Let’s be real: living in a tiny apartment is basically a high-stakes game of Tetris where the loser has to sleep on a couch that smells like old popcorn. You want space. You want a home office that doesn't feel like a bedroom, but you also actually need to sleep somewhere at night. This is exactly why figuring out how to make a murphy wall bed has become the ultimate DIY rite of passage for the space-starved.
It’s honestly kind of a terrifying project at first glance. You’re essentially building a heavy wooden box that hinges on a wall, and if you mess up the tension, that thing becomes a very expensive vertical catapult. But it doesn't have to be that way. I’ve seen people spend $3,000 on a pre-built Italian unit, and I’ve seen people build one for $400 using hardware kits from companies like Rockler or Create-A-Bed. Both sleep the same. One just leaves you with enough money to actually afford rent.
Why You Shouldn't Just Wing It
Look, I love a good "freestyle" woodworking project as much as the next guy, but a Murphy bed is not a birdhouse. It’s a mechanical system. If the pivot point is off by even half an inch, the bed won't close flush, or worse, it’ll rack the frame every time you pull it down.
Most people think they can just throw some heavy-duty door hinges on a plywood platform and call it a day. Please, for the love of your drywall, don't do that. Real Murphy beds use either torsion springs or gas pistons. Gas pistons are generally the way to go for DIYers because they’re quieter and a bit more forgiving if your wood frame ends up being slightly heavier than planned. Lori Wall Beds offers a "hardware-free" version that uses a rocker system, which is cool, but it requires a bit more physical strength to lift because you don't have those pistons doing the heavy lifting for you.
The Math of the Mattress
You’ve got to pick your mattress before you cut a single piece of wood. Seriously. Most Murphy bed hardware kits are designed for a standard 10-inch or 12-inch mattress. If you buy a fancy 14-inch pillow-top monster, the bed won't fold into the cabinet. It’ll just awkwardly hover at a 15-degree angle like a door that won't shut. Also, weight matters. A memory foam mattress is way heavier than an innerspring. If the mattress is too light, the pistons will just shove the bed back up toward the ceiling the moment you let go. If it's too heavy, you'll need a gym membership just to go to sleep.
The Core Logistics of the Build
Building the cabinet is basically building a giant bookshelf. You’re going to need 3/4-inch plywood—and don't skimp here. Using cheap construction-grade pine plywood will result in warping that makes the whole thing look like a funhouse mirror within six months. Go for Birch or Maple plywood. It’s stable, it finishes beautifully, and it holds screws without stripping out.
You’ll basically be building two main components:
- The Cabinet: This stays fixed to the wall. It’s the "shell" that hides the bed.
- The Bed Frame (The "Inner"): This is the platform that holds the mattress and moves up and down.
Safety is the big one. You have to anchor the cabinet to the studs. Not the drywall. Not the baseboard. The actual 2x4 or metal studs behind the wall. If you skip this, the first time you pull the bed down, the entire cabinet will come crashing down on top of you. I've seen it happen in "fail" videos, and it’s not as funny when it’s your own bedroom. Use 3-inch cabinet screws and hit at least three studs if you’re doing a Queen-sized build.
Cutting the Wood
If you don't have a table saw, don't panic. You can get the big sheets of plywood broken down at the hardware store, or better yet, use a circular saw with a straight-edge guide. The key is the "face panel." This is the part of the bed you see when it’s closed. A lot of people like to add decorative molding to make it look like a fancy armoire or a set of shaker-style cabinets. It’s an easy way to hide the fact that there’s a giant mattress behind the wall.
What Most People Get Wrong About Murphy Beds
The biggest misconception about how to make a murphy wall bed is that the hardware is the hard part. It’s actually the finishing. Because the bed is such a large vertical surface, any drip in your paint or uneven stain is going to scream at you every time you walk into the room.
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Pro Tip: Sand everything to 220 grit before you assemble. It’s way easier to sand a flat board on a sawhorses than it is to sand inside a giant box once it’s bolted to your wall.
Another thing? The legs. Most DIY kits come with a "swing-over" leg. You have to remember to flip it out before the bed hits the floor. If you forget, you’re putting all that leverage and weight directly onto the hinges and the bottom of the cabinet. It can rip the hardware right out of the wood. Some high-end kits have "auto-deploying" legs, but for a DIY build, you’re likely looking at a manual flip-down. Just make it a habit.
Real-World Materials List
Don't go to the store without a plan. For a standard Queen build, you're usually looking at:
- Three to four sheets of 4x8 3/4" Plywood.
- One sheet of 1/4" Plywood for the backer (if you want one).
- A dedicated Murphy Bed Hardware Kit (Rockler, Create-A-Bed, or Lori Bed).
- Edge banding (to hide those ugly plywood edges).
- A high-quality wood glue like Titebond II.
- Finish of choice (Polyurethane is best for durability).
Building this is a two-person job. You can do the sanding and the edge banding alone, but when it comes time to lift the inner frame into the cabinet and engage those pistons? You need a buddy. Someone to hold the frame steady while you guide the pivot pins into place. Otherwise, you’re looking at a lot of scratched wood and potentially a pinched finger that’ll turn purple faster than you can say "interior design."
Making It Actually Look Good
A raw plywood box looks like a dorm room project. To make it "human-quality" and something you’d actually show off, you need to think about the "surround."
Many experts, like the folks over at The Spruce or DIY influencers who actually live in these spaces, suggest building "flanking" shelves. If you put a narrow bookshelf on either side of the Murphy bed, it suddenly looks like a built-in library instead of a weird wooden monolith. It also gives you a place to put a lamp or a glass of water, which is the #1 complaint people have about Murphy beds—there’s no nightstand.
You can also incorporate LED strip lighting into the header of the cabinet. It creates a nice reading light and adds a bit of "wow" factor when you lower the bed. Just make sure you run the wires before you bolt the cabinet to the wall, or you'll be staring at an ugly cord dangling down the side for the next five years.
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Final Insights for the DIY Journey
If you’re still wondering how to make a murphy wall bed that doesn't look like a middle-school shop project, the secret is in the details. Use a "pre-stitch" or edge-banding tool to get those plywood edges looking like solid lumber. Take the time to fill your screw holes with wood filler and sand them flush.
This project is a marathon, not a sprint. It’ll probably take you a full weekend for the build and another weekend for the finishing and installation. But the first time you tuck that bed away and realize you actually have floor space to do yoga, or put a desk, or just breathe? It’s worth every single splinter.
Actionable Next Steps
- Measure your ceiling height. Most vertical Murphy beds need at least 82-87 inches of clearance. If you have low ceilings, look into a "Horizontal" or "Side-mount" Murphy bed instead.
- Order the hardware kit first. Do not buy the wood until the hardware is in your hands. The instructions vary slightly between brands, and you don't want to have a pile of wood cut to the wrong dimensions.
- Check your mattress thickness. If it’s over 12 inches, you’re either buying a new mattress or looking for a "deep-pocket" Murphy bed kit, which are harder to find and more expensive.
- Find your studs. Buy a reliable stud finder and mark the wall clearly. This is the most important safety step in the entire process.
Building your own furniture is about more than just saving money. It's about knowing that the thing you're sleeping on is solid because you put the screws in. You know exactly how it works, you know it's safe, and you know it's not going to fall apart the first time you roll over. Get the kit, get the wood, and give yourself the gift of an extra 30 square feet of living space. You've earned it.