How to Tell Which iPhone You Have Before You Trade It In or Buy a Case

How to Tell Which iPhone You Have Before You Trade It In or Buy a Case

You're standing in the middle of a Best Buy or staring at a checkout screen on Amazon, and you realize you have no clue. It's an iPhone. It's black. It has three cameras. Or maybe two? Honestly, unless you’re a total tech nerd who tracks every September keynote like it’s the Super Bowl, all these glass rectangles start looking exactly the same after a while.

Knowing how to tell which iPhone you have isn't just about curiosity. It’s about not wasting $50 on a MagSafe case that doesn't fit or getting lowballed on a trade-in because you thought you had a Pro Max when you actually have a Plus. Apple doesn't print the name of the phone on the back anymore. They stopped doing that years ago to keep the "minimalist aesthetic," which is great for photos but a total pain when you need to order a screen protector.

The Settings App is Your Best Friend

Forget looking at the chassis for a second. The absolute fastest way to get the truth is buried in your software. If the screen still turns on, you’re golden.

Go to Settings. Tap General. Hit About.

Right there, usually the third line down, it’ll say "Model Name." It’s that simple. You’ll see "iPhone 15 Pro" or "iPhone 13 mini" or whatever. But sometimes, especially if you’re dealing with a refurbished unit or a hand-me-down from a cousin, things get weird. You might see a "Model Number" that looks like a cryptic code starting with the letter M or N.

If you tap that model number, it toggles. It changes from that "M" code to a shorter string starting with "A." That "A" number is the universal ID for that specific hardware build. For example, an A2846 is an iPhone 15 Pro meant for the US market. If you’re looking at an older device that won’t boot up, you can actually find this number etched in tiny, tiny print inside the SIM tray slot or on the bottom of the device near the charging port on much older models like the iPhone 4.

Identifying by Hardware Clues

Maybe the phone is dead. Maybe you found it in a drawer and can't remember the passcode. You have to play detective.

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Look at the edges. Since the iPhone 12, Apple went back to the flat, industrial edges we loved on the iPhone 4 and 5. If your phone has rounded, curvy edges, you’re looking at something from the iPhone 6 through the iPhone 11 era. The iPhone 11 was the last flagship to feel "smooth" in the hand.

The Camera Count Strategy

The cameras tell the biggest story. If there are three lenses in a triangle, you have a Pro or a Pro Max. If there are two lenses stacked vertically, it’s probably an iPhone 11 or one of the newer non-Pro models like the 12 or 16. Wait, the 13, 14, and 15 actually have diagonal lenses. Apple swapped them to a diagonal layout to fit larger sensors into the smaller body.

Then there’s the iPhone 16. They went back to vertical! Why? Spatial video. They needed the lenses lined up to capture 3D video for the Vision Pro headset. So, if you see two big lenses stacked like a traffic light, and the phone feels brand new, you’re likely holding a 16.

The Port at the Bottom

This is a massive tell for 2026.

  1. USB-C: If your iPhone uses the same charger as a MacBook or an Android phone, it’s an iPhone 15 series or newer. Apple finally killed the Lightning port in 2023 because the EU basically forced their hand.
  2. Lightning: That small, rectangular 8-pin port? That’s the classic. Anything from the iPhone 5 (2012) to the iPhone 14 (2022) uses this.
  3. 30-Pin: If it’s a wide, chunky port, you’re holding a relic. That’s an iPhone 4S or older.

Screen Size and the "Notch" vs. "Island"

The "Notch"—that black cutout at the top of the screen—defined the iPhone look for years. It started with the iPhone X. But if you have a floating pill-shaped cutout at the top that changes shape when you play music or get a timer, that’s the Dynamic Island.

The Dynamic Island debuted on the 14 Pro and 14 Pro Max. By the time the iPhone 15 rolled around, Apple put it on every model. So, if you have a notch, your phone is likely an iPhone 12, 13, or 14 (base model). If you have the Island, it’s a 15, 16, or one of the high-end 14s.

