How to Make Money Crown: The Reality of Selling Dental Gold and Scrap

How to Make Money Crown: The Reality of Selling Dental Gold and Scrap

So, you’ve got a hunk of yellow metal sitting in a drawer, or maybe it’s still in your mouth, and you're wondering about the actual logistics of how to make money crown style. It’s a bit weird, right? Selling part of a human tooth for cash feels like something out of a Dickens novel, but in the modern commodities market, dental gold is actually one of the most consistent ways to get a high payout for "junk" jewelry.

Gold is hovering at record highs. When the spot price of gold climbs, the value of that old bridge or PFM (porcelain-fused-to-metal) crown your dentist handed you in a little plastic bag goes up with it. But here is the thing: it’s not just a matter of walking into a pawn shop and getting a stack of bills. Most people get ripped off because they don't understand what they actually have.

What is a Dental Crown Actually Worth?

You aren't selling a coin. You're selling an alloy.

Dentists don't use 24k gold. It's too soft. If they did, you’d deform your crown just by eating a bagel. Instead, dental gold is usually a mix of gold, silver, copper, and platinum. Generally, "high noble" dental alloys contain at least 60% noble metal, with at least 40% of that being gold.

If you want to know how to make money crown and bridge removals provide, you have to look at the weight. A typical single crown might weigh between 2 and 3 grams. If it's a 16-karat alloy, you're looking at a decent chunk of change, but you have to account for the "refinery spread." Refiners take a cut. They have to melt it down, after all.

Honestly, the porcelain is the enemy here. That white, tooth-colored coating adds weight but has zero value. In fact, some buyers will deduct a "smelting fee" because they have to shatter and separate the porcelain from the metal. If your crown is "full gold" (the shiny metallic ones), you’re in a much better position to negotiate.

The Best Places to Sell Your Dental Gold

Don't go to a "We Buy Gold" kiosk at the mall. Seriously. Just don't.

Those places are designed for convenience, not for profit. They usually offer 30% to 50% of the actual melt value. If you want to maximize how to make money crown assets bring in, you need to go as close to the source as possible.

Direct-to-Refiner Sales

Refineries like Garfield Refining or Arch Enterprises have been around for decades. They specialize in dental scrap. Why does this matter? Because they have the specialized equipment to assay—basically a fancy word for testing—the specific mix of metals in dental work. They'll give you a report showing exactly how much gold, silver, and palladium was in your scrap.

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Local Coin Shops

A reputable local coin shop is often better than a pawn shop. These guys deal with gold bullion all day. They’ll usually test your crown with a localized XRF (X-ray fluorescence) gun. It’s a cool piece of tech that tells them the elemental breakdown in seconds. You’ll likely get 70% to 80% of the spot price here, which is a fair deal for an instant cash payout.

Why Your Dentist Might Try to Keep It

This is a point of contention in many dental offices. When a dentist replaces an old gold bridge, that metal belongs to you. It’s your property.

However, many patients are too embarrassed or grossed out to ask for it. Dentists know this. Some offices have a "scrap jar" where they collect old crowns to fund the office Christmas party or buy new equipment. There’s nothing inherently illegal about this if the patient abandons the material, but if you want to know how to make money crown flipping, you must be the one to walk out the door with it.

Ask for it. Simply say, "I’d like to keep the old bridge." They’ll usually sterilize it for you and put it in a bag. If they refuse, that’s a massive red flag.

The Math: Calculating Your Potential Payout

Let's get into the weeds for a second. Let's say you have a bridge that weighs 10 grams.

If it's a high-noble alloy, maybe it’s 58% gold.
$10g \times 0.58 = 5.8g$ of pure gold.

If gold is trading at $70 per gram, the raw gold value is $406.
But wait.
There’s also silver and palladium in there. Maybe another $30 worth.
Total raw value: $436.

A refiner might take a 10% to 15% fee.
Your check: roughly $370.

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Compare that to a pawn shop that might just look at it, guess it's "10k quality," and offer you $150. You just "lost" over $200 by being impatient.

Common Misconceptions About Dental Scrap

People think every "silver-colored" crown is worthless. That is a huge mistake.

While many silver-colored crowns are base metal (nickel or chrome), many are actually "White Gold" or have high palladium content. Palladium is incredibly valuable—sometimes even rivaling gold prices. Never toss a silver-colored dental piece without getting it tested.

Also, don't try to clean it yourself. Don't try to melt it in your garage with a blowtorch. You will lose metal in the process through oxidation or by accidentally splashing it. Keep it as-is. The refiner doesn't care if there's a bit of cement or tooth structure left on it; they're going to vaporize all that anyway in the furnace.

Practical Steps to Cash Out

If you're ready to actually do this, follow a logical path. Don't rush.

First, get a digital scale that measures in 0.01g increments. You can find them for twenty bucks online. Knowing the exact weight prevents anyone from pulling a fast one on you.

Second, call around. Ask local gold buyers, "What percentage of spot do you pay for dental scrap?" If they won't give you a straight answer over the phone, move on.

Third, if you have more than an ounce of material, use a mail-in refiner. It takes longer—usually one to two weeks—but the payout is significantly higher. They’ll send you a prepaid, insured mailer. Take photos of your items on the scale before you seal the envelope. It's just basic insurance for your own peace of mind.

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Assessing the Value of Non-Gold Crowns

Not everything is a payday. If you have a PFM crown where the porcelain is chipped and you see a dark, dull grey metal underneath, it might be a base metal alloy. These are mostly nickel, cobalt, and chromium.

They are basically worthless to a refiner.

You can check this with a strong magnet. While gold and silver aren't magnetic, some base metal alloys used in dentistry aren't either, so it’s not a perfect test. But if it is magnetic? It's definitely junk.

The real money is in the yellow stuff. "How to make money crown" searches usually spike when the economy gets shaky and people start looking in their jewelry boxes. If you’ve got a "full gold" molar that was put in back in the 80s or 90s, you’re likely sitting on the highest quality alloy used in dental history. Back then, gold was cheap, and dentists used high-karat mixes because they were easy to cast.

Important Things to Remember

  • Purity Varies: Every crown is a different "recipe." One might be 40% gold, another 75%.
  • Weight is King: Use a precise scale.
  • Avoid Middlemen: Pawn shops are middlemen. Mall kiosks are middlemen.
  • Documentation: Always get a receipt or an assay report.

Making money from dental scrap isn't a "get rich quick" scheme. It’s a "get what you're owed" realization. Most of the time, this metal is just sitting in a landfill because people don't realize its value.

To wrap this up and get you moving, the most effective way to handle this is to gather all your scrap, weigh it together, and ship it to a dedicated precious metals refinery. This ensures you get paid for the silver and palladium that local shops usually ignore. Check the current London Fix price for gold before you sell so you know the baseline. If you're selling locally, ask for at least 70% of that value. Anything less is a bad deal.

The most important step is simply asking your dentist for the metal back. It’s your gold. You paid for it when the crown was made, and you should get the value back when it's retired. Clean it with a bit of bleach and water, dry it off, and keep it in a secure spot until you have enough to make the refining fee worth it. Most refiners have a minimum, so waiting until you have a few pieces is usually the smartest play.