Most people think Solitaire is a lonely game. It’s right there in the name, isn't it? Solitaire. One person, one deck, and a growing sense of frustration as you realize that seven of spades is buried under a king you can't move. But honestly, the head-to-head version—usually called Double Solitaire—is one of the most underrated competitive card games ever invented. It’s fast. It’s frantic. It's basically Klondike on espresso.
If you’ve ever sat across from someone and tried to play, you probably realized pretty quickly that the standard rules feel a bit "loose" once a second person is involved. Do you share the middle? Can you steal their cards? Most people get the basics wrong because they try to play two separate games side-by-side. That’s just boring. To really learn how to play double solitaire, you have to embrace the chaos of a shared foundation.
The Setup: Two Decks, Two People, One Table
First off, you need two distinct decks of cards. Don't try to mix them together into one big pile; that’s a nightmare to sort out later. You want the backs to be different—think one red deck and one blue deck—so when the game ends, you actually know who won the points.
Each player sets up their own standard Klondike board. You know the drill: seven piles, the first one has one card, the second has two (one up, one down), all the way to the seventh pile. You’ve each got your own draw pile (the stock) and your own waste pile. But here is the kicker: the space between you is the "battleground." This is where the foundation piles—the ones starting with Aces—are built.
In a normal game, you have four foundation piles. In Double Solitaire, there are potentially eight. However, you aren't restricted to "your" four. If you see an Ace of Hearts hit the table, it doesn't matter if it came from your deck or your opponent's; anyone can build on it.
Why the Shared Foundation Changes Everything
This is where the strategy shifts from "puzzle solving" to "racing." If I have a 2 of Spades in my hand and I see my opponent play the Ace of Spades, I need to get my card down before they drop their own 2. Once a card is on the foundation, it’s gone. It’s a point for the person who played it.
The Flow of the Game
You both start at the same time. There’s no "taking turns" in the most popular version of this game. It’s simultaneous play.
- The Flip: You both start churning through your tableau, moving cards around just like regular Solitaire.
- The Shared Middle: As soon as an Ace is available, you slap it into the center.
- The Race: If there is a 3 of Diamonds in the middle, and both players have a 4 of Diamonds ready to play, the faster hand wins.
This creates a weird tension. Sometimes, you’ll hold onto a card intentionally. You might have the 5 of Clubs, but you know playing it will allow your opponent to play the 6 of Clubs they’ve been sitting on. It becomes a game of chicken. Do you progress your own board and risk helping them, or do you wait?
Honestly, waiting usually loses you the game. Speed is king.
How to Play Double Solitaire with "Turn-Based" Rules
Now, if the frantic "slap-jack" style of play gives you a headache, there is a turn-based variant. It’s more civilized. More "British tea time" than "Thunderdome."
In this version, Player A makes all the moves they can. Once they hit a wall and have to flip from their stock pile, their turn ends (or some play where the turn ends only when they can't make any move, including the stock flip). Then Player B goes. This version is much more tactical. You can see exactly what the other person is trying to do, and you can actively block them.
If you’re playing the turn-based version, the foundation piles are still shared. This is the "mean" way to play. You can see your opponent needs that Red 7 to move their Black 8, so you intentionally play the Red 7 to the foundation just to mess with their tableau. It’s petty. It’s brilliant.
Scoring: Who Actually Won?
You can’t just "finish" and call it a day. Since there are two decks, you count the cards in the foundation piles at the end. This is why different colored backs are vital.
- Each card you got into the center counts as +1 point.
- Each card left in your tableau or hand counts as -1 (or -2 if you want to be "Vegas Style" about it).
Usually, the first person to reach 100 or 500 points over several rounds is the winner. According to the Hoyle’s Rules of Games, which is basically the Bible for this stuff, the scoring can be adjusted based on how "hardcore" you want to be. Some people don't penalize the cards left in the hand, but where's the fun in that? You need the stakes.
The Strategy Nobody Talks About
Most beginners focus too much on their own piles. Big mistake. You need to keep one eye on your opponent's waste pile.
If you see they have a high-ranking card they can’t move, try to avoid building the foundation piles that would "free" that card. For example, if they have a Black Queen blocking a huge stack of face-down cards, and you have the King she needs, do not move that King to an empty space unless you absolutely have to.
Managing the Tableau
Keep your columns clear. In Double Solitaire, an empty column is your greatest asset. It’s the only place you can park a King. If you fill all your columns with junk, you’re dead in the water while your opponent clears their board.
The "Waste Pile" Cycle
If you’re playing the "draw three" rule (where you flip three cards at a time from the stock), remember the order. It’s a predictable cycle. Professional players—yes, they exist—memorize the sequence of their deck so they know exactly when that 4 of Hearts is going to come back around.
Common Misconceptions and Rule Disputes
"Can I move cards from the foundation back to my tableau?"
Strictly speaking? No. Once it’s in the middle, it’s points. Pulling it back is usually considered cheating, or at the very least, a "house rule" you need to agree on beforehand.
"What happens if we both get stuck?"
It happens. You both look at each other, both stock piles are exhausted, and nobody can move. In this case, the game ends immediately. You count the points as they lie. If you're playing the competitive version, sometimes you can agree to "reset" the stock piles by shuffling them, but usually, a stalemate is a stalemate.
Essential Equipment for the Best Experience
Don't play this on a tiny coffee table. You will bang knuckles. You will knock over drinks. You need space.
- Two High-Quality Decks: Brands like Bicycle or Kem are best because they slide well. If the cards are sticky, you can't play fast.
- A Large Surface: A dining table or a felt card mat.
- A Scorekeeper: Use a phone app or just a good old-fashioned notepad.
Actionable Steps for Your First Match
If you're ready to jump in, don't just wing it. Follow this sequence to ensure the game doesn't devolve into an argument:
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- Select two decks with high-contrast backs. (e.g., Red vs. Blue).
- Agree on "Simultaneous" or "Turn-Based" play before the first card is flipped. Most arguments happen because one person starts racing while the other is waiting for their "turn."
- Decide on the Draw Rule. Are you drawing 1 card at a time or 3? Drawing 1 is much easier and faster for beginners.
- Clear the Center. Make sure there is a distinct "No Man's Land" between your two setups for the eight foundation piles.
- Set a Point Goal. Play to 150. It usually takes about three to four rounds and keeps things moving.
Double Solitaire is essentially a test of pattern recognition under pressure. It’s about how well you can manage your own "to-do list" while someone else is actively trying to steal your opportunities. It’s less about luck than the single-player version because you have twice the chances for the cards you need to appear in the center. Get a deck, find a victim, and start flipping.