How to Take Apart a Xbox One Controller Without Breaking the Plastic

You’ve probably been there. You’re mid-match, trying to clutch a 1v1 in Call of Duty or Apex Legends, and suddenly your character starts drifting toward the left like they’ve had one too many drinks at the tavern. Or maybe your "A" button feels like it’s stuck in a bowl of oatmeal. It’s frustrating. Honestly, it's enough to make you want to chuck the thing across the room, but those controllers aren't exactly cheap these days.

Learning how to take apart a xbox one controller is basically a rite of passage for any serious gamer. It’s not just about fixing drift; it’s about maintenance, customization, and saving yourself the $60 you’d spend on a replacement. But here’s the kicker: Microsoft didn't exactly design these things to be opened by the average person. They’ve hidden screws under stickers and used plastic clips that feel like they’re going to snap if you breathe on them the wrong way.

If you're nervous, good. That means you'll be careful. I’ve opened dozens of these—from the original 1537 models to the newer Bluetooth-enabled 1708 versions—and I can tell you that while it’s mostly straightforward, there are two or three spots where everyone messes up.

The Tools You Actually Need (Don't Wing This)

Don't even think about grabbing that flathead screwdriver from the junk drawer in your kitchen. You’ll strip the screws. Xbox One controllers use Security Torx T8 screws. These are the ones with the tiny little nipple in the center of the star shape. If you try to use a standard T8, it won't sit flush, and you'll ruin the screw head before you even get started.

You also need a T6 screwdriver for the internal boards, a plastic "spudger" or a guitar pick, and maybe some tweezers. Some people use a butter knife to pry the side grips off. Don't be that person. You’ll gouge the plastic and it’ll feel scratchy against your palms forever. Spend the five bucks on a basic electronics pry kit.

Popping the Side Grips

This is where the heart palpitations start. To get to the screws, you have to remove the two side panels—the parts your palms actually touch. They’re held in by plastic friction clips.

Take your plastic pry tool and wedge it into the seam where the triggers meet the grip. You have to apply more pressure than feels safe. You’ll hear a loud crack sound. Most people stop here because they think they’ve snapped a tab. Usually, you haven't. It’s just the sound of the plastic tension releasing. Slide the tool down the length of the seam, wiggling it as you go, until the panel pops off. Repeat this for the other side.

The Hidden Screw Trap

Once those grips are off, you'll see four screws—two on each side. But if you try to pull the shell off now, it won't budge. Why? Because Microsoft hid the fifth screw behind the sticker in the battery compartment.

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It’s right in the center. You can feel the indentation with your fingernail. Most people just poke their screwdriver right through the sticker. If you care about your warranty (which is probably expired anyway if you’re doing this) or just want it to look clean, you can try peeling it back with a hair dryer, but honestly, just stabbing through it is the "pro" move for speed.

Lifting the Shell

With all five screws removed, the front faceplate should just lift right off. No wires are attached to it. However, the back shell is a different story.

Flip the controller over. The back piece is what holds the rumble motors and the battery terminals. When you pull this off, the motors might try to fall out. They are connected by very thin, very fragile red and black wires. If you yank the back shell too hard, you’ll snap those wires off the solder points on the motherboard. Then you’re looking at a soldering job you probably didn't sign up for.

Understanding the Motherboard Sandwich

Inside, you’ll see two green circuit boards sandwiched together. This is where things get technical. The top board handles the buttons and the thumbsticks. The bottom board handles the power and the triggers. They are connected by a pin header.

If you’re just here to clean your buttons, you don't need to go further. You can pull the rubber conductive pads off and wipe the contacts with 90% Isopropyl alcohol. If you're trying to fix stick drift or replace a bumper, you have more work to do.

The Infamous Bumper Issue

The bumpers (LB and RB) on the Xbox One controller are actually one single piece of plastic that spans the top of the device. They are notoriously flimsy. To remove them, you have to pry up the middle section near the Xbox button.

