You’ve probably been playing checkers since you were five, but honestly, there’s a good chance you’ve been doing it slightly wrong this whole time. Most people just throw the board down and start sliding pieces. It’s checkers, right? It’s not rocket science. But there is a very specific, standardized way to handle the how to set up a checkers board process that separates a casual "kitchen table" game from something that actually follows the American British (Straight) rules.
If you mess up the board orientation, the whole geometry of the game shifts. Suddenly, the "Double Corner"—that crucial defensive spot—isn't where it's supposed to be. It ruins the math of the game.
The "Dark Square on the Left" rule
First thing’s first. Look at the board. Most checkers boards are 8x8 grids, exactly like a chess board. You’ve got 64 squares total. But here is the part where people trip up immediately: which way does the board face?
🔗 Read more: How the New York Second Chance Lottery Actually Works and Why Most People Miss Out
Rotate the board so that a dark square is in the bottom-left corner for both players.
In the world of competitive draughts (that's the fancy name for checkers), the rule is simple: "Dark on the Left." If you are sitting at the table, the square closest to your left hand must be a dark one. If it’s a light square, spin the board 90 degrees. You’re good to go.
Why does this matter? Well, in standard English Draughts or American Checkers, the game is played only on the dark squares. Those 32 light-colored squares are basically "lava." They are decorative space. If you start the board on the wrong orientation, you’ll find the pieces don’t align correctly for the legal moves of the game. It feels clunky. It feels off. Because it is.
Getting the pieces in the right "houses"
Now, grab your pieces. You should have 12 of one color and 12 of another. Usually, it's red and black, or sometimes white and black.
Start with the dark squares. You’re going to fill the first three rows closest to you. That means you’ll use 12 pieces per side. Since you’re only using the dark squares, each row will have four pieces, followed by a gap, then four pieces.
It looks like this:
Row 1 (closest to you): Piece on dark square, skip light, piece on dark, skip light.
Row 2: Skip light, piece on dark, skip light, piece on dark.
Row 3: Piece on dark square, skip light, piece on dark, skip light.
When you finish, you’ll have two empty rows in the middle of the board. That’s the "no man’s land" where the first captures usually happen. If you’ve done it right, each player has a "Double Corner" to their right and a "Single Corner" to their left. The Double Corner is two dark squares sitting side-by-side on the edge; this is your fortress. It’s much harder for an opponent to trap a King in a Double Corner than a Single Corner.
Who actually goes first?
This is where the myths start. "Red goes first" is the common refrain in US households.
Actually, the rule is that the "darker" color goes first. In a standard set, that’s usually the black pieces. If you have red and white, red goes first. If you have black and red, black goes first.
Wait.
Before you start arguing with your grandfather about this, check which version of the rules you’re using. In many international variations, like Polish Checkers (played on a 10x10 board), the lighter color actually moves first. But for the standard 8x8 game we are talking about here, the dark-colored pieces get the opening move.
Switch colors every game. It’s the only fair way. Checkers is a game of "tempo," and having the first move is a measurable advantage, though not as massive as it is in chess.
The "Checkers vs. Draughts" terminology confusion
If you're looking up how to set up a checkers board online, you’ll inevitably run into the word "Draughts." Don't let it confuse you. It’s the same thing. Mostly.
The British call it Draughts. Americans call it Checkers. The setup for "Straight" checkers is identical in both countries. However, if you accidentally stumble into "Italian Draughts" or "Spanish Draughts," the board setup is actually mirrored. In those versions, you play on the white squares, and the board is rotated so a light square is on the bottom left.
If you are in the US or UK, stick to the dark squares. It’s the standard for a reason. It keeps the game consistent across tournaments sanctioned by the American Checker Federation (ACF).
🔗 Read more: Why Sea of Stars Solstice Shrines Are the Most Rewarding Puzzles You’ll Probably Miss
Common mistakes and "Illegal" setups
I’ve seen people try to play with all four rows filled. That’s a mess. 16 pieces per side makes the board too crowded. You need that open space in the middle to develop a strategy.
Another weird one? People setting up on the light squares because "they look cleaner." Don't do that. The dark squares are traditionally used because, back in the day, checkers were often played in pubs or outdoor parks where the boards were carved into wood or stone. The darker "recessed" squares held the chalk or paint better.
Also, make sure your pieces are flat side down. Most modern checkers have a crown or a star on one side. That "King" side should be hidden until a piece actually reaches the last row (the "King Row").
Why the "King Row" matters for setup
When you are placing your pieces, the row furthest away from you—your opponent’s first row—is your goal. This is the King Row.
A lot of beginners forget that the setup determines the King Row. If you set the board up incorrectly (on the wrong colors), you might end up with a board where it’s impossible to "King" a piece because the diagonal paths don't lead into the corners correctly.
When a piece reaches that final row, you "crown" it. Usually, you just stack another piece of the same color on top. If you’re playing with a cheap plastic set, the pieces usually have ridges so they lock together. If you're playing with coins (a classic move), just double them up. A King can move backward. A regular piece cannot. This is why the setup is so vital; the entire game is a race to that back row.
Actionable steps for your first game
Don't just read about it. Go grab the board.
- Orientation Check: Sit down and make sure there is a dark square at your bottom-left.
- The 12-Piece Count: Ensure both you and your opponent have exactly 12 pieces. If you're missing one, a bottle cap or a quarter works fine.
- The Gap: Look at the middle. Are there exactly two empty rows between the red and black armies? If yes, you’re set up correctly.
- Identify the Double Corner: Look at your right-hand side. You should see two dark squares near the edge. That's your safety zone.
- Dark Moves First: The player with the black (or darker) pieces makes the first move. Usually, this is a move from the second row into the center.
Now that the board is ready, remember the "forced jump" rule. Most people play "casual" rules where you can choose not to jump an opponent's piece. In real competitive checkers, if you can jump, you must jump. It adds a whole layer of sacrifice and strategy that most people miss out on because they set the game up and play it like a mindless pastime.
Checkers is actually a "solved" game. This means that if two perfect computers play each other, the game will always end in a draw. But humans aren't computers. We make mistakes in the setup, we miss jumps, and we lose our Kings. Setting the board up correctly is the first step toward actually learning the deep strategy behind those 64 squares.