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Sizes are tricky. You’ve basically got four sizes to worry about:

  • The Mini: 5.4 inches. Tiny. Only exists in the 12 and 13 lineups.
  • The Standard/Pro: 6.1 inches. This is the "normal" size.
  • The Plus/Pro Max: 6.7 inches. These are the giants.
  • The 2024/2025 Shift: Be careful here. The iPhone 16 Pro and Pro Max actually grew slightly to 6.3 and 6.9 inches respectively. They feel noticeably bigger if you’re coming from an older Pro model.

Why the SE Models Confuse Everyone

The iPhone SE is a wolf in sheep's clothing. It’s Apple’s "budget" phone, and it looks like a ghost from the past. The SE (2nd and 3rd gen) looks exactly like an iPhone 8. It has a Home Button. Remember those? If you have a physical circle button at the bottom of your screen and a glass back, you have an SE.

How to tell the SE 2 (2020) from the SE 3 (2022)? You basically can't by looking at them. They are identical on the outside. You have to go back to that "About" section in Settings or check the model number. The SE 3 supports 5G; the SE 2 does not. If your status bar says "5G," you’ve got the 3rd gen.

The Finish and Materials

Materials are a dead giveaway for the "Pro" tiers. Pro iPhones use premium metals.

  • Stainless Steel: Shiny, heavy, and a fingerprint magnet. Found on the iPhone X through the iPhone 14 Pro.
  • Titanium: Brushed, matte look. Much lighter. This started with the iPhone 15 Pro. If the metal frame of your phone looks "soft" and isn't shiny like a mirror, it’s Titanium.
  • Aluminum: This is what the "regular" iPhones (like the 13, 14, 15, and 16) use. It’s always matte and color-matched to the back glass.

Decoding the Model Number (The "A" List)

If you have the "A" number from the SIM tray or the Settings menu, you can match it to Apple's official database. While there are hundreds of regional variants, here are some of the most common ones you'll run into in the wild:

  • A3106: iPhone 15 Pro
  • A2846: iPhone 15
  • A2651: iPhone 14 Pro Max
  • A2633: iPhone 13
  • A2221: iPhone 11
  • A1660: iPhone 7

If your number isn't here, a quick search for "iPhone Model AXXXX" will give you the exact specs, including the storage capacity it was originally sold with.

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Common Misconceptions About iPhone Models

A lot of people think that because they have a certain color, it defines the model. Apple loves "Pacific Blue" one year and "Sierra Blue" the next. Color is a hint, but it’s not a rule. People put skins and replacement backs on phones all the time.

Another big mistake is assuming the number of cameras equals the "generation." I’ve seen people buy an iPhone 11 Pro thinking it was a 15 Pro just because it had three lenses. Look at the edges. If they are rounded, it cannot be a 15 Pro. The 11 Pro is the only "Pro" model with three cameras and rounded edges.

Actionable Next Steps

Now that you've figured out exactly what's in your pocket, here is what you should do with that information.

Check your Battery Health. Go to Settings > Battery > Battery Health & Charging. If you’ve identified your phone as an older model like a 12 or 13 and your "Maximum Capacity" is below 80%, a $89 battery replacement from Apple will make it feel like a brand-new phone. It’s much cheaper than buying a new one.

Verify your Trade-in Value. Don't just take the carrier's word for it. Now that you know you have, say, an iPhone 14 Pro and not just a "14," check sites like Gazelle, Back Market, or Apple's own trade-in page. The "Pro" tag usually adds $150–$200 to the value.

Check for Recall Programs. Sometimes specific models have known issues. For instance, some iPhone 12 and 12 Pro units had "No Sound" issues with the receiver. Apple often runs service programs for years for specific model numbers. If you know yours, you can check if you’re eligible for a free repair.

Buy the Correct Case. If you have an iPhone 13, a case for an iPhone 14 will almost fit, but the buttons are slightly shifted and the camera bump is a different size. Knowing your exact model saves you the hassle of a return shipment.

Finally, if you’re planning to sell it privately, take a screenshot of that "About" page. It’s the ultimate proof for a buyer that they are getting exactly what you’re advertising. It shows the model, the storage (128GB, 256GB, etc.), and that the device isn't carrier-locked.