You’re probably here because you’re bored with just solving the thing. Or maybe you’ve got a cheap, crunchy cube that feels like it’s filled with sand and you want to know if you can actually build a better one from scratch. Let’s get one thing straight: when people talk about how to make a Rubix cube, they usually mean one of three things. They’re either trying to 3D print a custom mechanism, assembly a high-end speedcube kit, or they’re literally trying to cast plastic parts in a basement.
It’s a rabbit hole.
The Rubik’s Cube—officially spelled with a 'k' but we know everyone types it with an 'x'—is a marvel of engineering. Erno Rubik didn’t even know if his invention could be solved when he first built it out of wood and rubber bands in 1974. He was an architect, not a toy maker. He spent a month just trying to figure out how to get it back to its original state. Today, you can buy a GAN cube for $80 that feels like it’s floating on magnets, but there is something deeply satisfying about making your own.
The Core Problem: Why Most DIY Cubes Fail
The mechanism is the heart. If you just glue six squares together, you’ve got a block of wood. The magic is in the "spider" or the core. This is a three-dimensional cross that holds the center pieces in place.
Most people fail because they underestimate the friction.
If your tolerances are off by even half a millimeter, the cube will catch. It’ll "pop"—which is cubing lingo for the pieces flying across the room during a turn. Professional cubes use a complex system of tracks and rounded internal edges to prevent this. If you’re making one, you have to decide: are you going for a "core-and-stalk" design or a modern "spherical core" setup?
Gathering Your Materials
Don’t just run to the hardware store yet. You need a plan.
If you’re going the 3D printing route, PLA is fine for a prototype, but PETG or ABS is better for the long haul because they handle friction better. You'll also need six springs. Don't skip the springs. They provide the "tension" that allows the layers to pull apart slightly when you're corner-cutting. You’ll also need M3 screws, washers, and a set of stickers. Or, if you’re fancy, you can try "stickerless" by printing the parts in colored filaments.
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Here is a rough list of what’s sitting on a pro builder's workbench:
- A high-quality 3D printer (think Prusa or Bambu Lab levels of precision)
- Silicon-based lubricant (Weight 1 or Weight 5)
- Sandpaper (400 grit up to 2000 grit for that buttery finish)
- A set of precision screwdrivers
- Digital calipers (because "eyeballing it" is a recipe for disaster)
Printing and Prepping the Pieces
You need 26 pieces plus the core. That’s 8 corners, 12 edges, and 6 centers.
The core is the hardest part to print. It needs to be incredibly strong because it bears all the tension of the springs. I’ve seen people try to print it vertically, and it just snaps along the layer lines. Print it with a high infill—at least 50%—or, better yet, buy a nylon core from a specialized shop.
Once the pieces are off the bed, the real work starts.
Sand everything. Every internal surface that touches another piece needs to be smooth. If you leave the 3D printing "steps" on the internal tracks, the cube will feel like it’s grinding coffee. You start with the heavy grit and work your way up. It’s tedious. It’s messy. But it’s the difference between a desk toy and a speedcube.
The Secret of Magnetization
If you want to know how to make a Rubix cube feel premium, you add magnets.
Modern speedcubing changed forever around 2016 when people started gluing tiny Neodymium magnets (usually 4x2mm N35 grade) into the edges and corners. These magnets pull the layers into alignment. It’s like having "snap-to-grid" for a physical object. You’ll need 48 magnets in total. 24 for the edges and 24 for the corners.
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Make sure the polarities are correct. If you glue one magnet in backward, that specific turn will repel itself. You’ll have to dig the magnet out with a hobby knife, and it’s a nightmare. Trust me. Use a "master" piece to check the polarity of every single magnet before the glue dries.
Assembly: Putting the Puzzle Together
Start with the core. Screw in the six center pieces.
You want the tension to be even. A good trick is to tighten the screws all the way down and then back them off by a specific number of half-turns—say, four or five. This ensures the cube is symmetrical. If one side is tighter than the others, the cube will warp and solve inconsistently.
Once the centers are on, start with the bottom cross. Slot in four edges around the white center (or whatever color you pick for the bottom). Then, slide in the four corners. Now you have the first layer.
The middle layer is just four edges. Slide them in from the top.
The final layer is the "boss fight" of assembly. You have to twist the top layer 45 degrees to pop the last edge piece in. Be careful. This is when most DIY cores snap. If it feels too tight, loosen the screws.
Lubrication and Breaking In
A dry cube is a dead cube.
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You need silicone lube. Don't use WD-40. Seriously, don't. WD-40 is a solvent; it will literally melt the plastic over time and turn your hard work into a gooey mess. Use something like Maru Lube or a heavy silicone oil.
Apply a few drops to the internal tracks. Now, solve it. A lot.
You need to "break in" the plastic. As the pieces rub against each other, they’ll create a fine plastic dust. This is actually good—it’s the cube self-polishing its own tracks. After about 100 solves, wipe the cube down and re-apply a fresh drop of lube.
Why Bother?
Honestly, buying a $10 MoYu cube will give you a better performing puzzle than most DIY projects. But that's not the point. When you build it, you understand the geometry. You understand why a "G-perm" feels different on a loose cube versus a tight one. You appreciate the math of the 43 quintillion possible positions because you’ve held the physical guts of the thing in your hands.
There’s also the modding community. People like Tony Fisher have been making "puzzle mods" for decades, turning standard cubes into towers, hexagons, or nightmare-inducing shape-shifters. Learning how to make a Rubix cube is just the first step into a much larger world of mechanical puzzles.
Critical Tuning Steps
- Tensioning: Check the "gap" when you pull a center piece away from the core. It should be identical on all six sides.
- Corner Cutting: A well-made DIY cube should be able to turn even if the top layer is misaligned by about 30 degrees.
- Spring Noise: If the cube squeaks, put a tiny dab of heavy grease on the ends of the springs where they touch the screw head.
Taking the Next Step
If you’ve successfully built your first cube, the next logical move is to experiment with different core designs. Look into "TPC" (Thermoplastic Copolyester) for parts that need more flexibility, or try your hand at "void" cubes that have no center core at all.
Start by downloading a proven .STL file from sites like Thingiverse or Printables rather than designing your own mechanism from scratch. Look for the "CUBED" project or similar open-source designs. These have already figured out the complex internal curves that prevent the pieces from falling out. Once you've printed and assembled a standard 3x3, try scaling the parts to create a "mini" or a "giant" version. Just remember that as you scale up, the weight of the pieces increases cubically, meaning you'll need much stronger springs to keep a giant cube from collapsing under its own gravity.
Finish your build by applying high-quality vinyl stickers. Use a transfer tape to ensure the stickers are perfectly centered on the faces. A crooked sticker is the quickest way to make a masterpiece look like a 5th-grade science project.