It happens to the best of us. You set a passcode on your iPad six months ago, shoved the tablet in a drawer, and now that you actually need it for a flight or a meeting, your brain is a total blank. Or maybe your toddler decided to play "guess the numbers" until the screen coldly informs you that the device is disabled. It feels like you’re holding a very expensive glass brick. Honestly, it’s frustrating.
Apple’s security is intentionally ironclad. That’s great for stopping thieves, but it’s a nightmare when the person locked out is actually you. If you want to remove passcode from ipad settings because you simply don't want to use one anymore, that's easy. But if you’re locked out? That’s a whole different ballgame.
You’re going to lose your data. I have to be upfront about that. Unless you have a recent backup in iCloud or on a computer, wiping the passcode means wiping the iPad. There is no magic "backdoor" that Apple support can give you over the phone. They won't do it. Privacy laws and their own encryption protocols make it impossible for them to just "click a button" and let you back in.
The "Easiest" Way: Erase iPad (iPadOS 15.2 and Later)
If your iPad is running relatively modern software—specifically iPadOS 15.2 or later—you might not even need a computer. This is a life-saver. You just need to keep failing. After a few wrong attempts, a "Forgot Passcode?" or "Erase iPad" option usually pops up at the bottom of the screen.
Tap it.
The iPad will warn you that everything is getting deleted. You’ll have to type in your Apple ID password to prove you aren't a random person trying to steal the device. Once you do that, the iPad scrubs itself clean. It’s basically a factory reset triggered from the lock screen. But here’s the catch: the iPad must be connected to Wi-Fi or cellular data for this to work. If it’s in Airplane Mode or the Wi-Fi is toggled off, that button might never show up.
Using a Mac or PC to Force a Reset
What if the "Erase" button doesn't appear? You’ll need a computer. If you're on a Mac with macOS Catalina or later, you'll use Finder. If you're on an older Mac or a Windows PC, you’re still using iTunes (yes, it still exists for this specific purpose).
First, turn the iPad off.
This part is tricky because the button combinations change depending on which model you have. If your iPad has a Home button, you’ll hold the top button until the power off slider appears. If it doesn't have a Home button (like the newer Pros and Airs), you hold the top button and one volume button simultaneously.
Now, get your cable ready. You need to put the iPad into Recovery Mode. For iPads without a Home button, click and release Volume Up, click and release Volume Down, then hold the top button while connecting it to your computer. Don't let go. Keep holding it even when the Apple logo appears. You only let go when you see the icon of a cable pointing toward a computer.
On a Mac, a window will pop up in Finder saying there’s a problem with the iPad. It’ll give you two choices: Update or Restore.
Choose Restore.
Your computer will start downloading the software for your iPad. If this takes longer than 15 minutes, the iPad might exit recovery mode. Don't panic. Just let the download finish, turn the iPad off, and do the button dance again. Once the process finishes, the iPad restarts, and the passcode is gone.
What About iCloud Find My?
Maybe your iPad is sitting on your coffee table and you’re at work. Or maybe the screen is so cracked you can't even type the passcode to try the "Erase" method. You can actually remove passcode from ipad by using the Find My app on another device or logging into iCloud.com on any browser.
🔗 Read more: Why Pictures of Amazon Gift Cards are Mostly Scams and How to Spot the Real Ones
Go to "Find Devices," select your iPad, and hit "Erase This Device."
This is an "all or nothing" move. It’s intended for when a device is stolen, but it works perfectly for forgotten passcodes. As soon as the iPad pings a Wi-Fi network, it’ll receive the command and wipe itself.
The "Activation Lock" Hurdle
Removing the passcode is only half the battle. Once the iPad is wiped and you're going through the "Hello" setup screens, you're going to hit the Activation Lock. This is Apple's theft-deterrent system. It will ask for the Apple ID and password that was previously linked to the device.
If you bought the iPad secondhand and the previous owner didn't log out, you are essentially stuck. There are "bypass" tools advertised all over the internet, but most are scams or incredibly sketchy. They often involve "jailbreaking" the device in a way that breaks features like iMessage or FaceTime.
If you are the original owner and you forgot your Apple ID password too? Head over to iforgot.apple.com. You’ll need access to your recovery email or a trusted phone number. If you have the original receipt from an Apple Store or an authorized retailer, you can actually file a formal "Activation Lock Support Request" with Apple. They can take a few days to review it, but they can legally unlock the hardware for you if you prove you bought it.
Why Third-Party Software is Usually a Waste
You’ll see a ton of ads for software that claims to "Unlock any iPad in 1 click." Most of these programs just automate the Recovery Mode process I described above. They charge you $40 for something you can do for free with a USB cable and a laptop.
Some of these tools claim they can remove passcode from ipad without data loss.
Spoiler: They can't.
Unless your iPad is running an ancient version of iOS from nearly a decade ago, the encryption is too strong. The keys to decrypt your photos and messages are literally tied to your passcode. When you delete the passcode through a reset, those keys are destroyed. Any software claiming otherwise is likely trying to install malware or just taking your money for a fancy interface.
Setting it Up Right the Second Time
Once you’re back in, you have a choice. Do you set a passcode again? Yes. You absolutely should. But maybe do it differently this time.
If you have an iPad with Face ID or Touch ID, make sure those are calibrated well. Add a second "Appearance" for Face ID if you often wear glasses or a hat. For Touch ID, register more than one finger. If your index finger is peeling or burnt from cooking, your middle finger might still get you in.
Most importantly, write the passcode down. Put it in a password manager like Bitwarden or 1Password. Or, honestly, just write it on a piece of paper and hide it in a physical safe.
Summary of Actionable Steps
- Check for the "Erase iPad" button: Try the passcode until the lockout timer appears. If you see "Erase iPad" at the bottom, tap it and enter your Apple ID password.
- Use Recovery Mode: If the on-screen option doesn't work, plug into a computer. Use the specific button sequence (Volume Up, Volume Down, hold Power) to enter Recovery Mode.
- Restore via Finder/iTunes: Select "Restore" to wipe the device and the passcode.
- Clear Activation Lock: Log in with your Apple ID after the reset to fully reactivate the iPad.
- Verify your backups: Once you’re back in, go to Settings > [Your Name] > iCloud > iCloud Backup and make sure it’s turned on so you never lose data again.
If you find yourself stuck in a loop where the computer doesn't recognize the iPad, try a different cable. Usually, a faulty USB-C or Lightning cable is the culprit behind 90% of "Restore Errors." Make sure you are using an Apple-certified MFi cable. Cheap gas station cables often don't handle data transfer well enough to finish a full firmware restore.
Finally, if the iPad belongs to a company or a school, it might be under "Management" (MDM). In that case, no amount of resetting will help you. You'll need to contact the IT department to have them release the device from their server. Even a full factory reset won't remove those corporate profiles.