You’re staring at that massive HD touchscreen and wondering if one wrong move will turn your expensive piece of fitness equipment into a very heavy clothes rack. It’s a valid fear. Whether you’re moving to a new apartment, finally upgrading to the Bike+ swivel screen, or just trying to tighten a shaky monitor, knowing how to remove peloton screen is basically a rite of passage for owners. Honestly, it’s not as scary as it looks. You don’t need a degree in mechanical engineering, but you do need a bit of patience and the right hex key.
Peloton hardware is notoriously sturdy, yet the screen is the most vulnerable part of the whole rig. It’s the brain of the operation. If you drop it, you're looking at a replacement cost that ranges anywhere from $375 to over $500 depending on the model and whether you can find a refurbished unit on eBay. Let's avoid that.
Why You’d Ever Want to Take This Thing Off
Most people think they’ll set up their bike and never touch it again. Life happens. Maybe you're moving across state lines and the movers flat-out refused to touch the bike unless the "sensitive electronics" were packed separately. Or perhaps your screen started doing that annoying "ghost touching" thing where it selects random classes while you’re mid-climb.
Sometimes, it's just about maintenance. Dust gets trapped in those ports. Wires wiggle loose. If you’ve bought one of those third-party "pivots" to make your standard Bike screen rotate like the Bike+ does, you’ve got to get the monitor off first. Whatever the reason, doing it correctly keeps your warranty intact and your heart rate down.
The Tool Situation (Don’t Lose the Bag)
Remember that little black tool kit that came in the box? The one you probably threw in a "random stuff" drawer three years ago? You need it. Specifically, you need the 3mm or 4mm Allen wrench (hex key) and the Phillips head screwdriver.
If you lost them, don't panic. Any standard metric hex set from a hardware store works. Just don't try to use a flathead screwdriver to "wedge" things open. You’ll strip the bolts, and once those are stripped, you are in for a world of pain that involves power drills and a lot of swearing.
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Before You Start: The Golden Rule
Turn it off. Seriously. Unplug the power brick from the wall and then pull the power cord out of the back of the monitor. Working on live electronics is a gamble you don’t need to take.
Step-by-Step: How to Remove Peloton Screen (Original Bike)
The original Peloton Bike has a slightly different mounting system than the Bike+. It’s a bit more "exposed."
First, go to the back of the monitor. You’ll see a plastic rectangular cover. This is the cable guard. You need to gently—and I mean gently—pop this off. It usually slides or clips out. Once that’s gone, you’ll see two or three cables plugged into the back. These are your power and data lines. Unplug them carefully. Don't yank by the cord; grab the plastic head of the plug.
Now, look for the four screws on the back of the monitor. These are VESA mount screws. While holding the monitor with one hand (this is where a friend comes in handy), unscrew them. If you’re doing this solo, use your chest or shoulder to prop up the screen so it doesn't face-plant onto the handlebars the second the last screw comes out.
The screen should now slide off the mounting plate. Lay it face down on a soft surface. A yoga mat or a thick towel is perfect. Do not lay it on a hardwood floor. Even a tiny grain of sand can scratch that glass.
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Dealing with the Bike+ (The "Slide" Method)
The Bike+ is a different beast. It was designed to rotate, so the mounting bracket is a bit more integrated.
- Rotate the screen 180 degrees so you’re looking at the back easily.
- Remove the plastic rear cover. On the Bike+, this often snaps off to reveal the mounting bolts.
- Unplug the USB-C cable. The Bike+ uses a simplified cabling system compared to the older models.
- Locate the mounting bolts. On many newer versions, there are two primary bolts holding the monitor to the swivel arm.
- Support the weight! The Bike+ screen is heavy and the weight distribution is awkward once the bolts are loose.
Common Pitfalls and How to Not Ruin Your Day
People mess this up in two ways: over-tightening and cable strain.
When you’re putting it back together, you might be tempted to crank those screws down as hard as possible. Don't. You’re screwing into plastic and light metal. "Hand-tight" is plenty. If you over-torque them, you risk cracking the casing or making it impossible to remove the screen next time.
As for cables, ensure they have a little bit of "slack." If the cable is pulled tight like a guitar string, every vibration from your 100-cadence sprint is putting micro-tears in the internal wiring. Eventually, the screen will just start flickering and die. Always leave a little loop of extra wire before you snap the plastic covers back on.
The "Moving House" Reality Check
If you are removing the screen because of a move, wrap it in bubble wrap. Then wrap it in a blanket. Then put it in a box. Do not—under any circumstances—let the movers put it in the "miscellaneous" bin with your kitchen toaster. The glass on these screens is not Gorilla Glass; it’s vulnerable to pressure. If something heavy leans against it in a moving truck, the LCD will bleed, and you'll have a permanent purple ink blotch on your screen.
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Troubleshooting After Reinstallation
So you put it back on and... nothing. The screen is black.
Stay calm. 90% of the time, the data cable isn't pushed in all the way. These ports can be tight. Give the plug a firm push until you feel or hear a slight click. Check the power brick too. Sometimes in the process of moving the bike, the two halves of the power cord (the part that goes into the wall and the part that goes into the "brick") have wiggled loose.
If the screen turns on but the touch doesn't work, you likely have a static buildup or a loose internal ribbon cable, though the latter is rare unless you dropped it. Try a hard reset: hold the power button and the volume up button simultaneously for about 15 seconds.
Actionable Steps for a Successful Removal
- Find a "Spotter": Even if you're strong, the angle of the screen makes it awkward. Have someone hold the monitor while you work the wrench.
- Label Your Screws: Put the four VESA screws in a Ziploc bag and tape it directly to the back of the screen. You will lose them otherwise.
- Document the Cables: Take a quick photo of the back of the monitor before you unplug anything. It helps you remember which wire goes into which port (especially on the older Gen 2 screens).
- Check for Software Updates: If you're replacing an old screen with a new one, plug the bike into your router via Ethernet for the first boot-up if possible. It makes the initial 2GB update go way faster than spotty Wi-Fi.
Taking the screen off is essentially the reverse of the assembly instructions found in the Peloton manual, but with 100% more caution. Just take it slow, keep your screws organized, and never force a plastic part that feels like it’s resisting. If it’s stuck, there’s probably a hidden screw or a clip you missed. Once the screen is safely tucked away or replaced, you can get back to the real work—actually riding the thing.