You’ve got the suit. It fits perfectly. The shirt is crisp, the shoes are shined, and you look in the mirror only to realize something is missing. It’s that empty breast pocket. It looks like a void. But then comes the anxiety: how do you actually handle that little scrap of silk or linen?
How to put a pocket square in a suit isn't just about folding fabric. It’s about intentional nonchalance. If it looks too perfect, you look like a mannequin. If it’s too messy, you look like you stuffed a used napkin in there. Honestly, most guys overthink this. They treat it like origami when it should be treated like style.
The pocket square is the most underrated tool in a man's wardrobe. It’s the easiest way to separate yourself from every other guy in a navy blazer. It adds texture. It adds personality. Most importantly, it bridges the gap between your tie and your jacket.
The Presidential Fold: Keep It Simple
If you’re wearing a tuxedo or a very formal business suit, don't get fancy. This is often called the Flat Fold. It’s basically a thin, horizontal sliver of fabric peeking out.
Take your square—linen works best here because it’s stiff—and fold it in half. Then fold it again. You want a rectangle that matches the width of your pocket. Slide it in so only about half an inch shows. That’s it. It’s clean. It’s sharp. It says you know the rules.
James Bond wears this fold. Why? Because it’s efficient. It doesn't distract from the face. If you are using a silk square for this, it might slide down and disappear into the depths of your lining, which is incredibly annoying. Pro tip: if your pocket is too deep, put a couple of cotton balls or a folded tissue at the bottom of the pocket to act as a "shelf" for the square.
The Puff Fold: The Art of the Messy Silk
Silk is different. It’s fluid. It’s shiny. You shouldn't try to fold silk into sharp corners; it just won't stay. For silk, you want the Puff.
Lay the square flat on a table. Or your hand. Pinch the very center of the fabric and lift it up. The corners should hang down naturally. Now, with your other hand, tuck the hanging corners upward toward the center, or just let them stay loose if you're going for a "pointed" look. Stuff the bunched-up middle into your pocket.
You’re aiming for a rounded, organic shape. It should look like you just shoved it in there five seconds before walking out the door. If it looks like a perfect cauliflower, pull at the edges a bit. Randomness is the goal.
Why Your Pocket Square Shouldn't Match Your Tie
Here is the biggest mistake men make. They go to a department store and buy those "matching set" boxes where the tie and the pocket square are made of the exact same fabric.
Stop. Don't do that.
It looks cheap. It looks like you bought a costume. A pocket square should coordinate, not match. If your tie has a hint of burgundy in the pattern, maybe pick a solid burgundy square. Or a white square with a burgundy edge. You want to complement the colors, not mirror them.
Alan Flusser, the author of Dressing the Man, has talked extensively about this. The idea is to create "visual harmony." If your tie is a bold, large-scale stripe, go for a small-scale pattern on the square, like a pin-dot or a solid. Mixing scales prevents the eye from getting overwhelmed.
The Multi-Point Fold for the Bold
Sometimes you want to show off. Maybe it's a wedding. Maybe you're feeling yourself. The "Two-Point" or "Three-Point" fold is how you get those sharp peaks sticking out of the pocket.
- Fold the square diagonally to create a triangle.
- Shift one layer slightly to the side so you see two distinct peaks at the top.
- Fold the sides inward to match the width of your pocket.
- Tuck the bottom up so it doesn't bunch at the base.
It’s geometric. It’s aggressive. It works best with starched cotton or linen because the peaks will actually stay upright instead of wilting like a sad flower.
Cotton, Linen, or Silk?
Material matters. Seriously.
Linen is the workhorse. It’s crisp. It stays put. A white linen pocket square is the "white t-shirt" of tailoring—it goes with literally everything. If you only own one, make it white linen.
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Silk is for the evening. It’s for when you want a pop of color or a bit of luster. But be warned: silk moves. You will likely find yourself adjusting it in the bathroom mirror every hour.
Cotton is the middle ground. It’s casual. It’s great for tweed jackets or more rugged blazers. It feels less "precious" than silk.
The "One-Inch Rule" and Placement
How much should stick out? Generally, about an inch. If you have three inches of fabric billowing out of your chest, you look like a magician. If you only have a tiny sliver, people will think it’s a mistake.
Also, pay attention to the angle. For the Flat Fold, keep it parallel to the pocket opening. For puffs or points, let them lean slightly toward your shoulder. It draws the eye upward toward your face, which is the whole point of wearing a suit in the first place.
Avoid These Common Blunders
People often forget that the pocket square is an accessory, not the main event.
- Weight issues: Don't use a heavy wool scarf as a pocket square. It will bloat your chest and make your jacket hang weirdly.
- The "Vanishing Act": If your square keeps sinking, it’s likely too small. High-quality squares are usually 16x16 inches or 17x17 inches. The cheap ones are often 10x10, which is barely enough fabric to stay upright.
- Dirty fabric: If you use it to blow your nose, it's no longer a pocket square. It’s a handkerchief. Those are two different things. Keep one in your back pocket for utility and one in your chest for show.
How to Put a Pocket Square in a Suit: A Step-by-Step for the "Scallop"
This is a niche fold that looks incredibly sophisticated but is actually quite easy. It’s a variation of the puff.
Start by folding the square into a triangle. Hold the long edge (the fold) and grab the two corners. Bring them toward the center, but overlap them slightly. This creates a series of curves or "scallops" at the top. Tuck the bottom in. It looks like waves of fabric. It’s a great way to show off a square that has a contrast border.
Practical Next Steps
Go to your closet and grab a suit jacket. Don't wait for an event.
First, check if the breast pocket is still sewn shut. Most new suits come with "tack stitching" to keep the pocket flat during shipping. Take a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper and carefully snip those threads. Be gentle. Don't cut the actual suit fabric.
Once the pocket is open, practice the Puff Fold with a silk scarf or even a bandana just to get the feel of the volume. Then, invest in a high-quality white linen square with a hand-rolled edge. The "hand-rolled" part is key—it creates a slightly irregular, bumpy rim that looks much more expensive and artisanal than a flat, machine-stitched edge.
Wear it tomorrow. Not just to a wedding, but to the office or a dinner date. The more you wear one, the less you'll feel like you're playing dress-up. Eventually, you won't even need a mirror to tuck it in. You’ll just stuff it in, give it a quick tug, and walk out the door looking better than 90% of the room.