Be careful with the tiny sync button at the top. It’s a separate, loose piece of plastic that likes to fall out and disappear into the carpet. If you lose that, you'll be using a paperclip to pair your controller for the rest of its life.

Dealing with Stick Drift

Let’s talk about the elephant in the room: the analog sticks. When you see someone explaining how to take apart a xbox one controller, they're usually doing it because of drift.

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Once the faceplate is off, you can pull the plastic thumbsticks straight up and off the metal sensors. You’ll see the ALPS potentiometers—the little green or orange boxes on the side of the stick mechanism. Usually, drift is caused by a tiny piece of debris or the wearing down of the carbon track inside that box.

You can try cleaning them with a blast of compressed air or a drop of contact cleaner. If the sensor is actually worn out, you'll need to desolder the entire stick module. That’s a level of repair that requires a steady hand and a decent soldering iron. Most people find it easier to just buy a new motherboard if the cleaning doesn't work.

Reassembly: The Part Everyone Forgets

Putting it back together is supposedly the reverse of taking it apart, but there's a trick to the battery springs. When you’re putting the back shell back on, the two metal battery contacts need to slide perfectly into the slots in the plastic. If they get bent or tucked behind the plastic, your controller won't turn on.

Also, make sure the rumble motors are seated deeply in their cradles. If they’re slightly askew, the shell won't close flush, and you’ll spend ten minutes wondering why there’s a gap near the triggers.

Why Some Models Are Different

If you’re working on an Elite Series 2 or one of the newer Series X/S controllers (the ones with the share button), the internals are slightly different. The Series X/S controllers have more aggressive textures on the grips and the screws are in slightly different spots, but the fundamental logic remains the same: hidden screws and terrifying plastic clips.

The original 2013 Xbox One controllers (Model 1537) didn't have a 3.5mm headphone jack. If you have one of these, the bumper assembly is even harder to remove because it’s not designed to be modular. If you break a bumper on an early model, honestly, it might be time to upgrade.

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Step-by-Step Summary for Quick Reference

1. Prep the Area: Grab a T8 Security Torx and a plastic pry tool. Use a magnetic tray for the screws. Those little guys love to roll away.
2. Remove Side Grips: Pry from the top seam near the triggers. Expect loud snapping sounds.
3. Find the Hidden Fifth: Unscrew the four visible screws on the handles and the one hidden behind the battery sticker.
4. Faceplate First: Lift the front cover off. Set it aside to clean later with soapy water if it's grimy.
5. Watch the Wires: Carefully separate the back shell, ensuring you don't snag the rumble motor wires.
6. Deep Clean: Use Isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip for the button contacts. Don't use water on the electronics.
7. Check the Springs: Ensure the trigger springs haven't popped out of place while the shell was open.
8. Snap and Screw: Align the battery contacts first, snap the shell together, and replace the five screws before clicking the side grips back on.

Critical Maintenance Tips

While you have the controller open, take a look at the "puck" area around the base of the thumbsticks. Over time, the plastic grinds against the ring, creating a fine white powder. This dust is a primary cause of sensor failure. Wipe it out completely.

If your buttons are "sticky" because of a spilled drink, don't just clean the top. You need to remove the rubber membrane and clean the actual plastic housing of the button. Sugar creates a bond that alcohol alone won't always dissolve on the first pass; you might need to gently scrape the residue with a toothpick.

Now that the controller is back together, plug it into a PC or your Xbox and use the "Test Interface" in the Accessories app. Move the sticks in circles to ensure the range of motion is back to 100%. If everything looks centered and the buttons click with that satisfying "new controller" snap, you've just saved yourself a trip to the store and kept another piece of hardware out of a landfill.

The next time your controller starts acting up, you won't be searching for guides; you'll just be reaching for your Torx set. It's a useful skill that pays for itself the very first time you use it. Just remember: patience is the most important tool in the kit. If something isn't moving, don't force it—check for a screw you missed.