You’re staring at that little glowing blue circle and realizing you have no idea how to get the thing off the wall. Maybe you’re moving. Maybe the battery finally gave up the ghost after a long winter, or perhaps you’re upgrading to the latest Pro model because the lag on your current one is driving you crazy. Whatever the reason, how to remove the Ring doorbell isn't always as intuitive as the marketing materials make it look. Honestly, if you don't have that specific orange-handled screwdriver that came in the box three years ago, you're probably already feeling a bit of DIY dread.
Don’t panic. It’s not glued on with industrial cement, even if it feels like it.
Most people trip up because Ring has used about half a dozen different mounting systems since they launched. A Ring Video Doorbell 2 comes off differently than a Doorbell 4, and the Wired version is a whole different ballgame because you’re dealing with actual electricity. You’ve got to be careful. If you yank it too hard, you’ll tear the anchors right out of your siding, and then you’re looking at a weekend of patching and painting that nobody has time for.
The Mystery of the Security Screw
The biggest hurdle is the security screw. Look at the very bottom of your device. See those tiny, weirdly shaped screws? Those are there to stop people from just walking up and stealing your $200 camera. They aren't standard Phillips head screws. They are usually T15 or T6 Torx screws, often with a little "security" nipple in the middle that prevents a standard bit from fitting.
If you lost your original Ring tool, you can't just use a flathead. Well, you can, but you’ll probably strip the head and then you are truly stuck. I've seen people try to use steak knives or tweezers. Just don't. You can grab a replacement kit for a few bucks online, or if you have a high-end bit set in the garage, look for the "star" shapes.
Once those screws are loose, don't expect them to fall out. In many newer models, the screws are "captive," meaning they stay attached to the faceplate so you don't lose them in the grass. This is a lifesaver. Just loosen them until they feel floppy, then stop.
Taking Off the Faceplate (The "Pop" Technique)
Once the security screws are backed out, the faceplate is usually held on by plastic tension clips. This is where people get nervous about snapping the plastic. Put your thumb on the bottom of the faceplate and your index finger at the top. Give it a firm, steady pull from the bottom. It should click and tilt upward.
If it's stuck, it might be painted over. This happens a lot. If the previous owners painted the house and didn't mask off the doorbell, the latex paint acts like a glue. You might need to take a utility knife and very, very gently score the line where the plastic meets the wall.
Battery Models vs. Wired Models
If you have a battery-powered model (like the Ring Doorbell 3 or 4), removing the faceplate is usually all you need to do to swap the battery. But if you’re taking the whole unit down, you’ll see the mounting screws holding the base to the house. Unload those, and the whole thing comes free.
For the Ring Doorbell Wired or the Pro models, there’s an extra step. You’ll see two wires attached to the back with silver screws. Stop. Go to your breaker box first. Seriously. Even though it’s "low voltage," shorting those wires can blow your transformer, and replacing a doorbell transformer in a hot attic is a nightmare you want to avoid. Flip the power, then unscrew the terminal wires.
Dealing with the Wedge or Corner Kit
Sometimes, when you look at how to remove the Ring doorbell, you realize it’s sitting on a plastic ramp. That’s a wedge kit. It’s there to angle the camera down so you aren't just recording the street or the side of your brick entry.
These are actually great because they provide a flat surface for the doorbell, but they add a layer of complexity. You have to remove the doorbell from the wedge first, and then unscrew the wedge from the wall. If you try to do it all at once, you’ll likely crack the wedge. Most of these use standard Phillips screws for the wall mount, but the doorbell-to-wedge connection might still use those specialized Ring screws.
💡 You might also like: Samsung S25 Series Europe FCC Filings: What the Real Data Tells Us About the Next Flagship
Check the sides. Sometimes dirt and spiderwebs get jammed in the gap between the wedge and the doorbell. A quick blast of compressed air or a soft brush can make the sliding mechanism work much smoother.
What to do with the "Ghost" in the App
Removing the physical device is only half the battle. If you're selling the house, the new owners are going to be annoyed if the doorbell is still registered to your account. It becomes a paperweight for them.
- Open your Ring app.
- Go to Device Settings.
- Look for "General Settings."
- Find "Remove this Device."
Do this while you're still standing near the unit. Once you hit remove, the device is "de-provisioned." If you don't do this, and you move three states away, you’ll have to deal with tech support calls or emails from a confused homebuyer asking for your password. Nobody wants that. Also, if you have a Ring Protect subscription, make sure you cancel or transfer it so you aren't paying $5 a month for a house you don't live in anymore.
The Stubborn Screw Problem
We’ve all been there. You go to turn the screw and it just spins. Or worse, the head is totally rounded off. If you’re trying to figure out how to remove the Ring doorbell and the security screw is stripped, you have a few options before you call a locksmith or smash it with a hammer.
First, try the rubber band trick. Place a wide, flat rubber band over the tip of your screwdriver and press it firmly into the stripped screw. The rubber fills the gaps and gives you just enough grip to turn it. If that fails, a tiny drop of superglue on the tip of a sacrificial screwdriver (one you don't mind ruining) can work. Hold it steady for a minute, let it bond, and turn slowly.
If the screw is stuck because of rust, a tiny drop of WD-40 applied with a Q-tip—don't spray the whole camera!—can loosen the threads. Let it sit for ten minutes. Patience is your best friend here.
Handling the Wiring Safely
When you finally get the unit off and the wires are dangling from the wall, don't just leave them there if you aren't replacing the doorbell immediately. Use a bit of electrical tape to cap the ends. If those two wires touch while the power is on, they can create a small spark. It won't kill you, but it can kill your doorbell chime or the transformer hidden in your closet.
If you're moving, and you want to be a nice person, label the wires. A little piece of masking tape that says "Doorbell" helps the next person immensely.
Moving to Action
Now that you know the mechanics, here is how you actually get it done without losing your mind.
- Find the right bit: Search for a T15 or T6 Torx bit. If you can't find one, order a "Ring Replacement Parts" kit today; it’s cheaper than a new faceplate.
- Kill the power: Even if it’s a battery model, if it has "hardwired" backup, hit the breaker. Safety first.
- Back out the security screws: Only until they feel loose. Don't try to pull them out completely if they are the captive type.
- Pop the cover from the bottom: Use a "hinge" motion, pulling the bottom out and up.
- Unscrew the mounting plate: Use a standard Phillips head. Keep these screws in a Ziploc bag so they don't vanish.
- Disconnect the app: Go into the settings and "Remove Device" to clear the internal memory and ownership logs.
Once the device is off, take a damp cloth and wipe down the area behind where the doorbell sat. It’s usually full of dust and dead bugs. If you're installing a different brand, you'll likely need to drill new holes, as Ring's hole pattern is pretty proprietary. Fill the old holes with a tiny bit of exterior-grade caulk to prevent water from getting into your wall. You're done. No more "Motion Detected" alerts every time a squirrel runs past.