Honestly, the hardest part of any gimp project isn't the complex weaving or the finishing touches. It's the first thirty seconds. If you've ever sat there with three strands of plastic lace dangling from your fingers, feeling like you need a third hand just to keep the tension, you aren't alone. It's awkward. Most people grow up learning the 2-strand square stitch at summer camp, so when you add that third string, your brain sort of short-circuits. You're trying to figure out how to start a 3 string lanyard without it immediately collapsing into a bird’s nest of plastic. It’s actually called the 3-strand brick or a flat braid depending on how you orient it, but most crafters just call it the "Triple."
The Secret to the Triple Start
Let's get one thing straight: you can't just wing the beginning. If the base is loose, the whole lanyard will twist and look like garbage by the time you're two inches in. You need a solid anchor. Most "expert" guides tell you to use a keychain ring immediately, but that actually makes it harder to see what you're doing for the first few loops. I usually recommend starting the stitch "in the air" and then sliding the ring on later, or using a heavy-duty clipboard to pin the ends down.
First, grab your strands. You'll usually want two strands of one color and one of a contrasting color, or three totally different ones if you're feeling chaotic.
Setting Up the "Bird's Foot"
You have to lay them out correctly. Take your three strands—let's say Red, Blue, and Yellow. Fold them in half to find the center point. If you’re using the "starter" method where you don't have a loop at the top, you just line up the ends. But for a standard lanyard, you’re folding them. This gives you six working ends. Wait. If you have three strings and fold them, you have six. That’s a 6-strand lanyard. To do a true how to start a 3 string lanyard setup, you actually only need one long string and one shorter string, or three separate strands tied at the top.
Let's assume you're using three separate strands. Tie a simple overhand knot at the top, leaving about an inch of "tail." Now, spread them out on a table. They should look like a crow’s foot.
The Mechanics of the First Stitch
This is where the magic (and the frustration) happens. Unlike the square stitch where you have two loops, the 3-string version relies on a "weave-over-under" pattern that feels more like traditional hair braiding but with a structural twist.
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Take the strand on the far left. Cross it over the middle strand. Now, take the strand on the far right and cross it over the new middle strand. You’re basically doing a flat braid. But wait—that’s just a braid. That’s not a lanyard stitch. To get that "boondoggle" thickness, you have to transition into the "Brick" or the "Triangle."
- Hold the three strands flat between your thumb and forefinger.
- Take the left strand and fold it over to the right, leaving a small loop.
- Take the right strand and fold it over to the left, crossing over the first strand.
- Take the middle strand. This is the one that usually confuses people. You have to weave it through the loops created by the first two.
It feels flimsy. It feels like it’s going to fall apart. It probably will the first three times you try it. Keep your thumb pressed firmly on the center of the cross.
Why Tension is Everything
If you pull one string tighter than the others, the lanyard will start to "corkscrew." Some people like that look. If you want a straight, professional-looking "brick," you have to tighten all three strands simultaneously. I usually use my pinky and ring fingers to hold the slack while my thumb and index finger do the heavy lifting.
Avoiding the "Twist" Trap
A common mistake when learning how to start a 3 string lanyard is accidentally flipping the lace. Plastic lacing (often called Rexlace or Pepperell) has a "shiny" side and a "matte" side. If you twist the lace mid-stitch, you’ll see the dull side popping up. It looks messy.
Professional crafters—the kind who have been doing this since the 90s—will tell you to run the lace through your fingers to "warm it up" before you start. This makes the plastic more pliable and less likely to kink. If you see a twist forming in your 3-string base, stop. Undo the stitch. It won't "fix itself" later.
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Real-World Materials: What Actually Works?
Don't buy the cheap, generic craft store lace that feels like thin ribbon. It doesn't hold the 3-string shape well. You want the slightly thicker, slightly more "rubbery" stuff. Brands like Pepperell or Rexlace are the industry standards for a reason. They have enough "grip" that the 3-strand start doesn't slide out of place while you're trying to tighten it.
Also, consider your color palette.
- High Contrast: Black, White, and Red. This makes the "V" pattern of the 3-strand stitch pop.
- Subtle: Three shades of blue. It looks like denim from a distance.
- The "Summer Camp": Neon green, neon pink, and neon orange. Hard on the eyes, but classic.
Transitioning to the Body
Once you’ve successfully completed the first three rows of the stitch, the lanyard will start to hold its own weight. You won't have to fight it as much. This is the point where you can attach your swivel hook or key ring if you didn't start with one. You just thread the ends through the ring and continue stitching around it, or use a "split ring" to slide it onto the finished starter loop.
Advanced 3-String Variations
Once you master the basic start, you can get weird with it. There’s a version called the "Super-3" where you use one core strand and wrap the other two around it in a DNA-style double helix. It’s technically a 3-string setup, but the starting method involves a "clove hitch" knot rather than the standard weave.
Most people stick to the flat 3-strand braid because it lays flat against a backpack or a pocket. It’s less bulky than the square or barrel stitches. It’s the "minimalist" version of lanyard making.
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Common Troubleshooting
What if one string is shorter than the others?
This happens because the "middle" string in a 3-strand weave often gets used up faster depending on how tight your loops are. If you’re starting a project, always make your center string about 20% longer than the outside two. It’s a pro tip that saves you from having a lopsided lanyard at the very end.
What if the start is "gappy"?
If you can see daylight through the first few stitches, your anchor wasn't tight enough. Take a pair of needle-nose pliers—yes, seriously—and gently tug each of the three strands at the base. Plastic lace has a bit of "memory," so once you cinch it down hard, it tends to stay there.
Actionable Steps to Perfect Your Start
To get a perfect 3-string start every time, follow this specific workflow:
- Cut your laces to size: Aim for at least 3 feet per strand. It's better to waste six inches of plastic than to run out when you're almost done.
- Check the "Face": Ensure all three strands have the shiny side facing up before you even make the first cross.
- The "Pinch" Method: Use a binder clip to hold the top of your strands against a table edge. This acts as your "third hand" and allows you to use both hands to weave the initial 3-string pattern.
- The First Inch Rule: Don't worry about speed. Focus entirely on the first inch of the lanyard. If the first inch is uniform, the rest of the project will naturally follow that tension.
- Secure the Tail: Once you have about two inches of stitch, go back to the very beginning and tighten the initial knot or loop.
Mastering how to start a 3 string lanyard is really just about overcoming that initial awkwardness of handling three independent variables at once. Once the rhythm clicks, it’s one of the fastest and most satisfying stitches to execute. Grab your lace, find a flat surface, and don't be afraid to pull those first few stitches tight enough that the plastic almost squeaks. That’s how you know it’s going to last.
Make sure you have a sharp pair of scissors nearby for the final trim, and if you really want to be professional, use a lighter to very—and I mean very—lightly singe the ends of the lace when you're finished. This melts the plastic slightly and "welds" the final stitch so it never unravels. Just don't set the whole thing on fire. Practice the weave, keep your tension even, and your 3-string lanyard will look like something bought from a pro shop rather than a first-timer's experiment.