Shakshuka is a lie. Well, the version you usually see on Instagram is. You know the one: perfectly poached eggs sitting atop a vibrant, neon-red sauce that looks like it was painted on the pan. If you've ever tried to recreate that at home following a generic recipe, you probably ended up with something watery, or worse, eggs with rubbery whites and chalky yolks. It’s frustrating.
The truth is that learning how to make a shakshuka isn't about following a rigid set of measurements. It is about moisture management and heat control. This dish, which likely traveled from Ottoman North Africa (Tunisia is the most cited origin) to Israel and eventually to every brunch menu in Manhattan, is peasant food at its heart. It’s supposed to be messy, spicy, and deeply savory. But "messy" shouldn't mean "bland tomato water."
Stop Using Thin Canned Tomatoes
Most people grab a can of crushed tomatoes and call it a day. That is mistake number one. Crushed tomatoes vary wildly in water content by brand. If you use a cheap can, you’re basically boiling your eggs in tomato juice. You want whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes. Why? Because you can control the texture. You crush them with your hands or a wooden spoon right in the pan. This leaves chunks that hold their shape and creates a sauce with "body" rather than a uniform puree.
Some chefs, like Yotam Ottolenghi, whose recipe in Jerusalem basically sparked the global shakshuka craze, emphasize the importance of the pepper-to-tomato ratio. You need a lot of peppers. Like, more than you think. Red bell peppers provide the sweetness that balances the acidity of the tomatoes. If you skip the long sauté on the peppers, your sauce will never develop that jammy, concentrated flavor that makes a shakshuka legendary.
The Secret is the Soffritto
Don't rush the onions. Honestly, just don't. You need to sweat them down with the peppers until they are translucent and starting to caramelize at the edges. This takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Most recipes tell you five minutes. Those recipes are wrong.
While the vegetables soften, throw in your spices. We're talking cumin, paprika (smoked or sweet, your call), and maybe some caraway seeds if you want to be authentic to the Tunisian roots. Toasting the spices in the oil before adding the liquid "blooms" the flavor. It changes the profile from raw and harsh to earthy and integrated. If you add spices after the tomatoes, they just float on top. They never truly wake up.
The Egg Anxiety: How to Get Them Right
The biggest hurdle in how to make a shakshuka is the eggs. It is a high-stakes game. You want the whites set so they aren't slimy, but the yolks must be liquid gold. If you overcook them by even sixty seconds, the magic is gone.
Here is the pro move: make deep wells in the sauce. Don't just crack the egg on top. Use a large spoon to push the sauce aside until you can see the bottom of the pan. Drop the egg into that hole. This ensures the egg is surrounded by heat from all sides.
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- Tip 1: Crack each egg into a small ramekin first. This prevents shells from falling into the hot lava and lets you slide the egg in gently so the yolk doesn't break.
- Cover the pan. This is controversial for some purists, but it's the only way to ensure the tops of the whites cook.
- Check it constantly. Shake the pan. If the whites jiggle like jelly, they need more time. If they are firm but the yolk still ripples, pull it off the heat immediately. Carry-over cooking is real. The cast iron pan will keep cooking those eggs even on the table.
Should You Use Feta?
Purists might argue, but the saltiness of feta or a dollop of labneh provides a necessary contrast to the heavy spice. It cuts through the richness. Sprinkle it on at the very end. If you put it in too early, it just melts into a white streak and loses its character.
Beyond the Basics: Regional Variations
While the tomato-based version is king, "green shakshuka" has gained a massive following. Instead of tomatoes, you use a base of sautéed spinach, leeks, and scallions. It’s lighter. It’s also much harder to get right because greens release so much water. You have to cook that moisture out completely before adding the eggs.
In North Africa, specifically Libya, you might find shakshuka with dried meat like qadid. It adds a funky, salty depth that you just can't get from vegetables alone. If you want to mimic that without hunting down specialized cured meats, try adding a bit of spicy chorizo or even some diced pancetta at the beginning of the process. It’s not traditional, but it’s delicious.
Why Your Sauce is Bitter
If your shakshuka tastes "off" or metallic, it’s usually one of two things:
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- Under-cooked tomato paste: If you use paste, you have to fry it in the oil until it turns a dark brick red. This removes the "tinny" flavor.
- Acidity imbalance: Some tomatoes are just too tart. Add a pinch of sugar. Just a pinch. It doesn't make it a dessert; it just rounds off the sharp edges.
The Tooling Matters
You need a heavy skillet. Cast iron is the gold standard here. It retains heat better than stainless steel or non-stick, which means once you drop those eggs in, the temperature doesn't plummet. Plus, there is something deeply satisfying about serving a bubbling red sauce in a seasoned black pan in the middle of a wooden table. It looks like a feast. It feels like a feast.
Bread is Not Optional
You cannot eat this with a fork. It’s impossible. Or rather, it’s an insult. You need a vehicle for the sauce. Challah is the traditional choice in many Jewish households because it’s airy and soaks up the liquid like a sponge. Sourdough works too, provided it’s toasted enough to stand up to the weight of the sauce.
Finalizing the Process
Once you've mastered the base, the variations are endless. I've seen people add chickpeas for protein or even kale for some bitterness. But don't lose the plot. The star is the egg and the sauce.
When you are figuring out how to make a shakshuka for guests, remember that timing is everything. Don't start the eggs until the guests are actually sitting down. It takes five to seven minutes for the eggs to poach, and those are the most critical minutes of the entire morning. If you get distracted by making coffee or chatting, you'll end up with hard-boiled eggs in tomato soup.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Brunch:
- Source the right tomatoes: Look for San Marzano or a high-quality Italian brand. Avoid the bargain bin here.
- Patience with the peppers: Sauté the onions and peppers for a full 15 minutes before adding anything else.
- Bloom your spices: Cumin and paprika need to hit the hot oil directly for 30 seconds to release their oils.
- The Ramekin Trick: Crack eggs into a bowl first to avoid breakage and shells.
- Residual Heat: Pull the pan off the stove when the eggs are almost done. They will finish at the table.
- Fresh Herbs: Never skip the fresh cilantro or parsley at the end. It adds a "brightness" that dried herbs can't touch.
Shakshuka is a forgiving dish, but it demands respect for the ingredients. If you treat the vegetables with patience and the eggs with vigilance, you’ll never go back to those overpriced brunch spots again. You’ll have something better right in your own kitchen.