You probably haven’t thought about your shoelaces since you were five years old. It was a milestone then—the bunny ears, the loop-de-loop, the triumph of not tripping over yourself. But once you mastered the knot, you likely stopped looking at the criss-cross pattern sitting on top of your foot. That's a mistake. Most shoes come "factory laced" in a standard over-under pattern that is designed for one thing: looking symmetrical in a cardboard box. It isn’t designed for your specific arch, your wide forefoot, or that annoying heel slip that gives you blisters every time you hike more than three miles.
Learning how to lace shoes correctly is less about fashion and more about biomechanics. It’s the difference between a shoe that feels like an extension of your body and a shoe that feels like a stiff, restrictive cage. Honestly, most people are wearing the right size shoe but the wrong lacing tension.
The Basic Criss-Cross and Why It Fails
The standard criss-cross is what you see on 99% of sneakers. The lace goes from the bottom eyelets and crosses over the tongue to the top. It’s fine. It works. But it creates a lot of "top-down" pressure. If you have a high instep—that bony ridge on the top of your foot—standard lacing can actually compress the nerves and tendons. This leads to numbness. You’ve probably felt it on a long walk. That "pins and needles" sensation? That’s your lacing pattern fighting your anatomy.
Ian Fieggen, widely known as "Ian Shoe-Lace," has documented dozens of ways to thread these strings. His research into the "Ian Knot" and various lacing geometries shows that efficiency matters. For instance, Straight Bar Lacing isn't just for looking clean on a pair of Oxfords. It actually relieves pressure on the upper ridge of the foot because the laces don't cross directly over the sensitive middle area.
Solving the "Heel Slip" with the Runner’s Loop
If your heel moves up and down while you walk, you’re going to get blisters. Period. It doesn't matter how expensive your socks are. To fix this, you need the "Heel Lock" or "Racer's Loop."
Look at the very top of your running shoes. See that extra eyelet that seems slightly out of alignment? It's not a manufacturing error. To do a heel lock, you thread the lace through that final hole on the same side to create a small loop. Then, you take the opposite lace and pull it through that loop. When you tighten it, the shoe cinches around your ankle like a seatbelt. It’s a game changer for hikers and marathoners. It keeps the foot from sliding forward, which also prevents "black toenail"—that lovely condition where your toes slam into the front of the shoe repeatedly.
Lacing for Different Foot Shapes
Not all feet are created equal. Some of us have wide forefeet and narrow heels. Others have flat feet that collapse inward.
If you have a wide forefoot, stop lacing the bottom two or three eyelets. Seriously. Just skip them. Start the lacing process further up the shoe. This allows the toe box to expand naturally. It looks a bit weird, sure, but your pinky toes will thank you. For those with high arches, try "Window Lacing." This involves lacing normally, but when you reach the part of your foot that feels tight or "hot," you run the lace vertically up the side to the next eyelet instead of crossing over. This creates a "window" of space where there is no lace crossing the bone. It's a simple fix for a complex pain.
The Materials Matter More Than You Think
Cotton laces are classic, but they suck for performance. They absorb water, they get heavy, and they stretch out over an hour of wear.
- Polyester: These are the industry standard for a reason. They don't stretch much and they handle friction well.
- Nylon: Very strong, but they tend to come untied easily because they are "slippery."
- Elastic Laces: Often seen in triathlons. Brands like Lock Laces or Hickies allow you to turn any shoe into a slip-on. These are incredible for people with arthritis or those who just hate tying knots, but they don't offer the same lateral support as a static lace.
Flat laces generally stay tied better than round laces. Round laces are more durable and common in work boots, but the surface area contact is lower, so the knot slips more easily. If you're constantly re-tying your boots, swap the round cords for flat ones. It’s a five-dollar fix that saves a lot of frustration.
The "Over-Under" Debate
Check your shoes right now. Is the lace going into the eyelet from the top, or out of the eyelet from underneath?
Standard how to lace shoes wisdom suggests "Under-Over" (lacing from the inside out) is better for comfort because the lace ends up resting on the eyelet tabs rather than directly on the tongue. However, "Over-Under" (outside in) often looks neater and stays tighter during high-impact sports. Professional soccer players often use specific lacing patterns to keep the "strike zone" of the boot flat and predictable. If there's a huge knot or bulky laces right where you kick the ball, your accuracy drops. Some players even tuck their knots into the side of the shoe to keep the top surface clean.
Don't Forget the Tongue
Most shoes have a little loop or slit on the tongue. Use it. It’s there to prevent the tongue from sliding down into the side of the shoe. When the tongue migrates, it creates pressure points and can even cause the shoe to lose its structural integrity. Thread your laces through that loop at the midpoint. It keeps everything centered and balanced.
Actionable Steps for Better Foot Health
Instead of just reading this and going about your day, take five minutes to actually fix your footwear.
💡 You might also like: Philips 5500 Series Fully Automatic Espresso Machine - LatteGo: Why It’s Actually Worth the Upgrade
Identify where your feet hurt. If it's the top of the foot, try the "Window Lacing" method mentioned earlier. If your shoes feel too tight overall, try the Parallel (Bar) Lacing style to give the sides more room to flex. For anyone experiencing heel lift, find that "extra" eyelet and try the Racer's Loop.
You should also check the length of your laces. If you have a giant, floppy bow at the top, you're using laces that are too long for the number of eyelets you have. A standard 5-6 eyelet sneaker usually needs a 45-inch lace. If you have 7-8 eyelets, go for 54 inches. Having the right length ensures the tension is even from top to bottom without excess cord tripping you up or getting caught in bike chains.
Once you’ve re-laced, walk around the house. Don't go for a run immediately. Feel how the pressure has shifted. You’ll notice that how to lace shoes isn't just a chore—it’s a way to customize off-the-shelf gear to fit your unique anatomy. If the tension feels uneven, adjust the laces starting from the toe and work your way up, pulling each segment individually rather than just yanking the ends. This ensures the fit is consistent and supportive across the entire bridge of your foot.