You just got that brand-new Seiko 5 Sports or maybe a classic Alpinist. It looks incredible. You go to put it on, and it happens—the watch slides halfway down your forearm like a loose bangle. It's frustrating. You want to wear it right now, but the fit is just... off. Most people think they have to trek down to a jeweler and pay twenty bucks for a five-minute job. Honestly, you don't. Knowing how to take links out of a Seiko watch is a rite of passage for any watch collector, and it’s surprisingly easy once you realize Seiko uses three distinct systems for their bracelets.
If you mess this up, you're looking at scratched lugs or, worse, a bent pin that refuses to go back in. That's the nightmare scenario. But if you have a steady hand and a basic $10 tool kit from Amazon, you can do this at your kitchen table while you drink your coffee.
The Mystery of the Seiko Pin and Collar System
Before you grab a hammer, look at the back of your bracelet. Most modern Seikos, especially the "Monster" divers or the higher-end Prospex line, use what collectors call the "pin and collar" system. It's notorious. It’s the reason many grown men have cried over a piece of stainless steel. Basically, there’s a tiny metal tube (the collar) that provides the friction to hold the pin in place.
Here is the thing: if you don’t know that collar is there, it will fall out. You won't see it. It’s smaller than a grain of rice. You’ll put the pin back in, think you’re done, and then your watch will fall off your wrist in the middle of the street because there was nothing holding the pin in.
Sometimes the collar is located in the middle of the link. Other times, it sits in the outer edge. If you’re working on a Seiko Turtle (SRP777), for example, the collar is at the end. You need to push the pin out in the direction of the arrow. Use a dedicated pin pusher tool. If you try to use a paperclip, you’re going to have a bad time. The pin will resist, then suddenly give way. Don't lose that collar. If it’s stuck on the end of the tool, gently tap it off.
✨ Don't miss: Green Emerald Day Massage: Why Your Body Actually Needs This Specific Therapy
Standard Split Pins: The Easier Path
Lower-end Seikos, like many in the Seiko 5 line, often use split pins. These are much simpler. They look like a tiny bobby pin folded over on itself. When you look at the side of the link, you’ll see a line running down the middle of the pin. That’s the "split."
Always, always follow the arrows. Seiko stamps these on the underside of the links for a reason. You push the pin in the direction of the arrow. Once it pops out the other side, you’ll probably need a pair of needle-nose pliers to tug it the rest of the way. It should come out with a bit of a "click."
Once you’ve removed the necessary links—usually one from each side to keep the clasp centered—you put it back together by doing the reverse. But remember, the pin goes back in against the arrow. You’re pushing the rounded head back into the hole so it sits flush. If it’s sticking out even a fraction of a millimeter, it’ll snag on your shirt sleeve or scratch your skin. Use the flat side of your plastic hammer to tap it home.
Dealing with the Seiko "L-Shaped" Folded Links
You won't see these on new $500 Prospex models, but if you’re into vintage Seikos or the ultra-budget older Seiko 5s (like the SNK809), you’ll encounter folded links. These are a different beast. Instead of a pin, the entire link is made of a folded sheet of metal, and a flat, L-shaped piece of steel holds them together.
🔗 Read more: The Recipe Marble Pound Cake Secrets Professional Bakers Don't Usually Share
You need a small flathead screwdriver for this. Look for the little indentation on the underside of the link. You have to pry that L-shaped tab upward. It feels like you're breaking it. You aren't. Once it's pushed up, you can slide the entire connector piece out.
It’s tactile. It’s mechanical. It’s also a bit annoying because these bracelets are notorious "hair pullers." If you find yourself struggling with a folded link bracelet, some people honestly just suggest swapping it for a NATO strap or a leather band. But if you want that original look, just be patient. Don't force the metal, or you'll warp the link, and it'll never sit straight again.
Why Centering the Clasp Matters
A common mistake when learning how to take links out of a Seiko watch is taking all the links from one side. Don't do that. If you take three links off the 6 o'clock side and zero off the 12 o'clock side, the clasp is going to sit on the side of your wrist. It’s uncomfortable. It looks lopsided.
Ideally, the clasp should be perfectly centered on the underside of your wrist. Usually, this means the 6 o'clock side of the bracelet ends up slightly shorter than the 12 o'clock side. Why? Because the way the human wrist is shaped, a shorter bottom half helps the watch head stay centered on top of your arm. If the watch keeps sliding toward your thumb, your 6 o'clock side is probably too long.
💡 You might also like: Why the Man Black Hair Blue Eyes Combo is So Rare (and the Genetics Behind It)
Micro-Adjustments: The Final Polish
Once the links are out, you might find the watch is still a tiny bit too tight or too loose. This is where the micro-adjustment holes on the clasp come in. Look at the side of the buckle. You'll see two to four small holes.
You don't need to remove links for this. Just use a spring bar tool (or a toothpick in a pinch) to compress the spring bar inside the clasp and slide it to the next hole. It's the difference between a watch that leaves a red mark on your skin and one that feels like it’s floating perfectly.
Step-by-Step Action Plan for a Perfect Fit
To get this right the first time, follow these specific steps:
- Clear your workspace. Put down a microfiber cloth or a white towel. If a Seiko collar falls on a hardwood floor, it's gone forever. You'll never find it.
- Identify your system. Look for arrows. Look for pins. If you see a tiny tube inside the link, you are dealing with a pin-and-collar setup.
- Use a plastic/brass hammer. Steel hammers will mar the finish of your Seiko. Use the soft side of a jeweler's hammer to tap pins back in.
- Work from the center. Take links from both sides of the clasp to keep everything balanced.
- Test the fit frequently. It’s better to have to take it apart twice than to remove too many links and have to put one back in.
- Check for security. Give the bracelet a good tug once you're done. You want to make sure every pin is fully seated before you go out for the day.
If you hit a wall and a pin won't budge, stop. Take it to a professional. A $20 service fee is much cheaper than replacing a $150 bracelet because you snapped a pin inside the link. But for 90% of Seiko owners, this is a 15-minute DIY job that makes the connection to your watch feel a whole lot more personal.