It happens. Maybe your screen is stuck on that infinite white Apple logo, or you’re getting ready to hand your old device over to a stranger from Facebook Marketplace. You need to wipe the slate clean. Honestly, the process of how to restore iPhone with Mac has changed more than most people realize, especially since Apple killed off iTunes a few years back. If you’re looking for that musical note icon on a modern MacBook, you’re going to be looking for a long time.
Everything lives in the Finder now. It’s better, mostly.
Before you even think about clicking that "Restore" button, you have to understand the stakes. Restoring isn't just a "refresh." It’s a digital scorched-earth policy. It deletes every single photo, every half-finished text thread, and that high score in a game you haven't played since 2022. Unless you have a backup, it's gone. Forever.
The big shift from iTunes to Finder
Back in 2019, macOS Catalina changed the game. Apple decided that iTunes was trying to do too much, so they split it into Music, TV, and Podcasts. But where did the device management go? It moved to the Finder. That’s the smiley-face icon on your dock.
If you are running macOS Catalina, Big Sur, Monterey, Ventura, or anything newer like macOS Sonoma, the Finder is your hub. You plug in your cable and... nothing. Or so it seems. You actually have to open a new Finder window and look at the sidebar under "Locations." Your iPhone will be sitting there, waiting. If you're still on an ancient Mac running Mojave or earlier, okay, fine, you still use iTunes. But let's assume you've updated your computer in the last half-decade.
The cable matters more than you think
Don't use a cheap gas station cable. I’ve seen dozens of restores fail at 60% because of a faulty third-party lightning or USB-C cable. Use the one that came in the box. If your Mac only has USB-C ports and your iPhone is an older model with a USB-A cable, use a high-quality adapter. Connection drops during a firmware rewrite are a nightmare. They can "brick" the phone, leaving you with a very expensive paperweight that requires a trip to the Genius Bar.
How to restore iPhone with Mac step by step
First, disable Find My iPhone. This is the one step everyone forgets. Apple’s Activation Lock is so secure that the Mac won’t let you touch the internal software if it thinks the phone might be stolen.
- Go to Settings on your iPhone.
- Tap your name at the top.
- Hit Find My, then toggle off Find My iPhone.
- You'll need your Apple ID password.
Now, connect the devices. If this is the first time you’ve plugged this phone into this Mac, you’ll get a "Trust This Computer?" prompt on the iPhone screen. Tap Trust and enter your passcode. On the Mac, click the iPhone in the Finder sidebar. You’ll see a screen that looks remarkably like the old iTunes interface.
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The Backup Phase
Don't skip this. Even if you think you don't need the data, just do it. Under the "General" tab, select "Back up all of the data on your iPhone to this Mac." I always check the box for "Encrypt local backup." Why? Because it’s the only way to save your saved passwords and Health data. If you don't encrypt it, you'll be re-logging into every single app manually for the next three days. Once the backup is finished, you’re ready for the big red button.
Click Restore iPhone.
A window will pop up asking if you're sure. It’ll tell you that your Mac is going to contact Apple to download the latest iOS software. Click Restore again. Now, leave it alone. Don't wiggle the cable. Don't decide now is the time to organize your desk. Let the progress bar do its thing. The iPhone will reboot, show the Apple logo with a loading bar, and eventually, it’ll greet you with "Hello" in twenty different languages.
What if the iPhone is totally unresponsive?
Sometimes you can't just click a button because the phone won't even turn on properly. This is where Recovery Mode comes in. It feels a bit like a secret cheat code.
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For an iPhone 8 or later (including the iPhone 15 and 16), it’s a rhythmic dance:
- Press and quickly release Volume Up.
- Press and quickly release Volume Down.
- Press and hold the Side button.
- Keep holding it even when the Apple logo appears.
- Only let go when you see a picture of a cable pointing toward a computer.
The Mac will instantly scream at you with a pop-up saying "There is a problem with the iPhone that requires it to be updated or restored." Choose Restore. This will download a fresh copy of the IPSW file (the iPhone’s operating system) and force-install it. It’s the ultimate "fix-it" for software glitches.
Common headaches and how to jump them
Errors happen. Error 4013 is a classic. Usually, it means the connection was interrupted. Try a different port. Try a different cable. If you're on a MacBook, make sure it’s plugged into power. Restoring a phone consumes a surprising amount of juice, and if the Mac goes to sleep or the battery dies mid-restore, you're in for a bad afternoon.
Another weird quirk: Disk space. Your Mac needs enough free space to download the iOS update file, which can be 6GB or more, plus space to unpack it. If your Mac’s SSD is stuffed to the brim with 4K video, the restore will fail with a vague error message. Clear out your Downloads folder first.
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DFU Mode: The nuclear option
If Recovery Mode fails, there is a deeper level called DFU (Device Firmware Update) mode. This is the deepest possible restore. It doesn't even load the bootloader; it goes straight to the hardware. It’s tricky to get into and requires precise timing, but it can solve almost any software-based issue. Most people will never need this, but it's there if the screen stays black and the Mac won't recognize the device.
Why you might choose a Mac over iCloud
iCloud is convenient, sure. But restoring from a Mac is significantly faster. You aren't relying on your Wi-Fi speeds to download 100GB of photos. It’s a direct wire. Also, if you’re trying to downgrade software (which Apple rarely allows, but occasionally happens during beta seasons) or if you’re dealing with a device that has a disabled passcode, a Mac is your only real path forward.
There’s also the privacy aspect. Some people just don't want their entire digital life sitting on a server in North Carolina. A local, encrypted backup on your MacBook Pro is under your physical control. That matters to a lot of users in 2026.
Finalizing the setup
Once the restore is finished, the Mac will ask if you want to set up as a new device or restore from a backup. If you’re selling the phone, stop here. Unplug it and turn it off. The new owner will get that fresh "new phone" experience.
If you’re fixing a bug, try "Set Up As New" first. Sometimes, the bug you’re trying to escape is actually hidden inside your backup data. If you restore the backup immediately, you might just be importing the problem right back onto the clean device. Test the "clean" phone for an hour. If it works, then go ahead and wipe it again and bring your data back.
Next Steps for a Successful Restore:
- Check your macOS version: Click the Apple icon > About This Mac. If you're on 10.15 or later, use Finder. If earlier, open iTunes.
- Verify your storage: Ensure your Mac has at least 15-20GB of free space to handle the software download and extraction.
- Audit your cable: Inspect your Lightning or USB-C cable for any fraying or loose connections.
- Update your Mac: A Mac running an outdated version of macOS might not be able to "talk" to a brand-new iPhone running a newer iOS. Update the Mac software first.
- Start the backup: Connect the phone, select it in Finder, and run an Encrypted Backup before touching the Restore button.