How to remove over the range microwave without breaking your back or your backsplash

You're staring at that bulky, greasy box above your stove and thinking it's time for a change. Maybe it finally quit on you with a pathetic pop and a smell of burnt ozone, or maybe you’re just tired of that mid-2000s white plastic look clashing with your new stainless steel range. Whatever the reason, you've decided to remove over the range microwave units today. It’s one of those DIY jobs that looks deceptively simple until you realize the thing weighs 60 pounds and is held up by a prayer and two hidden bolts.

Honestly, people underestimate the physics involved here. It isn't just about unscrewing a few things. You are dealing with a cantilevered weight suspended over a glass-top stove—which, by the way, will shatter into a million expensive pieces if you drop the microwave.

The stuff nobody tells you before you start

Most tutorials make this look like a five-minute breeze. It's not. Before you even touch a screwdriver, you need to clear your counters. Seriously. You need space to move, and you definitely don't want to be tripping over a toaster when you're cradling a microwave.

Check your cabinets. Most over-the-range (OTR) models are bolted through the bottom of the cabinet directly above them. If that cabinet is full of pancake mix and old spice jars, you're going to have a bad time. Empty it out completely. You’ll also need to locate where the power cord goes. Usually, there's a hole drilled in the cabinet floor, and the microwave is plugged into a dedicated outlet inside that cabinet. Unplug it now. Don't wait. Trying to wiggle a cord through a tight hole while balancing a heavy appliance is a recipe for a pulled muscle or a broken cord.

Here is a quick reality check on tools. You don't need a massive workshop, but a few specific things make this safer:

• A Phillips head screwdriver (manual is often better than a drill for the final few turns).
• Adjustable pliers (if your venting is hooked up).
• Painters tape (to protect your backsplash).
• A sturdy friend. Seriously, don't do this alone unless you're a professional powerlifter.

Getting the prep work right

The very first thing you should do—and I mean this—is cover your cooktop. Lay down a thick piece of plywood if you have it, or at least a few layers of heavy towels and a flattened cardboard box. If that microwave slips even an inch, it’s going to hit your stove. A replacement glass top for a modern range can cost upwards of $400. That’s more than the microwave is worth.

Take a look at the top of the microwave inside the cabinet. You’ll see two or three long bolts. These are what’s actually holding the unit up. But wait! Before you unscrew them, look at the back. The microwave is hooked onto a metal mounting plate screwed into the wall studs. It's a "tilt and pull" system.

If your microwave is vented to the outside, there’s an extra step. You’ll likely have a duct connector. Sometimes these are taped with foil tape, or they might be screwed into a transition piece. You’ve got to disconnect this first, or you'll end up ripping your ductwork out of the wall, which is a whole different level of home repair nightmare.

The actual process to remove over the range microwave

This is the part where you need that friend. One person needs to hold the microwave from underneath, pushing it slightly upward to take the tension off the bolts. The second person—the one with the screwdriver—is up top in the cabinet.

1. Start by loosening the top bolts. Don't take them all the way out yet. Loosen them about halfway. This allows the microwave to sag just a tiny bit so you can see if it’s stuck on any paint or grease.
2. Once you’re sure it’s moving freely, have the person underneath get a firm grip.
3. Remove the bolts completely.
4. Now, the microwave will want to tilt forward. This is because it’s still hooked onto that metal lip on the wall plate.
5. Gently tilt the front of the microwave down. The back should stay hooked for a second.
6. Lift the unit up and away from the wall to clear the mounting tabs.

It’s heavy. It’s awkward. It’s probably covered in a layer of sticky kitchen grease that makes it hard to hold. Take it slow. Once it's off the wall, set it down on that protected stovetop or move it straight to the floor.

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Dealing with the aftermath (the wall plate and grease)

Once the unit is gone, you’re left with a mounting bracket on the wall. It’s usually held in by a mix of heavy-duty lag bolts into studs and toggle bolts into the drywall. Take these out carefully. If you have a tiled backsplash, be especially gentle with the toggle bolts so you don't crack a tile.

You are going to see a "shadow" on the wall. It’s a combination of dust, steam residue, and grease that hasn't seen the light of day in ten years. Standard dish soap usually isn't enough. You’ll want something with a degreaser. Pro tip: if the grease is really baked on, a little bit of vegetable oil on a paper towel can actually help soften it up before you scrub with soap. Science! Like dissolves like.

Common pitfalls and "Oh No" moments

Sometimes, the previous installer got creative. I've seen microwaves where the power cord was literally plastered into the wall (don't do this) or where they used the wrong screws that stripped the second you touched them. If a screw head strips, don't panic. Get a pair of locking pliers (Vise-Grips) and grab the head of the bolt from inside the cabinet.

Another issue is the "hidden screw." Some older models, particularly some GE or Samsung units from the early 2010s, had decorative trim pieces that hid additional mounting points. If the unit isn't budging after the top bolts are out, check behind the grease filters on the bottom. Occasionally, a stray screw is tucked up in there.

What about the weight? An average OTR microwave weighs between 50 and 65 pounds. That doesn't sound like much until you're holding it at chest height over a hot stove. If you are doing this solo—which again, I don't recommend—you can use a "microwave jack" or even a stack of sturdy boxes to support the weight while you unscrew the top. But a friend is cheaper and more reliable.

Is it worth repairing instead?

Since you're going through the trouble to remove over the range microwave hardware, you might be wondering if you should just fix the old one. Usually, the answer is no. If the magnetron is gone, the part alone is almost the cost of a new unit. If it's just a handle or a door latch, sure, fix it. But these things are generally built as "disposable" appliances these days. The lifespan of a modern OTR microwave is roughly 7 to 10 years. If yours is older than that, just recycle it and move on.

Moving forward with your project

Now that the space is empty, you have choices. You can install a new, quieter model with better CFM (cubic feet per minute) airflow for venting. Or, you might decide to ditch the microwave entirely and install a sleek range hood.

If you go the range hood route, remember that you’ll have a gap in your cabinetry and likely some unpainted drywall to deal with. Also, range hoods usually require a 6-inch or 8-inch round duct, while microwaves often use a 3.25x10-inch rectangular duct. You’ll need an adapter.

Practical Next Steps

1. Measure the opening: Even though "30 inches" is the standard width, measure it anyway. Check the depth too. Some newer microwaves are deeper and will stick out further from your cabinets.
2. Check your venting: Decide now if you want to vent internally (recirculating) or externally. External is always better for clearing smoke and smells, but it requires a clear path to the outside of your house.
3. Inspect the electrical: Ensure your outlet is grounded. If you noticed the lights flickering when the old microwave ran, now is the time to call an electrician to check that dedicated circuit.
4. Dispose of the old unit: Don't just toss it in the trash. Most municipalities have e-waste recycling centers. Some appliance retailers will even take the old one for a small fee when you buy a new one.

Cleaning up the mounting area is the most satisfying part. Once that wall is scrubbed and the new bracket is leveled, you're halfway to a better kitchen. Just remember to keep those stovetop protectors in place until the very last screw is tightened on your next appliance.