You're staring at it. That one screw. The head is totally rounded out, looking more like a smooth bowl than a Phillips drive. You’ve tried the rubber band trick. You’ve tried pushing down until your veins pop. Nothing. This is exactly why you bought that little gold-colored kit in the plastic case. But honestly, if you don't know how to use Speed Out screw extractor sets correctly, you’re just going to turn a frustrating DIY project into a permanent metal-on-metal nightmare.
It happens to everyone.
The Speed Out is a specific brand of double-ended extractor made from hardened tool steel. It’s designed for those "oh no" moments when the screwdriver just spins and chews up the metal. It works on a simple, two-step logic: drill a clean hole, then bite into that hole with a reverse thread. Sounds easy, right? Well, the devil is in the details, specifically the drill speed and the pressure you apply. If you go too fast, you'll smoke the bit. If you don't push hard enough, the extractor side will just skate across the surface.
Why Your First Attempt Usually Fails
Most people fail because they treat an extractor like a regular drill bit. It isn't. When you’re drilling into wood, you want high RPMs. When you’re learning how to use Speed Out screw extractor tools, speed is actually your enemy. High speeds generate heat. Heat softens the metal of the screw and, more importantly, can dull the cutting edge of your extractor bit.
You need torque, not speed.
Think about it this way: the Speed Out is made of high-speed steel (HSS), but it’s still finite. If you trigger-happy your way through a Grade 8 bolt, you’re going to lose. You need to set your drill to the "low" gear setting (usually marked '1' on top of the drill) and keep a steady, slow pace.
Step 1: Prepping the Disaster Zone
Before you even touch the Speed Out, look at the screw. Is it rusted in place? If the answer is yes, stop. Grab a can of PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. WD-40 is fine for cleaning, but for a seized screw, you need a true penetrating oil. Spray it. Let it sit for ten minutes. This lubricates the threads so that when the Speed Out finally grabs, it actually has a chance of turning the screw rather than just snapping the extractor head off.
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Selecting the Right Size
The Speed Out kit usually comes with four bits. Using the wrong size is a classic rookie mistake.
- #1 is for those tiny screws, think #4-#7.
- #2 is the workhorse. This fits most standard #8-#10 screws you find in deck boards or furniture.
- #3 and #4 are for the big boys, like lag bolts or heavy-duty fasteners.
Hold the bit up to the screw head. The burnishing end (the drill side) should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw shank. If it's too big, you'll just drill the head off completely, and then you're looking at a much more expensive repair.
Step 2: The Burnishing (Drilling) Phase
Flip the bit so the "burnisher" side is pointing out. This is the side that looks like a regular drill bit but slightly flatter.
Crucial detail: Your drill must be in REVERSE.
I know that sounds counterintuitive. You’re drilling a hole, so you think "forward," right? Nope. The Speed Out burnisher is designed to cut while spinning backward. This is a safety feature; sometimes, the friction of the drilling is enough to catch the screw and back it out before you even get to the extraction step.
Place the tip exactly in the center of the damaged screw. Lean into it. You need a lot of downward pressure. Start the drill slowly in reverse. You’re looking to create a clean, conical divot about 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch deep. If you see metal shavings, you’re doing it right. If you see smoke and no shavings, you’re going too fast or your drill isn't in reverse.
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Once you have a nice, shiny hole, stop. Clean out the metal flakes. If you leave them in there, they act like ball bearings and prevent the extractor from grabbing.
Step 3: The Extraction
Now, flip the bit around to the threaded "extractor" side. This side looks like a tiny, tapered screw with very sharp, aggressive threads.
Keep your drill in REVERSE.
This is where the magic (or the frustration) happens. Place the extractor tip into the hole you just drilled. Start the drill at the absolute lowest speed possible. We’re talking "crawling" speed. As the drill turns, the reverse threads on the Speed Out will bite into the metal of the screw.
You will feel it grab. When it does, the drill might try to kick back in your hand. Hold it firm. Maintain heavy downward pressure. As the bit screws into the hole, it will reach a point where it can’t go any deeper, and it will start to force the damaged screw to turn with it.
Slowly—seriously, slowly—keep the trigger depressed. The screw should start to back out of the wood or metal. Once it’s out about half an inch, you can usually grab it with pliers or just finish it off with the drill.
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What to Do When It Won't Bite
Sometimes you follow every instruction on how to use Speed Out screw extractor kits and the thing still just spins. This usually happens because the hole you drilled isn't deep enough or the metal of the screw is harder than the extractor bit.
If the extractor is "skating" inside the hole:
- Flip back to the burnishing side.
- Drill a little deeper.
- Ensure you are using a "low" gear on your drill.
- Apply more weight. Use your body weight, not just your arm strength.
If you’ve totally stripped the hole out and even the largest bit won't grab, you might have to move to a more aggressive method like a "square" extractor or drilling the bolt out entirely and using a Tap and Die set to re-thread the hole. But for 90% of household stripped screws, the Speed Out gets it done if you just slow down.
Maintenance and Bit Life
These bits aren't forever tools. They are consumables. After a few uses, the sharp edges on the extractor side will dull. You can see it—the "teeth" will look rounded. When this happens, toss the bit. Trying to use a dull extractor is a recipe for a bad afternoon.
Also, keep them clean. After you extract a screw, use a pair of pliers to unscrew the old screw head off the Speed Out bit. Don't leave it on there to rust or get stuck. A little drop of 3-in-1 oil on the bits before you put them back in the plastic case goes a long way in preventing corrosion, especially if you keep your tools in a damp garage.
Practical Insights for Success
- Check your drill's battery. A dying battery might have enough juice to spin the bit but not enough torque to actually break the "stiction" of a rusted screw.
- Don't use an impact driver. This is a common mistake. Impact drivers use a hammering motion that can actually shatter the hardened steel of a Speed Out bit. Use a standard drill/driver with a clutch.
- Metal vs. Wood. If the screw is in metal, use cutting oil. If it's in wood, you usually don't need it, but it doesn't hurt.
- Clean the "swarf." That's the technical term for the metal curly-cues you create. Blow them out frequently.
Understanding how to use Speed Out screw extractor sets is mostly about ego control. You want the screw out now. But the tool requires you to work slowly. Mastering that tension is the difference between a five-minute fix and a ruined workpiece.
Next Steps for Your Project
- Verify your drill direction: Ensure you are in reverse for both the drilling and the extraction phases.
- Inspect the screw material: If it's stainless steel, you'll need to go even slower to avoid work-hardening the metal.
- Apply penetrating oil: If there is any sign of rust, apply oil and wait at least 10 minutes before attempting extraction.
- Set your drill to Gear 1: Use the highest torque setting available to prevent the motor from stalling at low RPMs.