You’ve seen them in every home decor shop. Those plump, expensive-looking throw pillows that somehow cost forty dollars each for what is essentially two squares of fabric and some fluff. It’s a racket. Honestly, learning how to sew a pillow is the "gateway drug" of the sewing world because once you realize how incredibly simple—and cheap—it is to make your own, you’ll never look at a West Elm display the same way again.
But here’s the thing. Even though it’s a beginner project, most people mess it up. They end up with "sad corners." You know the ones—where the corners of the pillow look like floppy dog ears because they didn't account for the bulk of the stuffing. Or they use a fabric that’s so thin it looks like a limp rag after three days on the sofa. If you want a pillow that actually looks like it belongs in a high-end magazine, you have to pay attention to the stuff nobody mentions in those five-minute TikTok tutorials.
The Secret to Not Having "Sad Corners"
The biggest mistake when you're figuring out how to sew a pillow is cutting a perfect square. It sounds counterintuitive, right? If you want a square pillow, you should cut a square. Wrong. Because of the way stuffing pushes against the fabric, the corners always lose tension.
Experienced sewists use a technique called the "tapered corner." Instead of cutting a straight line from one corner to the next, you actually curve the line slightly inward as you approach the corners. We’re talking maybe a half-inch of taper. When you turn that pillow right-side out and shove an insert in there, the tension of the stuffing pulls those corners out perfectly sharp. It’s a game-changer.
You also need to think about the "pinch test." Grab your fabric. If you can see light through it, it’s probably too thin for a durable throw pillow. Use something with weight—canvas, upholstery velvet, or even a heavy linen. If you're stuck with a lighter fabric because you just love the print, you’ve got to interface it. Iron some fusible interfacing onto the back. It adds the structure necessary to hold a shape rather than looking like a lumpy sack of potatoes.
Picking Your Guts: Down vs. Polyfill
What’s inside matters just as much as the stitching. You have options.
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- Polyester Fiberfill: It’s cheap. It’s washable. But it can get "clumpy" over time. If you use this, you have to pull the fluff apart into tiny pieces before stuffing. Don't just grab a handful and shove it in. That leads to a lumpy pillow that feels like it’s filled with marshmallows.
- Down or Feather Inserts: This is the gold standard for that "karate chop" look. If you want a pillow that you can dent in the middle for a designer look, you need feathers.
- Memory Foam Scraps: Great for floor pillows, but honestly, they’re a bit heavy for a sofa.
If you are using a pre-made insert, here is a rule you cannot break: Buy an insert that is two inches larger than your pillow cover. If your cover is 18x18 inches, use a 20x20 inch insert. This ensures the pillow is plump and the fabric is taut. A 18-inch insert in an 18-inch cover always looks a little bit deflated.
How to Sew a Pillow Without Losing Your Mind
First, get your tools. You don't need a thousand-dollar machine. A basic straight stitch will do. You’ll need your fabric, matching thread, a fabric marker (or just a piece of chalk), pins (or clips, which I personally prefer because they don't prick you), and a good pair of fabric shears. Don't use your kitchen scissors. Please. You'll just chew up the edges.
The Measuring Phase
Measure twice, cut once. It's a cliché because it's true. If you’re making a standard 18-inch pillow, you aren't cutting 18-inch squares. You have to account for the seam allowance. Usually, a half-inch on each side is standard. So, you’d cut two 19-inch squares.
Lay your fabric out flat. Use a quilting ruler if you have one to ensure your corners are actually 90 degrees. If your fabric has a pattern, like stripes or a large floral print, you need to think about "fussy cutting." This just means centering the pattern so you don't end up with a giant flower cut off at the bottom of the pillow. It wastes a bit more fabric, but the result looks professional.
The Sewing Part
Place the "right sides" together. This means the pretty sides of the fabric are touching each other, and you're looking at the back of the fabric. Pin all the way around.
Start sewing on the bottom edge, about four inches from a corner. Sew all the way around, pivoting at the corners. To pivot, stop the machine with the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric 90 degrees, put the foot back down, and keep going.
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Crucial step: Leave a gap. You need a hole about 4 to 6 inches wide on the bottom edge to turn the pillow right-side out. If you sew it shut, you've just made a very flat fabric sandwich that you can't use.
Finishing the Edges
Before you turn it, clip the corners. Cut across the corner diagonally, being careful not to snip your stitches. This removes the bulk so your corners can actually be pointy.
Reach into that gap, grab the far side, and pull the fabric through. It’s like birthing a pillow. Once it’s right-side out, use a chopstick or a specialized "point turner" to gently push those corners out. Don't push too hard or you'll poke a hole right through your hard work.
The Professional Way to Close the Gap
Most beginners just topstitch the opening shut on the machine. It’s fast. But it also looks a bit messy because you can see the line of thread on the outside.
If you want it to look "boutique," use the Ladder Stitch (also called a hidden stitch).
- Fold the raw edges of the opening inward so they align with the rest of the seam.
- Thread a hand-sewing needle.
- Go back and forth between the two folds of fabric like you’re making the rungs of a ladder.
- When you pull the thread tight, the seam magically zips shut and disappears.
It takes an extra five minutes. It’s worth it.
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Beyond the Basics: Envelope Covers
If the idea of hand-sewing a gap shut makes you want to quit before you start, try the envelope method. Instead of two squares, you use one long piece of fabric or three overlapping pieces. The back of the pillow has an opening that looks like the back of a stationery envelope.
This is arguably the best way to learn how to sew a pillow because there is no "closing" required. You just slide the insert in. It also makes it easy to take the cover off and throw it in the wash when the dog inevitably decides it's his new bed.
To do this, your back pieces need to overlap by at least 3 or 4 inches. If the overlap is too small, the pillow will "gape" open and show the white insert inside, which looks tacky.
Troubleshooting Common Flubs
Did your fabric pucker? You might have your tension too high or you're pulling the fabric through the machine instead of letting the "feed dogs" do the work. Let the machine guide the fabric; you just keep it straight.
Is the seam ripping when you stuff it? You probably forgot to "backstitch" at the beginning and end of your sewing. Always hit that reverse button for a few stitches to lock everything in place.
Practical Next Steps for Your Sewing Project
- Pre-wash your fabric: If you're using cotton or linen, it will shrink. If you sew the pillow and then wash it later, it’ll turn into a crumpled mess. Wash and dry the fabric exactly how you plan to wash the finished pillow before you even start cutting.
- Iron as you go: This is the difference between a homemade pillow and a handmade pillow. Iron your seams flat. Iron the whole thing before stuffing. Heat sets the stitches and gives everything a crisp finish.
- Batch your work: Once you have the hang of it, cut out four or five pillows at once. It’s much faster to do all the cutting, then all the pinning, then all the sewing in a "production line" style.
- Experiment with trim: Once you're comfortable with a basic square, try adding pom-pom trim or piping. You sandwich the trim between the layers of fabric before you sew. It's a little trickier to navigate the corners, but it adds a massive amount of personality.
The reality is that a pillow is just a 3D canvas. Now that you know the structural requirements—the tapered corners, the insert sizing, and the hidden closure—you can make basically anything. Go find some weird vintage fabric at a thrift store or use an old pair of denim jeans. The process is the same, and the satisfaction of someone asking "Where did you buy that?" and being able to say "I made it" never gets old.