So, you’ve finally decided to swap out those scratchy stock switches for something a bit more premium, or maybe your "W" key just stopped responding in the middle of a raid. It happens. But before you go grabbing a pair of pliers and yanking at your expensive PCB, let's talk about how to remove key switch components without actually breaking your keyboard. Honestly, it’s one of those tasks that feels terrifying the first time you do it, and then by the fiftieth switch, you’re basically doing it with your eyes closed.
The reality is that mechanical keyboards are remarkably modular, but they're also surprisingly fragile if you apply force in the wrong direction. People think "metal tool + plastic part = easy," but that's exactly how you end up with cracked housings or, even worse, lifted pads on a circuit board.
Is your keyboard even hot-swappable?
This is the big one. Seriously.
If you try to remove a key switch from a keyboard that isn't hot-swappable, you’re going to have a very bad day. Most entry-level mechanical keyboards from brands like Corsair, Razer, or Logitech (older models specifically) are soldered. This means the metal pins of the switch are literally melted into the circuit board with lead or lead-free solder. You can pull until your face turns blue; that switch isn't coming out without a soldering iron and a desoldering pump.
Check your box. Look for the term "Hot-Swappable" or "Kailh/Gateron Sockets." If you see those, you're golden. If you're rocking a budget board from five years ago, you're likely looking at a soldering project, not a quick pull-and-replace job. Brands like Keychron, Glorious, and Akko have made hot-swap the industry standard lately, which is a massive win for everyone's sanity.
The tools of the trade
Don't use a screwdriver. Please.
You need a dedicated switch puller. Most keyboards come with a cheap, thin wire puller for the keycaps and a small metal U-shaped tool for the switches. The "U" tool is okay, but it's often too short and puts a lot of strain on your fingers. If you’re doing a full 100% layout keyboard, your hands will be cramping by the time you hit the numpad.
A lot of enthusiasts prefer the "Gateron" style or "IC Extractor" style pullers. They’re longer, have better grips, and allow you to apply even vertical pressure. This matters because if you pull at an angle, you risk bending the copper pins or snapping the plastic tabs that hold the switch into the plate.
The actual process of how to remove key switch units
First, take off the keycap. Use your wire puller. Don't use your fingers—you'll just get oils all over the switch stem and potentially snap the keycap's cross-stem. Once the switch is exposed, you'll see two small plastic tabs. One is on the "north" side (top) and one is on the "south" side (bottom).
This is the secret sauce.
You have to squeeze those two tabs simultaneously. If you only squeeze one, the other side stays locked into the plate. You’ll feel a tiny "click" or a bit of give when the tabs are depressed. That’s your signal to pull straight up.
Wait.
If it doesn't move with moderate pressure, stop. Take a breath. Sometimes the plate (the metal or plastic sheet holding the switches) is slightly tighter than it should be. This is common with "polycarbonate" plates which can be a bit flexy. If the switch is stubborn, try wiggling it slightly north and south—never east and west—while applying upward pressure.
Why the orientation matters
Most switches are oriented with the LED slot at the top (North-facing) or bottom (South-facing). If you’re trying to figure out how to remove key switch parts and you’re squeezing the sides instead of the top and bottom, you’re literally just squeezing the housing of the switch. You aren't touching the clips.
Look closely at the switch. See those two little protruding plastic bits? Those are your targets. If you're working on a "North-facing" board, your puller needs to be vertical. If it's some weird custom offset, adjust accordingly.
Dealing with stuck switches and tight plates
Sometimes a switch feels like it’s been glued in. This usually happens on keyboards with integrated plates or very thick brass plates. Brass doesn't give. Steel doesn't give. If the tolerances are tight, the friction alone can hold a switch in place even when the tabs are pressed.
In these cases, I usually suggest using a flat-head precision screwdriver—very carefully—to just barely nudge the tab from underneath if the puller can't get a grip. But honestly? Usually, it's just a matter of the puller slipping off the plastic. Plastic on metal is slippery.
