.
What if the iPad won't turn on? Flip it over. Apple lasers the serial number onto the back of every iPad in tiny, tiny print near the bottom. You might need a magnifying glass or a quick photo with your iPhone to zoom in enough to read it. If you still have the original box—which, let's be real, most of us throw away after a week—it’s printed on the barcode label.
Using Apple’s official "Check Coverage" tool
The most reliable way to identify iPad by serial number is through Apple’s own official portal. You go to the Check Coverage page. You type in the code. You solve a CAPTCHA that’s usually harder than it needs to be.
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Once you’re in, Apple tells you the exact marketing name of the device. It’ll say "iPad Pro 11-inch (4th generation)" or "iPad mini (6th generation)." It also shows you if the device is still under the standard one-year warranty or if it has active AppleCare+. This is massive for resale value. If a seller claims a device has AppleCare+ and the serial number check says "Coverage Expired," walk away. They’re either lying or they don’t know what they’re talking about.
The third-party "SNDeepInfo" and "Orchard" alternatives
Sometimes Apple’s site is vague. It might just give you the name and warranty status, but maybe you want to know the exact date it was manufactured. Third-party decoders like SNDeepInfo or Orchard can sometimes pull more granular data.
For older iPads (pre-2021), the serial number actually followed a predictable format. The first three characters indicated the factory, the fourth and fifth gave you the year and week. In 2021, Apple switched to a randomized 10-character format. This was apparently done to prevent "serial number guessing" and to tighten up their supply chain security. So, if you have a newer M2 or M4 iPad, those third-party decoders won’t be able to "read" the date inside the string anymore; they’ll have to rely on their own databases.
Why the Model Number (the "A" code) matters too
While we’re talking about identification, don't ignore that "A" number on the back. It’s the regulatory model number. While the serial number is unique to your specific unit, the "A" number tells you the regional variant.
For example, an iPad might have a serial number that says it’s a 256GB WiFi model, but the "A" number might tell you it was originally intended for the Chinese or European market. Why does that matter? Frequency bands. If it’s a cellular model, a device meant for the US might lack certain bands used in the UK, or vice versa. Always cross-reference the two.
The "Refurbished" Secret in the Model Number
Here is a trick that most people completely miss when they try to identify iPad by serial number and model details. Look at the Model Number in the Settings app (the one like MK2L3LL/A).
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The very first letter is a secret code:
- M: This means the device was bought brand new.
- F: This means it’s a refurbished unit. Apple refurbished is great, but it shouldn't be sold at a "new" price.
- N: This means it was a replacement device provided by Apple through a warranty claim.
- P: This means it was personalized with an engraving at the time of purchase.
If someone is selling you a "brand new" iPad but the model number starts with an "F," they’re technically selling you a refurbished unit. Knowledge is power, especially when you’re spending $800 on a used Pro.
Activation Lock: The serial number's most important job
The scariest thing about buying a used iPad isn't a scratched screen. It’s the Activation Lock. If a previous owner didn't log out of "Find My," that iPad is a paperweight. You cannot bypass it.
You used to be able to check iCloud status directly on Apple’s site, but they took that specific tool down a few years ago. Now, the best way to check is to literally try to set the device up. But if you’re buying online, ask the seller for a screenshot of the serial number entered into a coverage checker. It won't explicitly say "Locked," but you can use services like iFreeiCloud (use these with caution) to verify the FMI (Find My iPhone/iPad) status. Honestly, the safest bet is asking the seller to show a video of them logging out of iCloud.
What to do if the serial number is "Invalid"
Every once in a while, you’ll type a number into Apple’s site and get an error saying it’s invalid. Don't panic immediately.
First, check for "O" vs "0" (zero). Apple doesn't typically use the letter "O" in serial numbers to avoid this exact confusion. If you’ve double-checked the characters and it’s still invalid, it could be a "replacement" serial number that hasn't been updated in the consumer-facing database, or—worst case scenario—it’s a counterfeit. Yes, there are fake iPads. They usually run a skinned version of Android that looks like iPadOS, but the serial number will never verify on Apple’s servers.
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Real-world scenario: The "Is this an iPad Air 4 or 5?" dilemma
The iPad Air 4 and Air 5 look identical. Seriously. Same colors (mostly), same dimensions, same camera. The difference is the chip: A14 vs M1. On the used market, the M1 (Air 5) is worth significantly more because it supports Stage Manager and has way more longevity.
If you just look at the back, you’ll see "iPad Air." That’s it. You have to go into the settings or check that serial number to ensure you aren't paying Air 5 prices for Air 4 performance. I’ve seen dozens of listings on eBay and Facebook Marketplace where the seller "mistakenly" lists an older model as a newer one. Using the serial number is the only way to avoid getting burned.
Actionable steps for your next purchase
Don't just take a seller's word for it. If you are in the market for a pre-owned device, follow this sequence to protect your wallet.
- Ask for a photo of the "About" screen and the back of the device. The numbers must match.
- Run the serial through checkcoverage.apple.com. Confirm the model name and age.
- Check the Model Number prefix. If it starts with "F," negotiate a lower price because it’s a refurb.
- Verify the "A" number to ensure it's a domestic model with the correct cellular bands for your carrier.
- Test the device in person if possible. Factory reset it and make sure you can get past the "Remote Management" or "Activation Lock" screens. If it asks for a previous owner's email, give it back and walk away.
Identifying your iPad correctly ensures you get the right accessories, the right software updates, and the right trade-in value when you're ready to upgrade again. It takes thirty seconds, but it saves hours of headache.
Check your number now. You might be surprised to find your "new" iPad was actually a warranty replacement or a refurbished unit from three years ago.
Next Steps
If you have confirmed your model but it's running slow, check your storage settings immediately. Often, an iPad "acting old" is just a system-taxing storage issue rather than hardware failure. If you're planning to sell, take a screenshot of that serial number verification page now—it's the best "proof of quality" you can provide to a potential buyer to build trust and close the deal faster.