You probably bought it because someone told you it brings good luck, or maybe you just liked those fat, heart-shaped leaves trailing down a bookshelf. The Epipremnum aureum—most of us just call it a money plant or Pothos—is basically the gateway drug of the houseplant world. It’s supposed to be "unkillable," right? Well, honestly, tell that to the thousands of people staring at a pot of yellowing mush or a vine that’s gone completely bald at the top.
Looking after a money plant isn’t actually hard, but people overthink it. They treat it like a fragile orchid or, worse, like a plastic decoration that doesn't need to eat. If you want those lush, vibrant vines that actually look like the Instagram photos, you’ve gotta stop "smothering" it with love. Neglect is actually a tool here. Use it.
The light situation: Stop putting it in a dark corner
Everyone says money plants love "low light." That’s a half-truth that kills plants.
Sure, it’ll survive in a dim office corner for a while, but it won't thrive. It’ll just exist. If your plant has those beautiful white or yellow splashes—what we call variegation—it needs light to keep them. In the dark, the plant panics. It thinks, "I’m starving," and produces more chlorophyll to catch what little light is left, turning the whole leaf green. You lose the "money" look and get a plain, boring vine.
Aim for bright, indirect light. A north-facing window is usually the sweet spot. If the sun is hitting the leaves directly for six hours a day, they’ll scorch. They get these crispy, paper-brown spots that never go away. On the flip side, if the stems are getting "leggy"—meaning there’s a huge gap between each leaf—your plant is literally reaching for a window. Move it.
The watering mistake that rots everything
I’ve seen more money plants die from "kindness" than from thirst.
The roots need to breathe. If the soil is always swampy, the roots literally suffocate and start to rot. Once root rot sets in, it’s a nightmare to fix. You’ll notice the leaves turning a weird, sickly yellow, and they might feel soft or limp even though the soil is wet.
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Here is the golden rule for how to look after a money plant: Stick your finger in the dirt.
Don't just touch the surface. Shove it in up to the second knuckle. If it feels damp? Leave it alone. If it feels bone dry and the pot feels light when you lift it? Give it a soak. Usually, this happens every 7 to 10 days, but in the winter, you might go three weeks without touching the watering can. The plant will actually tell you when it’s thirsty; the leaves will start to droop slightly. It’s better to wait for that droop than to drown it.
Soil and drainage are not optional
If your pot doesn't have a hole in the bottom, you’re playing a dangerous game.
Water has to go somewhere. If it sits at the bottom of a sealed ceramic pot, it creates a stagnant pool that breeds fungus. If you love a specific decorative pot that doesn't have drainage, keep the plant in a plastic "nursery pot" inside the fancy one. Take it to the sink, water it, let it drain completely, then put it back.
As for soil, don't just grab whatever is cheapest. A standard potting mix is okay, but adding a handful of perlite or orchid bark makes a world of difference. It keeps the soil airy. These plants are epiphytes in the wild—they grow up trees, not in heavy mud. They like their roots to have a little elbow room and some oxygen.
Humidity and the "tropical" myth
People get obsessed with misting. They stand there with a spray bottle every morning like they’re at a spa.
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Honestly? Misting does almost nothing for long-term humidity. It raises the moisture levels for about ten minutes and then it evaporates. Money plants are tough; they handle average household humidity just fine. If your skin feels super dry and your lips are cracking, the plant might be a bit annoyed too. In that case, a pebble tray or a cheap humidifier is way more effective than a spray bottle.
When to feed and when to stop
You don’t need to fertilize a money plant every week. You just don't.
During the growing season—spring and summer—a balanced, liquid fertilizer once a month is plenty. If you overdo it, the salts build up in the soil and burn the roots. It’s like eating too much salty food; the plant gets stressed. When the weather gets cold and the plant stops putting out new leaves, stop the fertilizer. It’s resting. Let it sleep.
Pruning is the secret to a "bushy" plant
This is the part that scares people. They see a long vine and they don't want to lose the length. But if you never prune, you end up with one or two "lonely" vines that look thin and scraggly.
If you snip off a vine, the plant redirects its energy. It usually pushes out two new growth points where you made the cut. This makes the plant look fuller and more expensive. Plus, you can take those cuttings, stick them in a glass of water, and in two weeks, you’ll have roots. Congratulations, you just made a free gift for a friend.
When you cut, make sure you have a "node"—that little brown bump on the stem where the leaf meets the vine. No node, no roots. It’s that simple.
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Dealing with the "uninvited guests"
Even if you’re doing everything right, pests happen. Mealybugs are the worst offenders for money plants. They look like tiny bits of white cotton wool tucked into the corners of the stems. If you see them, don't panic. Take a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol and dab them. It kills them instantly.
Spider mites are the other big one. You’ll see tiny, dusty webs on the underside of the leaves. This usually happens if the air is too dry. A good shower in the bathtub usually knocks them off, but you might need some neem oil if they’re stubborn.
Why are my leaves falling off?
If the old leaves near the soil are turning yellow and falling off one by one, that’s usually just aging. The plant is done with that leaf. It’s fine.
But if five leaves turn yellow at once? Check your water. If the leaves are turning brown and crispy at the edges? Your air is too dry or you’re using water with too much chlorine. If you’re worried about tap water, let it sit out overnight before using it. The chemicals will dissipate, and the water will reach room temperature, which prevents "shocking" the roots.
Actionable Next Steps for a Thriving Money Plant
To move from "surviving" to "thriving," follow these immediate steps:
- The Finger Test: Check the soil moisture right now. If the top two inches are dry, take the plant to the sink and water it until water runs out the bottom.
- Relocate for Light: Move your plant within three feet of a window. Avoid dark corners if you want fast growth and bright colors.
- Dust the Leaves: This is a pro tip. Dust blocks sunlight. Take a damp cloth and gently wipe the leaves once a month so the plant can actually "breathe" and photosynthesize.
- Snip the Ends: If you have a vine that’s looking thin, cut off the last 4 inches. Put that cutting in water and watch the mother plant start to bush out over the next few weeks.
- Check the Pot: If you see roots circling the bottom or poking out of the holes, it’s time to repot. Go only one size larger; a massive pot holds too much water and leads to rot.
By focusing on light and resisting the urge to overwater, you’ve already solved 90% of the problems people face. These plants are resilient for a reason. Give them space, give them a little sun, and they’ll grow faster than you can find places to hang them.