If you’re working on a "Plate-less" build (rare for beginners, but it happens), the switches are held in only by the PCB. These come out much easier, but you have to be extra careful not to yank the hotswap socket right off the board. Yes, that can happen. The "Kailh" style sockets are held on by two small solder points. If you pull too hard and the switch is stuck, the socket can pop off like a scab. That’s a soldering repair you don't want.
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What about those "Optical" switches?
If you have a Razer Huntsman or a SteelSeries Apex Pro, you aren't dealing with traditional mechanical switches. You’re dealing with optical switches.
The good news? They’re even easier to remove because there are no metal pins. They just break a beam of light. The bad news? You can only replace them with other optical switches from the same ecosystem. You can't put a fancy "Holy Panda" tactile switch into a Razer optical board. It won't work. The tech is totally different.
To remove these, the process is the same: squeeze the tabs, pull up. Since there’s no friction from metal pins in a socket, they usually pop out like butter.
Common mistakes that will ruin your day
- Pulling by the stem: Never, ever try to pull a switch out by the little cross-shaped stem that the keycap sits on. You will just pull the "stem" and "spring" out of the housing, leaving the rest of the switch stuck in the board. Now you have a disassembled switch and a much harder job.
- The "Wiggle" of Death: People like to wiggle switches left and right to loosen them. On a hot-swap board, the pins are arranged horizontally or vertically. Wiggling "against" the pins will bend them flat against the bottom of the switch. While you can usually bend them back with tweezers, do it too many times and the metal fatigues and snaps.
- Forgetting the LED: Some older boards have through-hole LEDs. These are tiny light bulbs that stick up through the switch. If your board has these, you cannot remove the switch without desoldering the LED first. Most modern boards have SMD (Surface Mount Device) LEDs that sit flat on the PCB, so the switch just sits over them. Check for this before you pull.
How to handle the pins during re-installation
Since you've learned how to remove key switch units, you're eventually going to want to put new ones in. This is where most people actually break their keyboards.
Before you push a new switch in, look at the bottom. Are the two copper pins perfectly straight? If one is even slightly tilted, it won't enter the socket. Instead, the socket will push the pin flat against the bottom of the switch.
You’ll finish the whole board, plug it in, and realize the "E" key doesn't work. You’ll pull it out and see the pin crushed.
Pro tip: Use a pair of tweezers to straighten pins before inserting. When you push the switch into the board, it should "click" into the plate. If you feel a lot of resistance, stop. Pull it back out and check the pins. They're likely bending.
Cleaning while you're at it
Since you have the switches out, look at the plate. It's probably disgusting. Hair, dust, skin cells—it all lives under your switches. Use a can of compressed air or a small brush to clean the plate while the switches are removed. It’s the only time you’ll have such easy access.
Don't use liquids. Even if the keyboard is unplugged, moisture can get trapped inside the hotswap sockets and cause corrosion over time. A dry brush is your best friend here.
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Actionable steps for a successful swap
- Identify your board: Confirm it is hot-swappable. If there's no mention of it in the manual or on the product page, assume it's soldered.
- Get a real puller: Spend the $10 on a long-handled switch puller. Your fingers and your keyboard's housing will thank you.
- Power down: Always unplug the keyboard. While hotswapping is "hot" by definition, static discharge or shorting a pin is a real risk when you're poking metal tools near a powered PCB.
- Work in rows: Don't just pull random switches. Work systematically. It helps you keep track of which sockets might be giving you trouble.
- Inspect every switch: Before putting a new switch in, check the pins. Before putting a removed switch back in, check the pins.
- Test immediately: Use a website like "Keyboard Tester" once you've replaced a few switches. Don't wait until the whole board is put back together to find out the first switch you installed has a bent pin.
The process of how to remove key switch components is fundamentally about patience rather than power. If you find yourself gritting your teeth and pulling with your whole arm, something is wrong. The tabs aren't pressed, the switch is soldered, or you're hitting the plate. Take it slow, keep your puller vertical, and you'll be swapping out switches like a pro in no time.