You’ve finally finished that heavy canvas tote or that custom corset, and now comes the part that makes everyone sweat: punching holes in the finished product. Honestly, learning how to put eyelets in fabric feels a lot like high-stakes surgery. One wrong move with the hole punch and you’ve got a frayed mess that no amount of Fray Check can save. But here’s the thing—most people treat eyelets and grommets like they're the same thing, and that's the first mistake.
Eyelets are typically smaller, one-piece fasteners used for lightweight decorative touches or thin laces. Grommets? Those are the heavy-duty, two-piece beasts you see on shower curtains and boat covers. If you try to use a tiny eyelet on a thick leather belt, it’s going to pop out the first time you sit down. It just will. I’ve seen it happen dozens of times in sewing circles and DIY workshops.
The Tool Kit You Actually Need (And the One You Don't)
Forget those cheap "all-in-one" kits you find in the bargain bin at the grocery store. They’re flimsy. They bend. They make you want to throw your project out the window. If you're serious about getting a professional finish, you need a dedicated setting tool.
Basically, you have three choices. The first is the classic plier-style setter. Dritz makes a common version that looks like a pair of weird nutcrackers. These are okay for thin cotton or single layers of ribbon. Then you have the "hammer and anvil" set. This is a small metal base and a rod that you whack with a mallet. It’s loud, but it’s incredibly effective because you control the force. Finally, there’s the heavy-duty press—the gold standard. If you’re doing fifty eyelets for a historical costume, get the press. Your wrists will thank you.
Why Interfacing is Your Best Friend
You cannot just jam a metal ring into a single layer of jersey knit and expect it to stay. It won't. The fabric will stretch, the weave will pull apart, and you’ll be left with a gaping hole. You need reinforcement.
Think of interfacing like the skeletal system for your fabric. I always suggest using a heavy-weight fusible stabilizer on the back of the fabric where the eyelet will go. Even better? Sandwich a small square of scrap denim or canvas inside the facing if the garment allows for it. This gives the metal teeth something "meatier" to grab onto. Without that extra layer, the eyelet is basically trying to hold onto air. It’s going to fail.
Step-by-Step: Putting Eyelets in Fabric the Right Way
First, mark your spots. Do not eye-ball this. Use a disappearing ink pen or tailor's chalk. Measure twice, then measure again. Once that hole is cut, there is no "undo" button in real life.
The Hole Punch. Most people try to use embroidery scissors to snip a little "X" in the fabric. Stop doing that. It creates uneven tension. Use a rotary punch or a hollow punch tool. The hole should actually be slightly smaller than the barrel of the eyelet. You want the fabric to stretch tightly around the metal, creating a snug fit that prevents shifting.
The Insertion. Push the "male" part of the eyelet (the one with the long neck) through the hole from the "right" side of the fabric to the "wrong" side. If you're using two-piece grommets, the washer goes on the back.
The Set. Align your tool. This is the crucial moment. If the eyelet is tilted even a fraction of a millimeter, the metal will crimp unevenly. It’ll look jagged and might even snag your laces.
The Force. If you're using a hammer, give it a firm, straight-down tap. Don't go full Thor on it immediately. Give it a light tap to "seat" the metal, check the alignment, and then give it the finishing blow. You’re looking for the back of the metal to roll over smoothly against the fabric.
Common Disasters and How to Dodge Them
Ever notice how some eyelets look "cracked" on the back? That's usually because the metal is too brittle or the tool didn't match the eyelet size perfectly. Brand compatibility matters. If you’re using Dritz eyelets, use the Dritz tool. Mixing and matching brands is a gamble that usually ends in jagged metal edges that scratch your skin.
Another issue is "spinning." If the eyelet spins freely after you’ve set it, it’s too loose. This usually happens because the fabric is too thin for the length of the eyelet barrel. You can fix this by adding a "shim"—a tiny circle of felt or leather hidden on the back—to take up that extra space. It sounds like a hack, but it’s what professionals do when they're working with delicate silks or thin synthetics.
Choosing the Right Metal for the Job
Not all eyelets are created equal. You’ll find brass, aluminum, and steel options. Aluminum is soft and easy to set, which is great for beginners, but it's not very strong. If you’re making something that will be under tension—like the lacing on the back of a dress—you need brass or steel.
Also, consider the finish. "Painted" eyelets look cool in the store, but the paint often chips off the second the setting tool hits it. If you want color, look for "enameled" or "anodized" versions. They’re tougher. Honestly, if you're worried about rust—especially for outdoor gear or bags—stick to stainless steel or high-quality brass. Nickel-plated brass is the industry standard for a reason; it looks sharp and holds up against the elements.
The "No-Tool" Myth
You might see "no-tool" eyelets that claim to snap together by hand. Be skeptical. While they exist, they are almost exclusively decorative. They lack the mechanical "grip" required to hold weight. If you're just putting a little silver ring on a scrapbooking project, fine. If you're learning how to put eyelets in fabric for a piece of clothing you actually plan to wear, buy the tools. They pay for themselves in the lack of frustration alone.
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Testing on Scraps: The Non-Negotiable Rule
I cannot stress this enough: always do a test run. Use the exact same fabric, the exact same interfacing, and the exact same number of layers as your final project. This is where you find out if your hammer is too heavy or if your hole punch is getting dull.
Sometimes, certain fabrics like faux leather react weirdly to the pressure. They can "bruise" or leave a permanent ring around the eyelet site. A test scrap lets you figure out if you need to put a piece of tissue paper between the tool and the fabric to protect the finish. It takes two minutes and saves hours of heartbreak.
Advanced Techniques for Heavy Materials
When you're working with multiple layers of heavy denim or leather, the standard "whack it" method might leave you with a lopsided result. For these materials, I highly recommend a "tapered" punch. It creates a cleaner edge in the hide.
Also, for leather specifically, a tiny dab of leather glue around the hole before you insert the eyelet can act as an extra insurance policy. It prevents the fibers from stretching out over years of use. It's these tiny, obsessive details that separate a "homemade" look from a "handmade" masterpiece.
Actionable Next Steps
- Audit your fabric: Determine if your material is a knit or a weave. Knits require significantly more stabilization (interfacing) than wovens to prevent the eyelet from pulling through.
- Match your hardware: Ensure your eyelet barrel length is appropriate for your fabric thickness. If the barrel is too long, it will collapse and look messy; if it’s too short, it won't catch the washer.
- Invest in a hollow punch: If you're doing more than five eyelets, stop using scissors. A $10 hollow punch set will create perfectly circular holes that won't fray as easily during the setting process.
- Secure the back: For high-tension areas, always use a two-piece grommet rather than a one-piece eyelet to ensure the hardware doesn't rip out under pressure.